MLE2000AYW Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Removed washer back panel (after unplugging unit). Installed new belt. Reinstalled back panel. Belt wAs very tight getting it to roll onto the drum.

Using a screw driver I removed the 4 screws that hold the front panel and door on allowing me to remove the front panel and door. I removed the spring clamp from the drain hose and removed the drain hose. I removed the 4 screws holding the detergent access door on the top and removed the door alllowing me to tilt the top up and back. Now both sides of the seal were exposed. The front side of the seal is easily pulled loose and the back side is held on with a cable and spring tensioner. The spring and cable slipped of freeing the seal. I installed the back side of the seal paying attention to the alignment "ticks" in the seal and washer. I installed the cable assembly and spring using pliers to pull the spring into place. The front edge was pushed into place. I installed the drain hose and spring clamp, lowered the top into place, installed the detergernt access door with the 4 screws, and installed the front panel and door using the 4 screws. The only trick wwas getting the back edge spring tensioner in place. It took 3 tries over ~ 10 minutes. All other items were very easy. I watched the first load wash to be sure the seal did not come off.

I researched the internet and found my answer on this site. There were others who shared their experiences which made the repair easy. There was a leak in the front gasket between the drum and outer frame. I printed out several answers that customers had posted. I opened the front door on the washer and found a tear in the bottom of the gasket near the drain hole.
To use the washer until the parts arrived (which only took 2 days), I used a bike repair patch to seal the hole in the gasket. NOTE: Don't use the glue type as it may get on the clothing. I used a patch that you pull off the backing and apply. It worked great until I got the parts.
Another party had posted how he got the cable and spring attached on the gasket. He used fishing line. I used masonary string I got from Home Depot. I made a loop on one end and attached it with the spring and pulled both around the gasket after I had positioned it on the back drum. I looped the string over the other end of the spring and pulled. As the spring stretched, I hooked the other end of the cable on the spring. It worked perfectly. Note: Don't worry about the string being underneath the cable, you merely pull it out slowly and the hard part is done. I then hooked the front of the gasket into the slots and finished the job. It took about 40 minutes alone.
P.S. Parts select got my ordered filled and sent to my residence within two days. Great experience and I would not hesitate to order from them again.

Piece of cake. Used flat screwdriver to pry out female part on cabinet side, same with the male part on door. Every new replacement part was tight and operated like new. Thanks Part Select, you'll be forever on my list of online parts buying.

It was very easy to do. I took the back cover off. I dissconected two hoses. disconnected one wire. removed a small plastic bag (cover over wires). turned the pump 1/4 turn.and reversed this process with the new pump. It took me 15 minutes to remove and replace. Put the washer thru a cycle and it worked!

easy remove the front panel it just pops off unscrew the top and lift up. you have a few pieces to remove then press the old rubber out and install new, i had a little trouble lining up the hardest part was putting the cable ban back on with the spring, i needed help from a friend. now the tub seal was not needed but with it apart I went ahead and changed it the clips were hard to snap on,:you need strong fingers to do that! reassemble as you took it apart. washer works fine no leaks, and alot cheaper than a new washer. thanks to parts select for the right parts MICK KEATING

Removed the dryer front, then detached the retainer ring holding the blower wheel in place. Set the new blower wheel, attached the new ring retainer and placed the dryer front back in place. Thank you for the low prices - I searched on-line at 3 sites and you were the best price available.

I replaced the boot seal. I unscrewed and took off the front door and front panel; I unscrewed and removed the detergent compartment; unbolted and lifted up the top panel. I removed the old worn out gasket and replaced the anterior (door side) portion first, then the posterior portion. the door side pushes right in by hand but I used a putty spatula to firmly seat it evenly in place. For ease of closing the spring loaded wire on the posterior portion of the gasket, one person held one end of the wire and gasket in place and a 2nd held the other side in place and pulled the spring with pliers to connect and seal the gasket. replacing the boot seal requires 1 person, but having a 2nd person around to help with the spring was helpful. this was an easy project that takes about an hour.

Taking off the old door and removing the inner door line was relatively easy. I believe I had to remove a total of 8 screws to completely remove the hinges and gain access to the inner panel. Removing the vent tume and grommet was easy, however, I regret not taking a picture of the door latch assembly before removing the vent tube. The door latch is held in by a pair of springs and I had a heck of a time getting the springs back on the door frame assembly. I don't know if I attached it correctly, but the washer locks properly! Attaching the vent tube itself was not that difficult but the same cannot be said of the vent grommet. There was no way to get this grommet in the bottom opening without distorting it or tearing it apart. I finally had to slide it up on the vent tube assembly and basically force it down into the bottom opening. It was not the easiest task to do and I spent more time fiddling about with this stupid grommet than I did with the entire repair. The one thing I would caution anyone doing this repair in the future is to pay close attention to how the speed nuts are installed on the exterior door frame when you go to attach the inner liner. If you do not install them properly you will not be able to attach the inner liner to the exterior door panel.

First I removed front and rear covers and the dispenser screws. If you are carefull you can fold the front cover back and lay it on top of the washer so that you do not have to unplug all the wires. Remove the clips on the front of the outer drum with a small flat blade screwdriver and set aside. Go to the back and roll the belt off the pulley. Remove bolt and snap ring and the pulley should pull toward you off of the shaft. This is plastic be carefull. The inner drum will now pull out thru the front of the machine. Now read the directions again and again about the seal because you have to replace exactly what you take out. This is my only complaint with the directions there needs to be a picture and not an illustration of the placement of the sael and the spacer in my case.

Repair is very simple, all I had to due was remove 4 screws on door and closing side door. Remove door and take off front panel. Then I spun baffle down to right side by motor removing 2 screws , replaced short baffle. the sensor wires are locate right there . Simple disconect of 2 spade wires , 2 srews inside and unit comes out. Please remember to disconnect power and door lifts up maybe 1/2 inch when disconnecting. The baffle worked fine the sensor fixed lights , but did not dry clothes to my satifaction. Good Luck

I troubleshot the repair using the repair help section from Parts Select. It made finding the problem a snap. I then removed the four wires and two screws that held the heating element in place. Removed two screws that held thermal fuse in place and replaced. By accomplishing the repair myself I saved well over a hundred dollars.

Removed one screw and took out old broken door strike, replaced with new door strke and put screw back in. Only took two three days to get the part. The dryer is as good as new!

This was fairly easy, I have had the dryer front off before. Unplug dryer from electrical outlet. Pull dryer away from wall. Remove the dryer door, open dryer door there are 2 phillips screws on dryer door hing, remove these crews then lift gently and remove door, across from these screws, where dryer door closes into face cover of dryer remove 2 more phillips screws. From top of face cover, pull out front of face cover and lift to remove face cover of dryer. On each side of dryer on the front, after removing the front cover is a 5/16 bolt, remove these and pull off retaining bracket with a twisting motion. You now can lift the top of the dryer up. You can now see the barrel drum. Rotate barrel by hand so the broken baffle is on top. Remove two 5/16 bolts, and replace new baffle in place. Reassemble in reverse order of disassemble.

The old sensor came out by removing 2 screws. I unplugged the two wires from the back of the sensor and plugged them into the new sensor. I reinstalled the new sensor using the same two screws. Of course, I unplugged the dryer first.