GQB7429VC119 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

First I undid the hose clamps holding the housing on the dishwasher. Then I removed the 4 screws that connected the motor to the bottom of the dishwasher. I then slipped the house UP out of the dishwasher from the inside where your dishes are washed. This also required me to remove the guard that prevents any large objects from washing away down into the Sump Housing. This required 2 long screws to be removed. Then you just drop the housing back down into the hole where the previous one was removed. Removing the 4 screws from the motor allows the flexibility to move the motor around and back onto the new housing. Button everything back up at this point and tighten the hose clamps back up and your set.

As the washer is slightly undersized to perform correctly, following standard instructions to replace the drain valve staff seal and retaining washer I wound Teflon tape between the retaining ring and washer to slightly increase pressure on the washer and seal the opening.

Took apart the top of the spray arm(left hand thread). Removed a phillips head screw and imediatley it dropped down into the pump. Tried retrieving it with a magnet.. Unscrewed the rest of the spray arm post from the tub. This could not let me see the lost screw and also the nylon piece that anchors the post in place dropped down towards the pump. Rigged the shop vac and some 5/16 plastic tubing to suck most of the water from the pump.Disconnected the power, drain and water supply and pulled the unit out and laid it on it's back. Grabbed some towels to soak up the water from somewhere!! I loosened the hose clamps on the pump assembly and found the missing stainless steel screw. After examining the new part I decided it was not the right part. That spray arm assembly has to be for a newer model. Mine is 25 yrs old. I used bungie cords to hold the door open while the dishwasher was on its back. I had a plastic drinkig cup that just fit in rubber collar that held that nylon piece. I forced it up into place and screwed the lower part of the post on inside the tub. I stood the machine back upright and finished assembling the spray arm. The parts on top had about 5/16 in of movement that let the water leak into the tub and not go throught the spray arm. Found a plastic washer that fit just right. I blocked the holes that screw might fall thruogh with small pieces of rags. Got back together and reinstalled the dishwasher under the counter. It worked fine for about 2 weeks. On May 6th I found the tub full of water after a washing cycle. After trouble shooting it showed a worn out timer. The local ACE Hardware sells dish washers of several different brands. The new Frigidaire arrived Tuesday the 9th and I installed it. I had saved the sound suppressing blanket from the old unit and put it on the new one. I still have that new part here.

The repair kit solenoid was mounted in a metal bracket. My unit has the solenoid and mounting bracket as one piece. If the solenoid was separate it would have been an easy fix. As it was I had to cut the solenoid out of the bracket to mount it in my unit which this kit was suppose to fit.

I first shut off water supply and disconnected the water line and drain hose to the disposal. Then I pulled the dishwasher out from the cabinet unplugged the electrical wire from the wall and laid it on it's back side. I then laid out the new motor and compared parts to parts. It was a direct replacement of the same motor except for very minor changes. I unscrewed the support bracket, then unscrewed the bottom clamp that joined the motor and the rubber connector to the dishwasher. I also decided to replace that part also. That part was removed by using my hand to unscrew it. It has large threads that are not very recognizable when looking at the part. It unscrews counterclockwise like a normal screw. You have to hold the inside piece while you screw the new one back in place. I put it as tight as I could by hand. I would recommend doing so on all motor replacements due to that part not looking so good and if it leaked you would have to take everything apart again to change it out. That part is a separate purchase and it is not included with the kit. Then I took the other clamp to the plastic connector off. I then unplugged the electrical connections, there were only two and they were both exact connections for the replacement motor. After that the entire motor was separated from the dishwasher and I went slipped the new motor into place connected two clamps and made sure everything was reconnected. I slid the dishwasher in place, reconnected the power wire, the drain hose, water supply. I checked for leaks after restoring water pressure. Then ran the dishwasher through a complete cycle and it works just fine. Total repairs cost about 150.00 and the dishwasher appears to be brand new again. I took one look at the diagrams and never had to refer back to them. They had plenty different diagrams and the first option was mine and that was all I needed. I would recommend this option to anyone.

I follow the instruction showing in your video and the replacement was very easy. I am very please that you provided a didactic video. Now the dishwasher is working like new. Thanks.

There was no mention of a very slight rub of silicone for lubrication. I have always utilized this on all "O" rings with good results!

I just removed , screen and cover where the sump housing was that was easy, then we removed the old sump housing and that was easy.. But then we, I had my wife help for we couldn't get the sump housing back in. It was because we was trying to push it in from the back end and the front end keep popping out it wouldn't seal. Then we tried pushing it in from the front and it popped right in..So we got it figured out..It wasn't hard if you knew what you were doing. :0) But for two old people it wasn't that bad. hahah

Disconnect the power. Unscrew the bottom toe kick panel. Locate the solenoid drain valve to the front left of the machine and disconnect the wired connection. Pry off the retainer clip on the drain valve spindle and set aside for reuse. Plan on getting a new one because you will most likely damage it when removing. Remove the spring from the solenoid valve spindle arm to access one of the three screws holding the solenoid drain valve to the pump. Remove the three screws. Remove the solenoid and plastic housing. Remove the push-on-nut from the spindle by cutting off the old one with wire cutters. Plan on buying a new one because you will never get it off in one piece. Pry out old valve seal with a knife or thin screw driver. Insert new seal and install new push on nut over seal. Important!! make sure the drain valve opens/closes freely by hand because you may have pushed the spindle in to far when installing the push on nut. Place the push on nut in a socket wrench socket with an extension and hammer it on gently or try to start itwith pliers and use a small length of 3/8" copper tubing. Again, check to see if drain valve rotates and pull the spindle in or out with pliers to adjust. Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order. Leak shoud be fixed but check to see if machine drains properly. You may have to dissassemble and adjust the spindle again. This is a difficult repair with the machine left in place. However, it is worth 1-2 hours of your time and for about 20 bucks in parts and shipping. Good luck!!

Just follow the instructions and take your time. Clean out base trap and float control while you're in there.

turned off the power to the dishwasher, pulled it out and turned it on its side. disconnected the water connection. removed the leaking sump housing. inserted the new sump housing. this proved to be a bit time consuming as it was difficult to get the sump housing through and established properly. my husband, son and i prevailed and viola! a $280 appliance repair done for the cost of $18 (plus paid for expedited shipping to have the next day as we wanted this done before christmas!) not bad!

I took the lower cover pannel screws out of the dish washer to view the pump assy. Then remove the solinoid bracket which covered the Drain Valve Seal. The hardest part was removing the star washer in front of the seal. That is where I had to use the pliers to remove it. Then I had to straighten
the washer out so I could reuse it. Pulled old Seal out and replaced with new and reassembled. Test ran a cycle and wasn't leaking any more. Easy fix!

turned dishwasher on its side; removed the old rubber connector, [which looked like a bulge in a baloon] inserted the new connector and hooked up water lines and bottom arm of dishwasher and was ready for use.

Removed 1 C clip and 2 screws that held the Solonoid, cut the old push on nut off with a pair of dykes so it would not scratch the shaft, pinched out the old seal with a needle nose pliers and wiped everything clean with a moist paper towel. Replaced the old parts with the new ones but I still have the same, smaller, but same water leak.

Turned dishwasher on it's back, removed the connector, attached new connector with socket wrench, put motor & assembly back, reinstalled appliance.