TFX22PRSBWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

The internal water line was leaking. I could not find any repair parts for my refrigerator but the GE 5/16 water line was the same size. I purchased 6' of tubing and two unions. Make sure the clean and square. If possible, make the cuts in a spot where you can use the pliers and wrench to tighten the union. I cut approximately 2' out of the existing line and replaced it with the same length of new line using the 2 unions, one on each end. Took about 5 minutes.

Unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the panel to the ice/water dispenser. Removed the cover that displays ice type/water and light. Removed the 4 screws holding the cover. Unplugged the wiring harness to the cover which allowed easy access to the two electrical connections to the solenoid.
Removed the three bottem screws holding the solenoid in place. Loosened the top screw ( do not remove completely) and the solenoid slide down. Removed the solenoid arm that hangs on door latch.
Install hang solenoid arm on door latch; slide solenoid up under top screw. Install bottom 3 screws to hold solenoid in place then tighten top screw. Reattach electrical lines to solenoid then plug wiring harness back into cover. Install 4 screws holding panel in place. Re-install two remaining covers.

Performed self test.turned off ice maker switch four 5 minutes.Then turn on switch,within 10 seconds,pushed ice paddle 3 times,with 1 second in between each push.Push all the way back and release. Ice maker should cycle and squirt water. My ice maker did neither.I unplugged cord from fridge.So i replaced the ice maker.After a couple of screws had ice again !

I replaced the control board and the solenoid. This was very simple and easy to do. Make sure the power is disconneted before starting. I then removed the accuator pad and holder. Removed the face plate by simply pulling on it. I then removed the four screws holding the control board unit. I unplugged the unite by pulling the block connector on the left side. I then marked on paper the connections to the solenoid and unplugged it. I removed the three screws holding the solenoid the removed it. When installing the new solenoid make certain the rod to the dispenser is put into the solenoid plunger. Then replace the three screws and plug the wires back in using the connections written down on paper. I then removed the two philips screws on the control unit hold down bracket in order to remove the controll board. After removing the screws and the hold down bracket, I pulled the old board out and put the new one in. I then reinstalled the unit, faceplate, and accuator pad. I then turned the power back on and tested it. Worked like new, saving a lot of money...

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.

Cut out cracked tubing between valve and where tubing enters into refrigerator. Cut new tubing to length and attach to existing using union.

Shut water supply off, removed power plug from wall and removed electrical connector from valve. Unscrewed two plastic nuts which retained lines to old valve. Remove old valve and reinstalled new valve with one screw. Removed inserts from end of lines. (These inserts keep lines from deforming.). Trimmed and chamfered ends of lines reinstalled inserts and installed lines to new valve. Turned on watter, checked for leaks turned power on inserted glass for water received good flow. Ice maker did not receive water. Due to low flow of water to ice tray because of low flow with old valve, ice built up in flexable water delivery tube that goes from back of refrigator to ice tray. Removed tube ran under warm water removed ice blockage reinstall tube all working excelent. This iceing problem took about anouther 15 to 25 min to correct.

removed upper and lower facia strips, exposing the screws holding on the handles. replacinf the metal strips was trickey---they bend easily, and are difficult to get them to snap back in.

I ended up needing to order a new ice maker because the one I had is discontinued. I'm a 65yr old grandma and I did it myself!!!! The hardest part was finding the tool to loosed the nuts. I took the old one out and just put the new one right in it's place. Easy as pie.

My son did it , and showed me what he did when he was finished.

First I shut off the water to the refrigerator and unpluged the electrical cord. Then I unsnapped the cover to the control board assembly located above the ice/water selector knob. Then removed four screws holding the control board assembly. Then I tilted the assembly out far enough to unplug the two sets of wires connected to the control board. Then I removed the two screws holding the control board to the plastic assembly. You are then able to lift the control board out of the assembly. Be careful tilting out the assembly. I pulled too hard and removed the whole thing from the refrigerator which disconnected the ice/water actuator lever and I had some problems getting it re-installed correctly. Installation is basically the reverse of removal. I suggest testing it before snapping back on the final cover plate. I wouldn't recommend trying this repair unless you've done some kind of basic automotive or appliance repair... you can always try it and call a repairman if you get stuck. Good luck!

First I shut off the water supply and disconnected the power to the refrigerator. Remove the two finger tabs that are used to for the light swirch and ice/water by pulling straight down. Remove the cover to the dispenser assembly by pulling it out by hand. I removed the four small phillips head screw in each corner of the assembly. Pull the assembly out just enough to expose the circuit board connectors. Note the color of the wires and their position and location. The connectors are different sizes and should not be confused. Remove the two connector by pull them out straight. You can remove the entie assembly , but pay attention to the the water actuator when the assembly is removed entirely to prevent damage. Place the the dispenser assemby on a solid surface and remove the two screws holding the circuit board in place. Pay attention to the position of the black circuit board retainer be fore removing it. The circuitboard should be removed by pryiing gently on each side until it is released. Reverse the procedure for installation of the circuit board..

Well I Googled the problem to the dual inlet water valve. Luckily I found PartSelect for the correct part and the installation was simple. I now have both the cubes and water working properly from the dispense.

removed panel from front. removed old circuit. Replaced with new. It worked as hoped. Replacement doesn't get any better than that.