TPX24BIBABB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Plastic lines were cracked open right at valve and leaking water onto floor. Bad design on GE's part, plastic lines where heat was produced by compressor.

Turned off water supply.

Removed cardboard panel at rear bottom of refrigerator.

Unscrewed copper fill tube clamp.

Took copper fill tube off of valve using 1/2 inch (I think) open end wrench. This used compression fitting.

Removed solenoid by unscrewing one hex-head screws.

Pulled off two electrical connectors.

Trimmed ends of plastic tubes (they were hardened by heat, and will likely leak again.)

Pushed tubed into new solenoid valves (original connection was via some plastic nut and fitting.)

Reattached electrical connectors, using lug adapters (included in package) on one to make up for slightly narrower terminal on new valve.

Reattached copper fill line to valve using original compression fitting. **Had to bend line to make it fit between new lower valve inlet and screw clamp on refrigerator housing.** That was only slightly tricky part of job.

Reattached valve to refrigerator and replaced cardboard panel.

Turned water on and everything worked, and no leaks.

Will likely need to do this again when old stiff lines crack again.

Disconnected the power, removed the unit by removing 1 screw. Disconnected both water hoses and 2 electric connectors. Wasted alot of time trying to follow the directions that came with the valve. DO NOT try to use the old bracket as the instructions state. It does not work. Just use the valve as it arrives. I liked the easy snap in water tube connectors. Saves time. The electric was a snap. Just install the adapters (lugs) that come with the kit and push them on. Then, just bolt the unit back in and that's it. I did also have a problem with the unit making a screeching noise when it dispensed water. I asked Parts Select for a remedy and they suggested I replace the water filter. That solved the noise problem and now it's like new again. Way to go Parts Select! Thanks for the advice and speedy delivery.

Rolled out the frigerator from the wall. Removed the electrical plug from the wall. Turned off the water valve; disconnected the inlet water line at the frigerator. Detached the dual valve assembly from the frigerator; identified and disconnected the outlet water lines and the four electrical lines from the old valve and installed them on to the new valve. Remounted the dual valve assembly on to the frigerator. Turned on the water and checked for leaks. Re-plugged the electric cord in the wall outlet; pushed the refgrigerator back into position. Total elapsed time was about 15 minutes, not counting the time I directed my wife to get me various tools from my work bench and the time it took me remove my 88 year old body from the kitchen floor, back to an upright position. Peeked into the freezer several times over several hours to be certain there were no leaks.

It was very easy replacement. I was sent a different style that allowed for the water tubes to be pushed in compression wise instead of havinf to screw them on. The water was going ok to the cold water in the door but was not functioning for the ice maker. I had already replaced the ice maker unit due to a couple of missing teeth in the turn wheel but still could not get the water to fill. The original problem was created by the missing teeth creating a steady flow of water ultimately all over the floor. It took booth units to fix the problem and now the ice maker works as it should. The valve came with the proper connectors and the toughest part of the job was pulling out the frig. Nice to have something work as described and fit perfectly. A simple nut driver or socket was all that was needed for the entire job.

We pulled out our refrigerator and found the leak coming from a valve that controlled the purified water and ice machine. We shut of the water source at our filter system and then removed the part. Looked online and found the part we needed at a great price. Ordered it and installed it when it arrived 3 days later. Easy install and we now have water and ice coming from our refrigerator again- not to mention a clean floor underneath too.

Turned off water, ordered part based on photo and partial appliance model number (my model number was not listed); removed old part using hand wrench and nutdriver: slid existing retaining nuts up waterlines(left on for furture reuse if needed) and slid lines into "Pex" type connectors and remounted (one screw) valve to refrigerator and turned on water.

Note: From Part ordered to received was less than 36 hours!

loosened connections of lines removed bolt holding valve pulled off wire connections new valve lines just pushed in reconnected wires put bolt back in and thats all there was to it no problems at all

My dog ate the plastic portion of the new part before it was installed.

Removed the hoses and the old valve; numbered the electrical and hose connections on the old wires and valve with a marker to make connection easier;

Had to cut the hose fittings, since the new valve was a simple hose insertion and the old had screw-on fittings.

Installed the new valve. The ice maker works fine. However, the dispenser does not work; apparently there is no signal from the switches to the devices. But at least I have ice.

replaced it with a new updated water valve. It was a bit different however the basics were the same-had great instructions with the valve-box is 21 years old so was a little worried about finding the part--thanks to the internet I found your great ad and info was easy to pull up-schematic sure helped. Now enjoying my Jack Daniels with perfect ice. Thanks a million. Bob Valdepena

After hunting around I found that the inlet water valve was leaking. I turned off the water and ordered a new part from Part Select. It came and I put it in. I had to disconnected the three water lines (one in, two out) and the electrical connections. Keep track of what came from where. I plugged everything back into the new valve. Piece of cake.

Repair work was straight forward except for the change in fittings. The copper water supply line was originally connected to the valve by a flared fitting but the new valve required a ferrule type connection. It was necessary to cut the tubing and to obtain a new nut and ferrule. Likewise the plastic water lines feeding the ice maker and chilled water supply had to be cut so that they could be connected to the "shark bite" type fitting.......no plastic nuts required.

Turn off water supply line. Use Nut Driver to remove bolt holding assembly to the fridge. Disconnect (2) electrical connectors. Use wrench to disconnect water supply line, (NOTE: Since this unit is a universal type replacement, it did not re-mount to the fridge in the same fashion as the old assembly. I had to play with it to determine how to mount the new assembly in order to align & pick-up the existing bolt hole). Snap on the provided electrical connector adapter prongs and reconnect both connectors. Apply teflon tape on threads of water supply line fitting (optional). Tighten (do not over-tightened) water supply line to assembly (wrench). Use dikes to cut off compression fittings from both the ice and chilled water dispenser lines. Push lines into assembly. Re-mount assembly to fridge. Turn on water supply line. Check for leaks.

After turning of and unplugging the refrigerator, it consisted of removing the screws on the back panel. The old part had three fitting with compression nuts. I was surprised to find the new part only had onecompression nut on the water supply and the other two lines were "slip" fittings. I was a little concerned about using the existing tubing, but had no leaks. I checked to make sure the water dispenser was working before I pushed the unit back and good that I did because I had inadverently switched electrical connections. Overall, this was still an easy job.

remove old valve, water lines and electrical wires and replace water lines, duel water valve and wires