MAH21PDD3W Maytag Washer - Instructions

Bought the parts and just inserted them.

Disassembled washer as per directions with seal kit. Removed inner tub. Cut both tub shaft bearing in half; punched out from outter tub. Installed new bearings using .5 inch threaded rod, washer and bolts. Installed new seal on inner tub shaft. Installed inner tube. Re-assembled washer.

Removed the door removed the hinges removed the screws holding the inner door in place removed all the parts under the inner door put everything back together in the opposit order from taking it out replaced the door wala! finished

I removed the rear access panel, used a nut driver and pliers to remove the old hose. I tried to connect the new hose with the spring clamp on the pump end of the hose. I gave up on that after a few attepmts because the clamp was very hard to manipulate with standard pliers. I used a standard screw type hose clamp (2") that I had instead. The tub end was easier because a standard hose clamp was used there already. The washer no longer leaks, and I saved a lot of money by doing the job myself!

Followed instructions that came with replacement part, good as new!

My husband, a mechanical engineer, kept forgetting to take all the brackets out to hold the screws in place and therefore had to take it apart several times to put the brackets in. Difficult time getting some of the parts out of old door to use in new one without breaking them as most were made of plastic. Washing machine works fine now.

Replaced it with the new inner dooor.

My first time attempted to repair washer and step by step video instruction attached with order confirmation did it for me. Thank you

What transpired was removing the guts from the old inner door and putting them onto the new door which extended the time. Not sure about the tools because my handyman/friend did the installation while I was gone. He was a little frustrated with it. Otherwise, the door fit well. We decided that using hot water was the problem with the water leaking from the door. Using cold and warm water settings seems to make a difference.

Replaced the inside door panel. Who needs a Maytag repairman! Thank you for the great instructional video.

I opened the back of the washer, put the isolator in the hole it belongs in. I then inserted the motor pivot pins into the holes, and installed the motor bolt. Installed and tensioned the belt, tightened the motor bolt, and installed the back cover.

Syphon Cup is made one way and just slides into place...very easy

I had pretty much the same experience as others. Difficult parts were 1) removing the inner tub, I used the blunt side of an axe with a 4x4 after several hammers would budge it. 2) removing the old bearing, like others I had to cut them out using a Dremmel with a steel cutting disk from Home Depot ($15) Wear eye protection as sparks are flying! Cut out the inner race and the bearing fell out, then cut V notches in the outer race, trying not to cut into the bearing seats on the tub although I did have a couple small cuts, then hammered it out from opposite side. Installed the new beaings and metal sleave between (what is the sleave for?). I tapped both bearing up against the seat shoulder but with the sleave in between there's not enough room and the new bearings turned real hard as the sleave is binding them. (Minor panic). A couple taps with hammer and chisel on the inner bearing from opposite side to push it out created enough room and the bearings turned real easy. Suggestion; plug the drain opening in the bottom of the outer tub with a towel or sponge to prevent pieces of the old bearing from falling in there. I saw one ball roll down in drain, so I tipped the machine on its side and several balls washed out plus pieces of the old bearing. I had a towel laying over the top but that wasn't enough, needs to be stuffed down in the opening. Re-assembly was easy and the machine runs perfect. The wife is very impressed. Total investment approx $85 (kit, bearings and cutting disk) plus about 8-10 hours vs $800 repair or new machine.

Repair was simpl, took about 3 1/2 hours +. Used on line video for dismantal information & reassembling. Hammered out old bearings and seals. Installed them with big bolt and old bearings, I used the old bearings as pushing tools for new bearings. The large bolt and nut pulled the bearings in to place at the same time. Installed seal and reassembled machine. I moved from Jester to King at home.

The machine had the old style boot drain hose with built-in bellows. The constant flexing of this tube caused a small crack in one of the bellows that gradually increased in size over time, causing water to leak into the bottom front part of the machine. Repair accomplished by removing the door (crosspoint screws), the retangular panel above the apron over the door, the apron above the door (5/16 socket), and the front lower panel (crosspoint screws). Pliers used to open the spring hose clamps, old leaky tube removed (re-use the rubber clearance washer that is on the tube). New tube installed easily, then panels reinstalled. 10 minutes total.