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Manufacturer #: 306508 /
Manufactured by: Whirlpool /
Fix #: FIX1804752
Manufacturer #: 306508 |
Manufactured by: Whirlpool |
Fix #: FIX1804752
Disconnected power supply, removed front panel, removed tub support bracket, removed electrical lines from light and door switch( to have better access to install front guide kit), removed belt, removed drum, removed old rollers, installed new rollers and rest of installation was in reverse order of taking machine apart. In order to install the front guide kit(which I've never done before), I had to watch the installation instructions via you-tube. This was a tremendous aide as the instructions were simple and very adequate.
Were these instructions helpful?
As per the repair videos on the site, I searched the internet for a couple of supplementary videos just to make sure I was doing it correctly. It was was all pretty easy. Expect to vacuum out and clean out the interior of the dryer. Also, to make things easier, disconnect the bulkhead and exterior like in the video, but also keep the top flipped up until reassembling, it'll make it much easier. When reinstalling the belt, remember how the belt is going to go around the pulley, you'll have to do this without sight as the barrel will the way and you won't be able to see what you're doing. It's really not hard but just keep this in mind. Also, as you disassembling, it would help to snap some pictures of where each screw goes and how; reassembly was a tiny bit tricky as I didn't do this.
Very easy. Remove front door. Remove front cover from dryer. Lifting up the drum allows the front cover to come off. Now you can see the two glides that the drum rests on. Drill out the 4 rivets. Install the cork pads and the two blue gliders. Attach with a rivet gun and the four included rivets. Reassamble in the reverse order and you are good to go.
Followed the Video Directions from website. All went as planed. The dryer is running like new now.
Drilled out the old rivets with 1/8" bit, removed rivet remains with side cutters and needle nose plyers. Place new cork and Teflon material in place with the notches facing towards yourself. Secure with new pop rivets. One of the four rivets was 3/16" and needed one bigger pop rivet. I do not know why it was bigger, I never replaced these before. It was still an easy job to do.
The old dilemma is whether to fix a >20y/o dryer, or just buy a new one. With minimal effort, it was easy to find the source of the noise by manually turning the drum. Noise in the front turned out to be the blower wheel which is located right in the front of the dryer. Removing about 6 screws shows the motor shaft wore out the plastic center of the blower wheel and so the blower wheel was not spinning properly and bouncing around in the housing. Typing in the Model # in PartSelect.com gave me the whole diagram and exactly what to order. Since I had the dryer apart anyway, I decided to go ahead and replace the felt seals and drum/motor belt and front glides. Easy instructions to do all of this is available on multiple YouTube videos. The only caveat is some of these items are held in w/ snap rings. It's possible to deal with snap rings using a small screwdriver and pliers but having special snap ring pliers makes this step a whole lot easier. In my case the drum support rollers and belt tensioner roller turned out to be fine and only needed some lubrication. Also, in this particular model, the felt seals are held on w/ sheet metal tabs and do not require the expensive heat resistant glue. All parts installed, dryer back together and works perfectly on the very first try! Saved me a ton of money and the wife is happy, thanks to this site!
Follow the easy video instructions on the website! I pulled off the front cover and door, then the front cover of the drum while propping-up the top cover to get more room to work. Take the drive belt off by compressing the tension roller then slip the entire drum out the front. I drilled out the old rivets on the drum front cover and installed new pads as per the video. I then used a flat blade screw driver to open the metal tabs that hold the felt pads in place and removed the pads (on the front cover and inside the unit on the back cover). Pay attention to how they overlap on the ends because you want it correct so the drum does not rub the wrong way on the overlap as it spins. It spins clockwise as you look at the front of the machine. I used the screw driver to push the tabs back down as I held the felt in place and worked around each one to install it. A large flat blade works really well. When you put the drum back inside, you need to work your fingers (or use the screw driver) to make sure the felt pad is folded over on itself and the drum is seated. I found it helpful to have someone hold the drum up in position so the back pad stays well seated while I was putting the front support cover on and doing the same thing with the front felt pad. I also put the 2 screws in place (finger tight) to help hold the drum while I was making sure the felt pad was seated all the way around the front of the drum. Then I finished putting no the rest of the front cover (not the front panel yet) and then reinstalled the drive belt on the motor and tension roller. This take both hands because you have to reach around on both sides of the hot air vet to do this. Then reinstall the top cover, the front cover and door and your all set. The dryer now drys cloths very quickly like it did when we first bought it over 20 years ago. I had also replaced the drum rollers and the tension roller earlier but if you haven;t done this, i would do them at the same time when you have the drum out of the machine. They are inexpensive and easy to do when it's all apart anyway. It helps to reduce any noisy squeaks and makes it run nice and quiet like it did when new!
Thanks to the website I first looked at parts schematics, then a short video on repair. I ordered the parts I thought I needed and repair was easily done. With front cover off, further inspection was done to foresee any future repairs.
take off door first remove front panel lift top remove tub support and replace glides as instructed replaced now quiet and working great very simple
The only additional step I incorporated was to place a block of wood under the tension pulley arm to hold it in the full off position while installing the drive belt. This was very helpful especially since you are working by feel while threading the drive belt onto the motor pulley and tension pulley. Once they are in place the wood block can be removed to engage the tension pulley. The instruction videos brought out a couple of helpful tips that made the repair successful.
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