MLE2000AYW Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Opened a small door in the rear of the washer and loosen the two braces with a screw driver and pulled the old hose and replaced with the new hose replace the door and that was all.

First I removed the door itself from the unit by taking out 2 screws and lifting the door slightly so that the hinges can slide out of their slots. I then preceded to remove the liner assembly from the door. Once all the screws where removed I separated the liner from the door and continued to remove the additional hardware from the damaged liner and transfered it to the new one. I paid close attention to how items were removed but other than the hinges, all other items can only fit one way. The liner was then replaced and the door put back on the unit. Pay close attention to the door hinges, reattaching them wrong won't allow the door to line up or close properly.

Had to move all the concoctions my wife uses on my greasy work clothes [ purple power, dawn dishwash soap,lestoil, etc..] Removed front , removed back panel..Replaced board then motor..Replaced belt while I was in there.I had already changed out the tub bearing assembly earlier..Quite a complex machine when you get in that deep..Runs like new...

Old latch and door striker were pried out with a flat blade screwdriver. New components popped right in. Repair was less than two minutes.

The machine comes quickest appart with a cordless screwgun and a #2 Phillips.

To unhook the wire with spring it is easiest to use a needle nose plier and make a hook from a coat hanger or use a paint can opener.

Pay attention when yo line up the boot with the flange in the back, that the rectagular protrusions line up with the holes in the flange. You may have to stretch the boot a bit and push it all the way in with a dull tool.

Get someone to help you put the wire back on if you want to do it fast and easy. Otherwise hook it on the spring and get the pliers on the loop on the other side and pull it together, torquing the wire back so that it does not make the boot slip fo the flange.

Done

1. Remove 2 screws that hold door hinges on.
2. Remove 2 screws on opposite side of door hinge and remove 2 plastic clips.
3. There are 2 hex screws that hold the front panel on. Remove these and the panel is held on by a flex clip. Gently twist the top towards the outside of the dryer and they will come free.
4. tilt panel forward and lift of 2 clips at the bottom.
5. Remove the screws under the cover panel which will release the drum holder and lint collector.
6. Lift top of dryer and lift out drum.
TAKE THE TIME SINCE THE UNIT IS OPEN TO VACUUM OUT THE ENTIRE DRYER. CLEAN OUT THE EXAUST TO IMPROVE EFFICIENCY AND SAFETY.
7. I replaced the rear felt by using a flat head screwdriver to lift tabs and install felt. Using the screwdrive I compressed the tabs to hold the felt.
8. The baffle was installed inside the drum and using 2 hex bolts to hold the baffle in. I added 2 washers since the hole was inlarged due to the baffle becoming loose and pulling through the metal drum.
9. Re-install the drum and push rear felt to the outside of the drum.
10. The front drum needs to be installed. Push the felt to the outside of the drum and check the rear felt to ensure it is still on the outsid of the drum. Install 4 hex screws to secure front drum holder.
11. Insatall lint catch unit with 4 additional hex screws.
12. Verify the lint collection panel lins up with the exhaust fan at the base. When units line up tighten all 8 hex screws.
13. Reinstall front cover panel by inserting panel on bottom clips and tilt up to the dryer. The top corners are gently twisted to the outside of the dryer to reattach to the spring clips. Use 2 hex screws to attach panel.
14. Re-attach plastic clips and 2 screws on side opposite of door hinges.
15. Re-attach door hinges with 2 screws. Cleck to ensure the door closes.
16. Check dryer operation.

just replaces the pump , the replacement pump was a little different than OE , mounting bracket different but was able to remove housing and bracket from broke pump and put on new pump , all works fine

Okay, first of all, just let me say, if I can do this, ANYONE can. I am not very handy when it comes to things like this. I watched online videos and they will walk you through everything. I am so pleased with the results. Quiet as can be now. Before, we would have to shut the door when it was on because the scretching was so loud! The parts on this site were far more affordable than at my local repair store and they all came right to my doorstep. Overall it took me about 45 minutes and three beers :) Good luck!

Used PartSelect videos to first diagnose the problem which was worn drum felt seal. Then, used the same videos to replace parts, both needed and convenient to replace b/c of already have access.

While the videos were very helpful, first timers should be aware that there are significant knowledge gaps between a professional's easy repair vs an amateur attempting the same.

Removed front cover, removed old heating unit, installed new thermostat,heating coil inside the dryer and finally replaced the fuse in the front. The main complication was reaching the screws for the heating coil, not really complex.

Removed old broken plastic grommet's and installed two new plastic grommet's. Attached new baffle using old screws. Used a short piece of picture frame wire to install the two new grommets by fishing them into place with out removing the washer drum.

it's best to pull off the back of washer then it is too go through the front thats my only hint

took old one out then i had to strip the connector off new one was to big...

Pull off the original knob, pop off the insert part to install into the new outer knob part, replace knob onto metal seating.

What is remarkable is that just after the original warranty expired on this machine I had called out Maytag repair...because the dryer had stopped, and I couldn't figure out why...the knob had broken and I had not realized it, so it turned out it was misaligned. The repairman did not charge for the knob, even though he had to order the part for us. He just sent it to us in the mail. The service call had been $56....now, about two years later, the knob broke again...this time I knew the problem, and saved money! Yay!

After reading all the other repair stories on Partselect, by the way thank you all, I removed the door, then removed the two security hooks that hold the top secure. Then I removed the front panel. I then marked all the screws on the outer door and shroud so I could easily put it back together. I left the all the wires connected and set the shroud and outer door to the side and removed the drum belt and drum. Removed the spring off the idler arm, then using nutdriver, removed the screw that secures the idler arm to the motor. Assembled the new idler arm parts and reversed the process to put it all back together. If I would have replaced the idler arm assembly the same time I replaced the drum support rollers, I wouldn't have had to do this twice! But now I am an expert repair tech on this particular model.