MDE6200AZQ Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Unplugged dryer and removed screws that hold door in place. removed screws that hold front panel. removed front panel. took drum belt off idler pulley. pulled drum out of dryer cabinet. unhooked wiring harness and removed motor. replaced motor and reversed steps to put back together. Thanks to partselect for getting me the parts so quickly. I ordered the motor on line on Friday and it was at my house on Saturday.

I watched Steve the repairman on u tube then opened up the front of the dryer and noticed the part in my dryer was a little different than the one on the video. So I called in and I was reassured it was what I wanted. When I got the replacement part and before I removed the old part I took pictures of the wiring noticing the wires where changed from left to right I had to make up one of the 12 gauge wires and connectors with parts from the hardware store and the new part was shorter than the old part, but the machine all ready had screw holes where I needed them. I looked at my photos and wired the new part the same way I took the wires off the old part and put it back together and it works like new! saved money! the local guy is $150 to show up and start the clock. I also fixed the blower,EASY!

First removed front door 2 screws holding it to frame, then removed 2 screws holding front cover panel on tilt out front panel, used vac to clean inside, removed idler arm with pully attached, replaced with new parts when I did a test run still had a llitle squeek, the drum support wheel on right looking from front making some squeeking,I went back in removed part shaft had small rust spot cleaned with jewelers cloth lubed and wiped off, no more squeek I wish I had ordered new drum wheel when I ordered idler parts, then I could have done a complete overhaul now I know more I have never worked on a dryer before the drawings on the web site heleped a lot

Unplugged the dryer (don't forget this step guys!!!)

Pulled the front off the dryer (4 screws) and swapped the motor out - take off the belt, pull the blower wheel (by removing the snaprigs and squeeze collar), then pull off the motor retaining clips... unplug the motor and install the new one in reverse. Took me less than 2 hours and my dryer works like new.

WAY CHEAPER than a new dryer!!!

removed front door, removed front panels, lifted top back, unhooked belt, removed drum and belt, removed blower housing front, removed squirrel cage, removed blower housing, unplugged motor, removed motor assembly , ..switched new motor to motor cradle ... reversed process.

My Husband did the repair. He had to take the entire dryer apart to get to the motor. Removed door, front pannel, drum. During this repair he also replaced the belt since it had cracks and since the dryer was taken apart. placed new motor in and put all back to gether many screws he had to remember where they all went. Have to be very careful with the felt liner around drum. we started dryer has never ran more smoothly. Two people recommended to put dryer back together.

I followed the YouTube video for pulling the heating element to remove and place the thermostat. The actual thermostat removal and replacement was pretty simple. Most of my time was spent removing the front panel, pulling and reinstalling the heating element.

If you have the option to take a part the dryer before ordering the parts to track down the squeaking part, do so. In my case a squeaking part is still usable. Unfortunately the squeaking part was not the rollers or the belt depicted as a high percentage of the squeaking problems as noted on the webpage.My was the Idler Pulley. INSTALLATION of idler pulley, I started by watching the youtube videos, took pictures during the removal of the parts to assist in the installation. removed front panels parts, moved drum forward off the rollers, reached in and pulled the idler pulley to the left in order to remove belt. pulled the drum out. And with a flat head screw driver popped off the e clip (bought extra e clip just in case i lost it) reinstalled everything, BUT take note of the Idler pulley, it has one side bigger than the other BUT in the CLOSE UP VIDEO THE GENTLEMAN INSTALLS IT BACKWARDS. Not sure if this has a major effect on the pulley, but wanted to give it a heads up (your pictures will help you with this to keep track of how it should look at the end).

I ordered two parts for my Maytag model MDE7400ATW, and studied the videos on your website. Both showed front panel access by removing screws on the bottom of the panel. My front was completely different. It seems both configurations bear the same model number.
I thought I had the wrong parts, then I looked for other videos on the website related to other parts replacement and found that some did have the same cabinet as mine, such as the idler wheel, Part Number WP6-3700340
They should make it clear on the website that there are two cabinet configurations and customers may have to look at the videos for other repairs to learn the correct way to take off the front panel. It may save returns from customers who simply can’t open the front.
After all, the repair went well, but the screw holding the heater assembly in the rear is a long reach and I needed a flashlight to see wher the screw needed to go.

I took the front door off, then i took the the front facing off so i could see in where the idler pulley was. Then I took a couple of screws out so i could get the tumbler out so i could put the belt back on track. I replaced the pulley and then started putting everything back together and now the dryer works like a brand new one. I loved buying parts from here. Cause you are showed how to replace the parts you are wanting to replace. I was very satisfied with everything.

Replaced the heating element and both thermostats. Hope that takes care of problem! You tube was a tremendous help through video's.h

I removed the lower panel and control panel, then the front body panel. With those open, I removed the drum support and drum. I then removed the cover from the air guide, then unbolted the air guide from the motor assembly.

Then, I disconnected the wiring connector to the motor, unbolted the motor carrier from the bottom of the unit, and removed it. I removed the idler arm from the motor carrier, then unclipped the two clips holding the motor in the carrier.

At that point, while everything was out, I gave the carrier a thorough cleaning. I then placed the new motor, replaced the clips that hold it in place, and put everything back together in the reverse order of taking it apart.

While I was in the machine, since I had everything taken apart, I did also take the opportunity to replace the idler pulley and drum rollers proactively.

Remove front of cabinet, hinge the top back, remove the drum and drive belt, unplug the motor, remove cover on blower, remove snap ring on end of motor shaft, remove motor mount hold-downs, remove and replace motor in reverse order

I ordered the wrong motor for my dryer PN PS3500892, the right one was PN PS11741125, the motor specs were the same but the shaft were different lengths and different blower fan and fasteners. Since I had the wrong motor in hand I worked with Parts Select to order the correct blower fan and fasteners for this motor. Got it all installed and everything fit as it should. even though this was a different part than I had before it saved me $100 by doing it this way, Thanks to Parts Select for helping me through this maze with me asking many questions about part sizes and fasteners. They did this all for my savings. Most parts places would not have gone this far for the customers benefit. Thank you very much Parts Select !

The hardest part of this repair was diagnosis. After running continuity tests on the electrical components, removing the heating unit showed a broken filament on the heat coils. The replacement part fit mechanically, but used spade terminals for high voltage instead of the original mounting posts, requiring retermination of the wires. One of the power leads also had to be extended in length. All works after completion.