MDE6200AZQ Maytag Dryer - Instructions

my son did the installation according to your excellent video instructions

unplug dryer; remove dryer door; remove front cover; thermal fuse located on heater underneath and beside drum; remove two electrical leads on fuse; remove two screws holding fuse in place; install new fuse and do the above in reverse; clean lint from duct; plug dryer into

First removed front door 2 screws holding it to frame, then removed 2 screws holding front cover panel on tilt out front panel, used vac to clean inside, removed idler arm with pully attached, replaced with new parts when I did a test run still had a llitle squeek, the drum support wheel on right looking from front making some squeeking,I went back in removed part shaft had small rust spot cleaned with jewelers cloth lubed and wiped off, no more squeek I wish I had ordered new drum wheel when I ordered idler parts, then I could have done a complete overhaul now I know more I have never worked on a dryer before the drawings on the web site heleped a lot

removed front door, removed front panels, lifted top back, unhooked belt, removed drum and belt, removed blower housing front, removed squirrel cage, removed blower housing, unplugged motor, removed motor assembly , ..switched new motor to motor cradle ... reversed process.

Replaced the heating element and both thermostats. Hope that takes care of problem! You tube was a tremendous help through video's.h

I took the front door off, then i took the the front facing off so i could see in where the idler pulley was. Then I took a couple of screws out so i could get the tumbler out so i could put the belt back on track. I replaced the pulley and then started putting everything back together and now the dryer works like a brand new one. I loved buying parts from here. Cause you are showed how to replace the parts you are wanting to replace. I was very satisfied with everything.

My Husband did the repair. He had to take the entire dryer apart to get to the motor. Removed door, front pannel, drum. During this repair he also replaced the belt since it had cracks and since the dryer was taken apart. placed new motor in and put all back to gether many screws he had to remember where they all went. Have to be very careful with the felt liner around drum. we started dryer has never ran more smoothly. Two people recommended to put dryer back together.

If you have the option to take a part the dryer before ordering the parts to track down the squeaking part, do so. In my case a squeaking part is still usable. Unfortunately the squeaking part was not the rollers or the belt depicted as a high percentage of the squeaking problems as noted on the webpage.My was the Idler Pulley. INSTALLATION of idler pulley, I started by watching the youtube videos, took pictures during the removal of the parts to assist in the installation. removed front panels parts, moved drum forward off the rollers, reached in and pulled the idler pulley to the left in order to remove belt. pulled the drum out. And with a flat head screw driver popped off the e clip (bought extra e clip just in case i lost it) reinstalled everything, BUT take note of the Idler pulley, it has one side bigger than the other BUT in the CLOSE UP VIDEO THE GENTLEMAN INSTALLS IT BACKWARDS. Not sure if this has a major effect on the pulley, but wanted to give it a heads up (your pictures will help you with this to keep track of how it should look at the end).

I ordered two parts for my Maytag model MDE7400ATW, and studied the videos on your website. Both showed front panel access by removing screws on the bottom of the panel. My front was completely different. It seems both configurations bear the same model number.
I thought I had the wrong parts, then I looked for other videos on the website related to other parts replacement and found that some did have the same cabinet as mine, such as the idler wheel, Part Number WP6-3700340
They should make it clear on the website that there are two cabinet configurations and customers may have to look at the videos for other repairs to learn the correct way to take off the front panel. It may save returns from customers who simply can’t open the front.
After all, the repair went well, but the screw holding the heater assembly in the rear is a long reach and I needed a flashlight to see wher the screw needed to go.

I removed the lower panel and control panel, then the front body panel. With those open, I removed the drum support and drum. I then removed the cover from the air guide, then unbolted the air guide from the motor assembly.

Then, I disconnected the wiring connector to the motor, unbolted the motor carrier from the bottom of the unit, and removed it. I removed the idler arm from the motor carrier, then unclipped the two clips holding the motor in the carrier.

At that point, while everything was out, I gave the carrier a thorough cleaning. I then placed the new motor, replaced the clips that hold it in place, and put everything back together in the reverse order of taking it apart.

While I was in the machine, since I had everything taken apart, I did also take the opportunity to replace the idler pulley and drum rollers proactively.

I followed the YouTube video for pulling the heating element to remove and place the thermostat. The actual thermostat removal and replacement was pretty simple. Most of my time was spent removing the front panel, pulling and reinstalling the heating element.

Remove front of cabinet, hinge the top back, remove the drum and drive belt, unplug the motor, remove cover on blower, remove snap ring on end of motor shaft, remove motor mount hold-downs, remove and replace motor in reverse order

Several times I watched the video of "Steve" removing the old motor and installing the new one. Pretty much followed what he did. Faltered for a moment at the end reinstalling the drive belt as that was a blind procedure, done by feel. Hardest part was getting the spring clamps off the old motor; even Steve struggled a bit doing that part of the job on the video. But in the end, the dryver started right up and ran quieter than it has for months.

The hardest part of this repair was diagnosis. After running continuity tests on the electrical components, removing the heating unit showed a broken filament on the heat coils. The replacement part fit mechanically, but used spade terminals for high voltage instead of the original mounting posts, requiring retermination of the wires. One of the power leads also had to be extended in length. All works after completion.

Unplugged the dryer (don't forget this step guys!!!)

Pulled the front off the dryer (4 screws) and swapped the motor out - take off the belt, pull the blower wheel (by removing the snaprigs and squeeze collar), then pull off the motor retaining clips... unplug the motor and install the new one in reverse. Took me less than 2 hours and my dryer works like new.

WAY CHEAPER than a new dryer!!!