Dual Inlet Water Valve

I removed the old dual inlet water valve following the procedure shown in online video. The new valve came with instruction sheet that said to remove the mounting bracket from old valve and attach it to new one. There were a group of line drawings showing how to do this. The drawings made little sense, and there was no way to remove t ... Read more he mounting bracket from my old valve. I removed the white plastic piece from the new valve using my pliers and was able to fit the new valve mounting bracket to my appliance. I installed the replacement dual inlet water valve using the procedure shown in the same video. To my chagrin, the new valve did not solve my problem. I thought maybe I had done something wrong, so I removed and reinstalled the new valve. Same result. I then used an ohmmeter to check the resistance on each of the two valve solenoids for my old valve. The resistance reading on each solenoid was close to what appears on the electrical schematic that came with the refrigerator, i.e., 300 ohms for the water dispenser valve solenoid and 150 ohms for the icemaker valve solenoid. This told me that my old dual inlet water valve probably was not the real cause of my problem and that I had needlessly spent over $40 for a new valve. I analyzed the schematic carefully then and concluded the most likely cause of my problem was a bad connection between the setting on the selector switch labeled "water" and one side of the water valve solenoid. I was not sure how to get access to the switch, but found a online video showing how. At that point I was about to order a control board that sells for over $78 and try replacing that. Before doing so, I decided to do a trial run on getting access to the control board by following the procedure shown in the video. That went o.k., but after I had reinstalled the access panel, I found I had incorrectly installed the lever that operates the pad switch, and I could no longer get ice or water. I took the access panel off and fixed my mistake. I then noticed that the ice delivery system was working again and that, for reasons not then apparent to me, a slow steady drip of water was coming from the water outlet. This had not happened before, even when I tested the new dual inlet water valve and held the pad in for more than 2 minutes. I decided to hold the pad in for a while to see what would happen. To my surprise after just a few seconds the dripping rate began to increase, and within a few minutes the water flowed into the glass I was holding just as fast as it had ever flowed in the past. My water delivery system and ice delivery systems are now operating properly. Although I spent money for a part that I most likely did not need, I really appreciate the videos that this site puts online because they helped me diagnose possible causes and showed me how to locate and gain access to some areas of the appliance that I might otherwise have been reluctant to deal with. If I had this situation to deal with again, knowing what I now know, I would not install a new dual inlet water valve without first removing the old one and checking the resistance values of the two solenoids. Unless the resistance values were very low (suggesting an internal short) or infinitely high (meaning an open circuit inside the solenoid) or there was an actual water leak at the valve, I would assume my old dual water inlet valve was not the cause of my problem, return the replacement valve, and reinstall my old valve. Unfortunately, if you have already installed the new valve before you check the resistance values for the old one with an ohmmeter you will not be able to easily reinstall your old valve, because the tube connections for the old valve are screw on and the new tube connections are push in. In my case, I believe the real cause of my problem was ice formation in the water line running from the water dispenser valve to the dispenser outlet located in the freezer door. Look

1) disconnect electricity..(unplug)
2)turn off water supply 3) remove cover at back of fridge 4) unhook water supply from dual inlet valve (get cup to catch excess water) 5) remove screw from mounting bracket 6) unhook electrical connections from water valve 7) using tubing cutter or razor knife cut tubing for both ice maker and wa ... Read more ter dispenser as close to valve as possible 8) hook up electrical connections in same manner as removal 9) mount new dual inlet water valve using same mounting screw 10) push tubing firmly into place for both ice maker and water dispenser 11) reconnect water supply line 12) turn water supply back on 13) check for leaks 14) reinstall lower cover 15)plug fridge back in 16) Pat self on back..job done.

The valve was not much of a problem. It was the dealing with the mix of metal and plastic water lines in order to get the leaks stopped It very necessary to not get in a hurry and keep checking for leakages.

This is the easy part. I found a friend that had a similar problem with her refrigerator and she replaced the part for me.

I followed the video and did exactly the way the person said and it was a breeze. Unplugged the refrigerator, follow the picture how to fit in there, cut tubing and snapped it in the part, put the water connection on and that was it. Work perfect. I am a woman and it was easy to fix. Only hard thing was moving the refrigerator back thanks ... Read more for the video.

Pulled the refrigerator out from the wall. Unplug the unit. Disconnect the water supply to valve. remove one 5/16 screw holding unit to refrigerator. Disconnect the wire harness from the valve. Cut the plastic hoses inserted into the valve right at the back of the valve. Reinsert the hoses into the new valve, reconnect the wire harness an ... Read more d reattach the unit to the refrigerator. Reconnect the water supply and plug the Refrigerator back to power source, push back up to the wall. I also replace the water filter, (advised), with a charcoal one. The first ice cubes are dark looking so throw them away. The unit is once again making ice.

Pulled out the fridge, unplugged the electrical wire. turned off the water to the fridge. took off the screw to the cover along the bottom of the fridge, pulled back the right side to expose the water valve. With the socket and ratchet I took off the screw holding the Water Valve to the bracket attached to the fridge. I could then pu ... Read more ll the old unit out to remove the water lines using the crescent wrench. I again used the crescent wrench to remove the copper tube - the inlet water line and discarded the Water Valve. Now I began to attach the copper tube water line to the New water valve unit. the two plastic tubes slipped into the holes on the back side of the unit. I put them in ( they are different sizes so you can't get it wrong) pull on them until they grip. there is a little hook which goes on the bracket, then put the screw back in . replace the cover. turn on the water and plug the fridge back in. push it back into place. I gave it an hour then I put in 4 oz of water directly into the ice maker cube tray. 30 minutes later I had ice.

Very little effort. Remove main water supply line. Remove screw that held in part. Remove electric wires from unit. Remove 2 water lines from value. Install new value. Turn water back on. Plug refrigerator back in. Done!! Ice machine filled with water had Ice in 24 hours. Back to normal. Thank You. Chuck

I used youtube and it tell you where and how to find problem

With your website, found the exact part with instructions. Works perfectly.