MDE6200AZQ Maytag Dryer - Instructions

1) Took off the front door of the drier (first unscrewed it in the sides, then lifted the door to lift the hinges up and pulled the door off)
2) Pulled the front panel down and off
3) I checked the belt to see if it was broken and it wasn't
4) I tried to turn the drier barrel manually to see if I can move the belt... it didn't move. Not knowing if there was just too much resistance, I tested the drier while looking at the motor and motor pulley as it ran.
5) I noticed that the motor pinion rotated, but the belt was slipping against it... that's why it smelled. The rubber was burning
6) Then I found that the idler pulley had stopped rotating, and the belt actually cut a channel into part of the plastic... That's when I realized that I had to replace at least the idler pulley.
7) Not knowing whether the bushing and other parts were going to be salvageable, I ordered parts for the whole assembly... but I wasn't sure how to best approach the repair...
8) Then I found partselect.com, and they had both diagrams of the assembly, all the parts easy to order, and best of all, a video of someone actually going through this repair! I was dumbfounded! :)
9) For swapping the parts I just watched the video on how to pull out the drier barrel... the only difference is that I didn't see a need to unplug the cables from the front top panel before removing the drier tumbler. (Obviously the power was turned off :P)
10) when I removed the barrel, I swapped the whole idler pulley assembly, just keeping the original spring.
11) Put everything back together, and it ran like a champ!

The video helped me save a lot of time though... it showed me how the whole thing is most easily serviced and made the repair a breeze!

If your dryer does not run at all consider buying the thermal fuse with the tube. It is cheap and will save time if just the heater tube does not solve the problem.

1) Unplugged dryer.

2) Removed two screws on the front of the dryer panel under the door, swung bottom out and up to remove.

3) Removed one sheet metal screw in from of heater tube holding to base of unit.

4) Removed second sheet metal screw with nut driver that holds back of heater tube in to vent twoard back of dryer.

5) Carfully disconnected wires from heating element. and turn tube to gain access to screws on left and right sides of tube. Remove sub assemblies on sides of tube for thermal fuse. Just one screw for each, and they will lift off removeing tab from slot.

6) Vacumed out all oul lint.

7) Installed new heating tube by following above steps in revers order.

Tip, watch as you connect wires back on to tube. Make sure that they connect in the same place, and connect them in an order that will not interfear with re-assembly. I always take a picture with my cell phone before I disconnect anything, or draw a picture lableing wires and colors to positions. This job is very easy, and saves hundreds of dollars!!!

I searched for possible symptoms and viewed a video about how to remove the heating element. There were three possible parts listed for this symptom: Thermostat, thermal coupling and heating element. I decided to check the heating element continuity, so I removed the heating element. Once I looked at the heating element, I could see a break in the heating coil, so I know the problem. I put my existing thermostat on the new heating element, plugged in 4 wires and installed two screws to secure the heating element, then reinstalled the front cover to the dryer.

Found a video online and followed the directions. I liked a tip that was given in the video and that was to take a digital picture of the wiring before disconnecting it. Then I referred back to it when I put it back together and it was easy.

remove door screws on both sides of door opening. remove front panel. replace thermostat

I followed your instructions to the letter. It was very easy. Your shipping time was unbelievable. 1-1/2 days.

An underwire from a bra shorted the element out. After unplugging the dryer i removed 4 screws from the front (accessed with the door open). Gently closed the door and popped the front off. I did a continuity test on the 2 spade connectors at the end of the element. No continuity= bad element. Keep track of where the wires go before disconnecting them. Remove the 2 mounting screws with a 1/4" nut driver and remove the element. Piece of cake!

Watched the video and it was a breeze.

Remove front cover of dryer and drum. Replace

I repladed the idler pulley and I just followed the directions on the parts select video. The video was a great help. The only thing I did different was I didn't unhook the wiring when I took off the front of the dryer since there was enough wire I could just flip it on the side of the dryer out of my way. Other than that I followed the Parts Select Video Directions to the tee. I just wish I would of ordered the Idler Pulley shaft also because I didn't realize it was pretty worn too, but I plan on ordering another pulley and shaft as soon as it starts making that auwful noise again.

replaced both solenoids on the gas valve.

I removed the front Panel of the dryer. I then removed two screws with the nut driver holding the heating element in place. After removing the old element I removed two screws holding the thermostat on the old element. I then used these screws to attached the new thermostat to the new element. I then put the new element in place and reattached with the screws, put the wires back on and replaced the front panel and wha la I had heat again.

We started by unplugging the unit thenremoving the door tand front panel.By removing the belt from the tensioner and lifting out the drum.the drum rollers were replaced first and rumble was still there when operated.Checking the blower wheel revealed a crack the width of the blower.After new blower was installed the dryer operated almost as quietly as new.

Very clear troubleshooting guide and repair instructions in the on-line manual. It would have been a walk in the park except one crimp-on connector was corroded and broke off as I was removing the old part ... that could have been my problem. I didn't have a replacement connector the right size, so I soldered the wire to the terminal. Works great!

I replaced the idler pulley and arm. I had broken down the dryer before to find the source of an annoying squeaking problem. At that time I lubricated the bearing with some hi-temp bearing grease; that worked for awhile but was not permanent. Needing to do it again, I ordered the replacement parts off the PartSelect site using the provided diagrams and parts. [Very nice.] I then checked the videos tagged to each of the parts to make sure I was doing everything right. Everything went back in perfectly. The site is very useful and very helpful. Thanks.