GLD5660V00SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I had a slow leak from vicinity of sump. I replaced sump and pump connector as these were only likely sources of leak based on parts select history. Turns out plastic tub had a fine crack. The crack was directly under the heating element which had melted the plastic and over time created this small crack that was found by a repair guy immediately. I even suspected a tub leak and searched for one but being directly under the element made it invisible to me and in an area I did not suspect (front). Oh well - also learned GE charges $100. to come to my house, show me a crack, and leave (I repaired it with epoxy).

Remove top rack stops, slide out upper rack from rack railing, turn over upper rack and attach spray arm using spray arm bearing and screw. Reassemble in reverse order.

Removed screws that held dishwasher under cabinet...pulled out DW...removed old part...replaced with new....easier than falling off a stump.

After reading other customer responses I decided to attempt the repair myself. After pulling out dishwasher I turned it on it's side and prodeeded to remove the 3 screws holding it in place. FIFTEEN minutes later I pushed it back into position and it has performed like new for the past month. Comparing parts and service I saved about $200.00 on this self repair. I would not hesitate to undertake another repair after my experience.

pulled switches flicked leaver worked when itwanted to and not every time. I removed then shorted then rechecked everthing worked. got on line ordered parts good price fast service fixed 30 min when they came in saved money.Thank God! 20.00 fix instead of 200.00 +

My wife said the door broke; we need a new dishwasher. It is not worth a $100 repair out of warranty. I checked this site the springs were about $4 each. When they arrived I unscrewed two screws holding the dishwasher to the counter; carefully pulled the dishwasher out from under the counter; found the broken spring replaced it and for good measure I also replaced the old working spring on the other side. The door now works fine. Total time less than a half an hour.

Removed the holding screws around the edges; removed and replaced the soap container; reconnected the electrical leads, and done... Very simple fix. But it does get a little tricky since the door is spring loaded. NOTE: THERE ARE SCREWS AT THE BOTTOM THAT IS NOT OBVIOUS.

Unscrew the inside door from the outside door. remove the old control switch, insert the new switch, screw the door back together. Hint-buy two switch interlocks as our first repair only lasted a year....it broke the day we were expecting company for a week...alot of dishes to do while we waited for the part! Easy repair- don't be afraid!

Easily screwed on this part and used it for the door of the dishwasher to properly open and close

im 73 years old and a lady did it myself very easy

I unscrewed all the screws from the inside of the dishwaher door. I took out the broken part, installed the new parts and screwed the screws back in. Part Select was wonderful to work with and the parts arrived the day after they were ordered.

Unscrewed the face plate. Unscrewed the soap dispenser, unplugged each wire from back of broken part(using pliers) and plugged into the new part. Screwed new part back on. Attached the face plate, did some cleaning around the door gasket since I was on my knees and gave it a practice run (empty)to see if soap door would open (it did). I would use this parts service again, they had what I needed and parts arrived promptly and were correct.

Repairs do not get any easier than this. Remove 12 screws to disassemble door panel (be careful not to let front panel of assembly to drop or bend when screws release it). Remove 6 screws to remove old detergent dispenser. Unplug cable from old dispenser. Connect cable to new dispenser. Install new dispenser into door with 6 screws and then reassemble door panel with 12 screws making sure to keep all wiring free from pressure points.

Removing two screws holding the bottom trim/sound baffle opened a view of water dripping from the water intake valve at the left front of my Monogram dishwasher. I then turned off the local (under my adjacent sink) separate feed valve for the washer, then opened the (dedicated) breaker for the machine at my breaker panel.

The replacement valve was identical form and fit to the original. It included the replacement mounting bracket integrated with the valve.

Removing two additional screws holding a bigger sound baffle backed with foam gave good access to replace the valve. The foam was fitted to the power box and a few other obstructions, and apparently stuck to something near the top. I ran my hand up separating the foam from the panel and both then came out easily. I reattached the foam to the panel with clear silicon adhesive.

Removing two screws from the front edge of the bracket holding the valve allowed dropping it down for fairly easy access to the clamp holding the flexible house from the valve to the washer. There wasn’t much slack, so I reached the spring clip with a long plier-like device with cups on the working sold as automotive hose clip tool for that purpose. Regular pliers would likely work, with more skin loss from hands.

That action then allowed pulling the valve out from under the machine (feeding slack in the flexible feed I have installed years ago between that valve and the one under my sink. A small adjustable wrench then made easy work of disconnecting the hose brass coupling from the valve.

The right-angle adapter between the valve body and flexible feed hose is apparently specific to the installation, so it had to be removed and attached to the replacement valve. That was facilitated by placing the valves in a large bench vise, clamping the mounting bracket with the right angle adapter up, and using the adjustable wrench again. The old valve had residue from metal pipe thread sealer, so I used some new sealer on the adapter when installing it. Take care. Getting some inside the valve might be a serious problem. Turn the adapter with the adjustable wrench for a snug fit facing the same direction as the plastic nipple for the machine-side hose.

Installation proceeded easily in reverse of the removal process, using a bit of care to fit that foam back around the intended machine projections. I actually used identical thread lattes screws (wider flange) to hold the upper baffle because I misplaced one of the original screws and decided to originals were distorting the mounting slots because the flanges were too small.

I ran the machine through two cycles before replacing the bottom trim, just to assure there were no leaks. Mild panic when the intake valve didn’t operate as soon as I expected, but it must have been some out of phase control operation, because it eventually operated, then operated as expected during the second cycle.

I disconnected the pipes to the inlet valve. I removed the bolts from the bracket holding the valve. I tried to use two wrenches to remove the brass angle pipe thingie off the bottom of the old valve. I then beat on it with a hammer, then I just threw it against the basement floor till it came off. I would recommend getting a new brass angle pipe thingie before you start.