Models > NAH6800AWW

NAH6800AWW Amana Washer

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$13.25
Sold individually.
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Also known as the door boot seal. This part includes the drain and plug. The seal is located around the door of the washer to prevent water from leaking.
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This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
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This kit contains a flat drive belt, two motor isolators, and an instructions sheet. The drive belt is made to slip on the pulley until the basket gets up the desired speed.
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$11.10
This hose clamp is sold individually.
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This screw is sold individually.
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This pump helps expel water from the washing machine and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time.
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This water inlet valve attaches the water lines to the back of your appliance. The attaching solenoids on the valve open and close according to the desired temperature, or amount of water needed.
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This hose can handle hot or cold water and is five feet long.
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This high pressure inlet hose washer is black. It is an inch in diameter, made of rubber, and used with many washing machines, refrigerators, and dishwashers.
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$5.36
10 - 16 x .375
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Common Problems and Symptoms for NAH6800AWW

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Leaking
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Will not drain
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Burning smell
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Will not agitate
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Marks left on clothes
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Spins slowly
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No hot or cold water
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Lid or door won’t close
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Customer:
Sirish from Thorndale, PA
Parts Used:
12002533
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Leak from Door boot
My washer was leaking when i opened the front panel to check i found that the water was leaking from door boot which had gashes in it. the task was real easy. and took me 30 minutes to fix it, this was my first time repairing any appliance and i found real easy to do. here are the steps i took:
1. unscrew 2 door screws and the 2 sc rews opposite to them on the other side (on right if you are facing the washer)
2. take door out by lifting it slightly and then pulling it out.
3. hold front panel from both sides and then push in and twist outward this willl diengage front panel from the hooks on side.
4. tilt front panel towards you about 40 deg. adn pull it up.
5. to take top out, first remove all 4 screws from soap dispenser and take the dispenser out (just pull up after unscrewing)
6. unscrew the electrical unit (where bulb is) in front top by taking out the 2 nuts Note: you must take out left most socket/coupler by pulling it before unscrewing the left nut that will give space for your wrench.
7. In the front corner the Top is bolted to side frame bars you will have to look under top corner and you will see 1 nut on each side, unscrew those nuts and the lift the top ( if you have enough space (about a foot) behind the washer the Top ca n actually go all the way back and rest on wall.)
8. from top view you will see a spring and metal wire system holding your boot, notice the spring position, spring has 2 hooks on each side, with needle nose pliers pull on the spring hook and have someone else disengage wire from spring hook. ( when it is time to put the wire back on the new boot just follow the same thing)
9. once wire is out take the boot out by pulling it from all directions. note: you may still have water in the washer system so before you take the boot out be ready with a bucket to catch it write under the boot plug.
10. your boot is still connected to washer withe the plug at the bottom. with help from needle plier press on clamp and pull plug out. note: if you see water flowing out from drain pipe (where the boot plug goes in try to keep it up to lwer the level of water that will stop the water flowing out (i took help from my 6 year old daughter for this job) now your old boot is out, trash it.:)
11. put the new boot the lip of drum and put the wire back on (again i enlisted my wife and my daughter to keep the wire in place, you cannot do it alone. with 3 of us putting wire was a breeze. put the spring back at the exact same place and with exact orientation.
Note: when you start to put wire and new boot on washer drum lip make sure the tiny cuts/slots on the boot slip into the the notches on washer lip other you will have leak from these spaces.
12.now rest is all easy. attach the drain plug back on and then push the tabs of boot into the frontto secure it.
13. put all the thing that you took out in the same order all the way to door and you are ready to go
NOTE: i did not front panel back on for couple of days to make sure there i no other leak and also to make sue that boot is not leaking.

have fun
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Customer:
Stephen from Ft Lauderdale, FL
Parts Used:
22004465, W10181639
Difficulty Level:
Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Bearings between spinner and outer tub replaced
The Neptune stacked washer/dryer maintenance manual was a must-have for this repair.

The washer's sound during spin cycle had changed over time from a jet-engine whine to a low rumble. Inspection from the rear revealed that the seals between the spinner and outer tub had failed, and the bearings had been damaged by water intru sion. The bearings are not a replacement item. They are installed as part of the outer tub assembly, so the whole outer tub must be replaced. This requires almost complete disassembly of the washing machine.

The disassembly was relatively easy with the maintenance manual in hand. I had to use a gear puller to remove the pulley, though. I decided to replace not only the outer tub, but the spinner shaft as well since I believed the shaft may have been damaged when the bearings failed.

Reassembly was not so easy. I installed the outer tub, then wrestled with the heavy counterweights. The lower weight was particularly unwieldy, since I had support it from below while attaching it to the bottom of the tub. I finally used books of different thicknesses to hold the weight in place while locating the screw holes for attachment. The upper weight attached easily after I wrestled it into position. This is a concrete weight of about 25 lbs, I would guess.

The other problem was attaching the outer tub cover with the rubber boot attached. It is held by 12 clips, and it was difficult to seat the cover tight enough to attach the clips. I started at the bottom and worked around, instaling clips as I went. The last 4 clips were the hardest; I had to cinch up the cover with C-clamps before installing the clips.

The rest of the assembly was not difficult.

I had my wife help locate the new tub on the struts in the back and to help support the motor while I hung it on the outer tub. Otherwise, this is a one-man repair.

Total cost around $350, thanks to Partselect.com reasonable prices. I shopped around and they offered the best price snd excellent service.

I spent about 8 hours on this job.
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Customer:
Deborah from Westfield, MA
Parts Used:
WP25001052
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Old Pump Stopped Draining The Machine- Impeller In Pump Wore Out
First- I unplugged and completely drained machine of water by putting hose at ground level near drain . Second- removed back plate to washer saving all hardware. Third- disconnected in and out hose to pump. Twisted pump gently as to pop it out of slots in bottom of machine. Fourth- disconnected wires to old pump hooked to new pump replaced pump, replaced hoses- tested machine then replaced back plate of machine. Done.
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