TPX24BIBABB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Turn off water valve to the refigerator and disconnect line.
Remove the cardboard backing and insulation.
Remove old valve and cut lines close to the valve.
Trim plastic on new valve as needed to fit (generic valve).
Insert water lines into new valve.
Install new valve.
Connect water line and open valve.
Replace cardboard backing and insulation.

Removed cardboard cover from back of refrigerator with nutdriver. Removed old pump and reconnected water lines and electrical. reinstalled pump.It did take about 5-10 minutes for the pump to refill ice tray.

The valve was leaking from the core and not the in/out tubes. The valve is easy to get to and very easy to replace. When replacing the water in/outs you cut them off the old valve and then slip them on the new valve. 5 to 10 minute job.

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

Pulled the fridge out from the wall, disconnected the power cord,turned off the water supply,removed the backing that covers the fan/motor and the two way water valve. Removed one screw that holds water valve to back of fridge,removed two water lines. Installed the new water valve , connected water lines and screw, installed back dust cover, plugged in the 110 cord, turned on the water valve. Within 30 minutes a new tray of ice cubes was ejected into the ice holding box. Mission completed.

Changing the valve was easy, remove and replace. The problem came afterwards. After shuting off the water and waiting for the replacement valve, the water line coming in to the icemaker froze solid causing water to spray into the freezer, causing a major leak. After thawing out the line, it still leaked because the water in the freezer had frozen up the freezer drain again causing another leak.Bottom line, after replaceing the valve, take a few extra minutes to check or replace the water line coming to the icemaker. That will save a headache later.

First I removed the screw holding the valve in place. I then pulled the valve out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires and water line.
I repaced the old valve with the new valve and performed the steps in reverse order and the ice maker was making ice that night. I however developed a leak and had to have another valve sent. The problem has been solved and all is well.
Parts select has been fast, friendly and helpful through my whole experience. I would like to say thanks for all your courteous help and hopefully this will help others realize the benefit of Parts select to us do-it-ourselfer!.

Thank you!

Jeff Lopian
Athens, Illinois

Disconnected the power, removed the unit by removing 1 screw. Disconnected both water hoses and 2 electric connectors. Wasted alot of time trying to follow the directions that came with the valve. DO NOT try to use the old bracket as the instructions state. It does not work. Just use the valve as it arrives. I liked the easy snap in water tube connectors. Saves time. The electric was a snap. Just install the adapters (lugs) that come with the kit and push them on. Then, just bolt the unit back in and that's it. I did also have a problem with the unit making a screeching noise when it dispensed water. I asked Parts Select for a remedy and they suggested I replace the water filter. That solved the noise problem and now it's like new again. Way to go Parts Select! Thanks for the advice and speedy delivery.

Plastic lines were cracked open right at valve and leaking water onto floor. Bad design on GE's part, plastic lines where heat was produced by compressor.

Turned off water supply.

Removed cardboard panel at rear bottom of refrigerator.

Unscrewed copper fill tube clamp.

Took copper fill tube off of valve using 1/2 inch (I think) open end wrench. This used compression fitting.

Removed solenoid by unscrewing one hex-head screws.

Pulled off two electrical connectors.

Trimmed ends of plastic tubes (they were hardened by heat, and will likely leak again.)

Pushed tubed into new solenoid valves (original connection was via some plastic nut and fitting.)

Reattached electrical connectors, using lug adapters (included in package) on one to make up for slightly narrower terminal on new valve.

Reattached copper fill line to valve using original compression fitting. **Had to bend line to make it fit between new lower valve inlet and screw clamp on refrigerator housing.** That was only slightly tricky part of job.

Reattached valve to refrigerator and replaced cardboard panel.

Turned water on and everything worked, and no leaks.

Will likely need to do this again when old stiff lines crack again.

Repair work was straight forward except for the change in fittings. The copper water supply line was originally connected to the valve by a flared fitting but the new valve required a ferrule type connection. It was necessary to cut the tubing and to obtain a new nut and ferrule. Likewise the plastic water lines feeding the ice maker and chilled water supply had to be cut so that they could be connected to the "shark bite" type fitting.......no plastic nuts required.

After hunting around I found that the inlet water valve was leaking. I turned off the water and ordered a new part from Part Select. It came and I put it in. I had to disconnected the three water lines (one in, two out) and the electrical connections. Keep track of what came from where. I plugged everything back into the new valve. Piece of cake.

Unpluged frig . Removed back at bottom of frig . Removed mounting bracket, removed two water supply tubes diconnected two electical plugs fron water valve
Then installed new valve in reverse order. Except for plastic housing which required some manipulation /squeezed to fit it worked great
P.S.don't forget to turn off water supply to frig. Ha Ha

After turning of and unplugging the refrigerator, it consisted of removing the screws on the back panel. The old part had three fitting with compression nuts. I was surprised to find the new part only had onecompression nut on the water supply and the other two lines were "slip" fittings. I was a little concerned about using the existing tubing, but had no leaks. I checked to make sure the water dispenser was working before I pushed the unit back and good that I did because I had inadverently switched electrical connections. Overall, this was still an easy job.

replaced it with a new updated water valve. It was a bit different however the basics were the same-had great instructions with the valve-box is 21 years old so was a little worried about finding the part--thanks to the internet I found your great ad and info was easy to pull up-schematic sure helped. Now enjoying my Jack Daniels with perfect ice. Thanks a million. Bob Valdepena

Shut the water off to it. Carefully moved the refrigerator away from the wall to avoid damage to the copper piped water. Removed the cardboard cover at the bottom and rear. Layed a towel down to catch water. unscrewed the copper water line from the leaky double valve unit. Removed the old double valve unit by unscrewing the single support screw. Installed the new unit in reverse order without following the directions that suggested using the old support structure. Took the opportunity to vacuum the cooling coils while back there, but broke an impeller on the cooling fan which is requiring further maintenance. Be careful!