NAH6800AWW Amana Washer - Instructions

It was very easy...we ordered the part and it only took a day and a half and it was here.

Unscrewed old screws, removed old plastic pieces, and replaced

I found the part at PartSelect. I unplugged the power, turned off the water and removed the hoses from the back of the machine. I removed the front loader door by removing the philips head screws on the door hinge. I removed the philips head screws on the frame opposite the hinges. I removed the front. I then took the 4 philips head screws out of the detergent/softener dispenser on the top, and removed those parts. After this, I lifted the lid. At the back of the machine was the blue hot/cold water valve. I loosened the hose clamp with a nut driver on the thermister end, and removed the hose. I then removed the mounting bolt with a nut driver. I installed the new part reversing the order given above.

I am happy when PartSelect included the instruction video, so I completed my repair that easy. Thanks the PartSelect. Davis Dao

I opened the back of the washer, put the isolator in the hole it belongs in. I then inserted the motor pivot pins into the holes, and installed the motor bolt. Installed and tensioned the belt, tightened the motor bolt, and installed the back cover.

The machine had the old style boot drain hose with built-in bellows. The constant flexing of this tube caused a small crack in one of the bellows that gradually increased in size over time, causing water to leak into the bottom front part of the machine. Repair accomplished by removing the door (crosspoint screws), the retangular panel above the apron over the door, the apron above the door (5/16 socket), and the front lower panel (crosspoint screws). Pliers used to open the spring hose clamps, old leaky tube removed (re-use the rubber clearance washer that is on the tube). New tube installed easily, then panels reinstalled. 10 minutes total.

I thought for sure the washer was toast! Thankfully, due to your website it was an easy 26.00 fix. Husband took care of the repair in about a half an hour. He did not encounter any problems with the fix and it's running like a charm!

Purchased the pump from parts select. Maytag wanted 250.00 for the pump!. Followed previous instructions from this site and had no problems. Washer still does not fully drain. Believe the problem is the filter. Maytag either couldnot/would not tell me me where to replace the filter. There is a spare filter taped to the inside of the washer. Maybe it fits inside the tub, above the outlet tube leading to the pump. Will check and see at a later date, unless I see a response on the website. Thanks.

The service representative knew exactly what was needed from the description of the problem that was given to her. The hinges were received within a few days. The door was removed and the hinges were replaced and it does not sag anymore. Thank you for your great service.

removed front of washer. loosened two hose clamps. replaced hose. tightened clamps. replaced front cover.

I watched the provided video that EXCELLENTLY showed the replacement of the part. Then I was able to complete the task with no trouble at all

I lifted the lid, removed the front cover and then twisted the pump in its mount. The pump came out of the mount and i put a pan under it. I unscrewed the two clamps then pulled one end out. Water spewed everywhere and it was a bit of a mess. I pulled out the two wiring harnesses and pulled out the pump. It had a key, a quarter and a nickel in it. I had not seen the key in years! I put the ground wire on the new pump and then the main wiring harness. I put on the power wires but later had to take it back off, so do this later. I then attached and tightened the clamps. I put the pump in the mounts and then twisted it into locked position. Then i put on the power line. I put the cover back on and tested it, all good. I saved a lot of money, about $300 between the initial service call and second trip to install it. I like this washer because it gives you problem codes. It is 14 years old, and this is its second breakdown. First time was the PC board under warranty. No problems for 12 years, which was caused by leaving coins and keys in the pockets of my clothes.

removed the door &the top took the tightener off the bellow took old one out put new one on and clean all parts and put it back together works like a new one love it.

Removed front panels, lifted top to open position, removed back cover, removed drive belt, drum pulley, removed rear bearing snap ring, removed seal clips, removed 3 baffels then the 3 mount bolts. Pulled out spinner support and the inner drum. Removed the rear bearing #6206LL with brass drift rod and heavy hammer (came out with little effort. The front bearing #6207LL I soaked with penatrating oil overnight (this bearing was making all the noise as after 11 years water finally got to it) The next morning I had little trouble removing it with the brass rod and hammer, taking my time to work my way around driving it out. After cleaning everything up, assembly was the reverse, carefully driving in the new bearings. The new lip seal was the most difficult getting started without going in crooked. Time spent was a good 8 hours (it would have been more if the outer drum was removed) and the cost of everything was $167.09. Thanks to Part Select, the spinner support assy came the very next day. The two bearings came from Bearing Supply & Depot Inc. The washer operates like new!! Very Quiet!!

Replaced the belt and motor isolators. Watching your video made it very easy.