GQB7429VC119 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Ordered the Drain Valve Shaft Seal and Push On Nut to make repair. Removed dishwasher from counter. Removed motor/pump assembly from dishwasher. Removed drain celenoid from pump. Removed old push on nut and old drain valve seal. Installed new seal and push nut. Replaced everything in reverse order. Amazingly no water leaks after reinstallation. Seams to be working fine so far....fingers crossed. Hoping to get a few more years out of this dishwasher.
Thank You PartSelect.

Removed dishwasher from under counter,hardest part,removed to workshop. Laid it on the door with cardboard under it. Removed the clamp with a nut driver, pulled it off the pump squeesed it up out of the tub. To replace it was a little harder. It didn't want to stay into the grove in the tub. Placed it on the pump first to hold it down and than it went in the grove better. Last I took a wooden dowell rod and press it down tight into the grove. Replaced drain guard which holds it into the grove. Tested it for leaks. Returned it to under counter.

First turn water supply off,take out two screws under counter that holds dishwasher in place,pull washer out just enough to take water supply line loose from the unit, finish pulling unit out from under the counter top lay unit on it`s side or door down on the floor,remove clamp with a flat screw driver,unthread pump connector from washer arm and install new connector, very easy installation if you have any mechanical skills at all.

This is a very simple fix. The majority of work comes from getting the unit out of it's enclosed space so it can be worked on. Once the dishwasher is out in the open, lay it on it's side, and simply unscrew some metal clamps, pop out the bad part, replace it with the new, reattach the pieces and clamps, and start putting the unit back in place.

I'm just happy I was able to actually find the part to begin with, and then to make the changes myself is a very rewarding feeling. Instead of missing time from work and shelling out $150+ to have an appliance repair man come out to do the work, I spent $20 for the part, and maybe an hour total to make the repairs.

I'll be back to this site in the future if/when other parts on other appliances go bad.

we took the surrounding cover off the machine, then took out the bottom basket. turned the dishwasher on it's back for easy access. open the door and unscrew the lower spray arm from the rubber connector, then loosen the clamp around the connector and pry out. the connector is a little hard to put back on because of the need to be tight but a little muscle does the trick! then screw the new spray arm back onto the connector from inside the machine making sure you get it tight, without using a tool on it. then just re-attach the cover.

Getting the upper part of the lower arm out was easy. It is just tabs that hold it in. Screwing the old one out was the hardest part it was fused in with dried detergant but once it was loose it was a real easy to put the new one back in.

take a medium size pair of channel locks gripping near the base of the spray tower and unscrew in counterclockwise direction. hand tighten new tower and hand spin to make sure there is no binding. in shipping the second of three extsions was oval shaped instead round and i took a hair dryer and warmed the oval part and made it round. worked like a champ.

I connected one end of hose to the drain using a hose clamp and screwdriver then connected the other end to the dishwasher using anouther hose clamp and a screwdriver..

My dishwasher is just over two years old and began leaking, naturally, out of warranty. My son has been repairing appliances for many years and knew what to look for, which is why we ordered the parts. When I contacted " Hotpoint " and was told how sorry they were , the person I spoke with only implied that my son isn't qualified and they could send a technician " to look at it ". I told them not to bother, but to be assured, after buying Hotpoint appliances most of my life, I will look at other products in the future, that might last more than two years. As soon as the parts were replaced, the problem was resolved.

Used channel locks to gently remove the old assembly. Threaded the new assembly in; Done!!!

I took out the sliding dish basket from the bottom of the washer. Set aside. I pulled the detached (broken) spray arm out and trashed it. Next, I unscrewed the base mount from the bottom of the tub basin. Once this was removed, I simply screwed in the new unit.

It's important to know that the spray arm and mount come connected in the new part altogether as one part. Which is how it is when it's not broken. When it's broken, there are two disconnected parts. Both broken parts are discarded.

By screwing in the replacement part, you now have both parts, as one, properly affixed to the dishwasher.

I saw the video said a strap could be used to dislodge the base mount. I was able to remove mine by hand, but it did take a couple strong torques. If you can managed to remove it by hand, then no tools are required for this job. Otherwise, you'll need some help unscrewing the base mount part.

I ran a wash cycle last night and I'm back online baby! Clean dishes. Daddy doesn't have to wash them by hand any longer!

The expandable tower would slip out of the base of the spray arm due to a crack in the plastic, removing the lower spray arm with tower is easy, simply turn counter-clockwise. keep in mind the material is plastic and can't be horsed. If a leak develops, simply tighten by hand (in a clockwise direction) as it has not seated properly. Job takes a few minutes to complete.

Unscrew the part from the dishwasher and screw the new part in. A previous post recommended a screwdriver for leverage if the part was on tight. Great advice!

Got the new one and screwed it in, easy.

Small rubber gasket needed to be replaced. Not the best design by GE, but it has lasted 11 years before leaking.
Needed to remove the solenoid to access the shaft of the valve. Tough to push gasket into place, but eventually it fit in.