GQB7429VC119 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

remove bottom basket, grab sprayarm by the base and turn counterclock wise. VERY simple repair

Read Joseph from Livermore, CA for good instructions. I took a camera phone photo for reference before I started. Should have taken another photo half way thru. Probably put the push-on-nut on backwards as it didn't 'lock' in - had too much play in the shaft, would have leaked. Impossible to get nut back off in good shape. I put original mangled push-on-nut on also - it added enough tension to eliminate play in the shaft. No leak..but lucky. Go ahead, you can do this repair for under $20.

used the repair info from your website, many thanks! now I know where to come next time.

I removed the motor and pump assembly. I had to unplug the motor and drain solenoid, remove inlet and drain hose, and loosed the recirculate hose and water return to pump clamps. I also had to remove the ground wire on the motor. I removed the solenoid and bracket. I had to cut the push nut off with diagonal cutting pliers. The seal removed easily. I buffed the shaft with emery paper and reassembled the drain solenoid. The push nut took a little effort to seat in place. I reassembled in reverse order. i still have a leak, only not as bad. I am sure the shaft is loose in the seal.

I googled "dishwasher will not drain" and replacemed drain solenoid. The repair was relatively easy.

On this model the panel under the door can be removed by unscrewing two hex screws on the upper panel and two phillips head screws on the lower vent panel. The drain solenoid is located on the left side of the pump and can be accessed easily without pulling the dishwasher out from under the counter. The solenoid is held in place with two phillips head screws, and the plastic actuator that is attached to the valve stem is simply press fitted on and held in place with a retaining ring. All necessary parts are included in the repair kit.

Took the two screws out and left everything intact (disconnected power). Cut push nut off with wire clip. Removed old gasket. Replaced. Now solenoid arm is stiff and stays down not allowing the cycle to run properly. The leak is fixed, however.

Followed the directions. I've done this before. I used to fix these things for a living. The metal clip in front of the seal wouldn't come off. I ended up pulling the shaft out of the drain flapper in the pump which ruins the pump. A 14 year old DW isn't worth a pump. So I bought a new KitchenAid. The seal should come with a new metal clip since you may have to destroy it to replace the seal. If you are buying a seal, buy the clip.

I first shut off the power to dishwasher, then shut off water and disconnected the water supply line. Then pulled the washer out from under counter and layed it face down. Undid the hose clamp from sump housing and clamp for wash arm rubber connector. Disconnected screw for the motor brace. Motor swung out of way. Pulled out sump housing and cleaned the edges of the hole. Pushed housing threw bottom and got it to seat in the groove inside the washer. I then unscrewed the rubber for the wash arm and cleaned those areas too. Screwed the new connector on and made it tight, old one was loose. Moved the motor back and reconnected hose clamps and reattached the motor support bracket. Stood washer back up and pushed it back under the counter. Reconnect water line and turned water back on to make sure it was not leaking. Turned power back on to washer. Then poured a large pot of water into washer and turned on and kept checking for leaks but there were none. Finished putting cover plates back on and the washer was done. Then I had to replaced some of the flooring that was damaged from the leaking of these two parts.

The only thing I would add to your instructions. Hold the shaft tight while pushing the lock nut on. Pull back with a slight pressure, then push on nut. If you don't you could be placing to much tightness on the drain valve making it so your dishwasher won't fill properly.

Took machine out on back porch, turned on side, removed solenoid assembly, forced push on nut off, took out rubber seal, used sandpaper to clean shaft to prevent scarring new seal, installed new seal (wet with water) installed new push on washer being careful not to push on past the ring on the shaft, reinstalled solenoid assembly, works fine. Thanks very much.

At first, I found a metal band that was rusted and loose, replaced it but still had a leak. I went to the diagnosis section and identified another area of problem, ordered the part and got super quick delivery. With the help my wife I was able to pull apart, repair and get the unit to run and stay dry. Wife is happy because she loves the décor of our old but now dry dishwasher.

i replaced the drain seal without removing the dishwasher as far as the push on nut i had to use a round punch to open the tabs a little.. i also used Vaseline to hold the c clip in place to snap it in with a screwdriver

Removed and inverted the DW. Removed the impeller, grinder, screen and seals then the actual shaft seal. Replaced with new parts in reverse order. Instructions provided with the seal kit were simple and excellent. They were right to the point.

Followed the easy to follow instructions. Disconnected water, power, drain hose.. Pulled out unit. Tilted to back, used nut driver to disconnect motor brace, loosened hose clamps. Pulled pump/motor off. Unscrewed off defective part. Cleaned area of debris to reassemble the part ordered. Reconnect everything, reinstalled dishwasher. Turned on unit. No leaks! Dishwasher works great.