GLD5660V00SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

After finding significant water on the floor, misdiagnosed as sump/drainage leak. Replaced inlet sump and pump connector which requires unit to be tipped on side. Otherwise straightforward. Problem was actually a failure to drain. Drain pump running, but water not removed. Each successive step in the cycle added more water, and it eventually overflowed. Had to reinstall unit to determine this, so did that twice. All drain pipes clear. Found small piece of old sump 'latex' blocking drain pump flap valve which I could have looked for when I took it out to replace the sump. Removed blockage and reinstalled. Test drain OK with small bucket of water and rinse only cycle (with water off) just in case. Alignment of the various passages while tightening clamps is important as motor weight can distort rubber parts. I tied the motor up while reassembling.

This is a somewhat difficult task in that the dishwasher had to be pulled out of the cabinet which required the water inlet hose to be removed (and water to the hose to be shut off). Once the dishwasher was free of the cabinet it had to be flipped over to reach the water inlet valve. Once the valve was replaced go in reverse to reinstall the dishwasher. Worked fine after I got everything installed; no leaks.

removed front panel and replaced new part. Timer did not work because plug kept disconnecting. Called GE service and watched him remove panel without removing control panel. Plug for timer can be installed easily and front panel replaced without disturbing cable.

Replaced the part by taking off the srews on the inside of the dishwasher door (all of them)to get to the backside of the soap dispenser. Remove an electrical connector by pulling (had to pull off using pliers as it was really on there). Then a couple of screws hold to to the inside of the door. Pretty straight forward.

On the Model PDW9880, there are about 14 screws to be removed. I used a large Phillips driver and a pair of needle nose pliers. You cannot use a cordless drill driver for about 10 of the screws unless you have a long bit, as the 10 screws are so close to the body of the dishwasher door that the chuck of the drill will not clear. At the top of the door there are two screws on either side of the latch. The two screws are attached to white plastic blocks that serve as a lip to hold the outer door to the liner. It took a little wrestling with the two plastic blocks to slide them out from under the lip, releasing the outer door. Be sure not to let the outer door drop away, as it will tug on the ribbon cables that connect the display to the dishwasher. Keep a towel or sponge handy to keep the
dishwasher handle from resting on the tile floor. There were 4 electrical connections, including two ribbon cables, both of which just pulled out. I needed a needle nose pliers to remove the 2 spade connectors from the detergent dispenser solenoid, in order to pull on the connector, not tug on the wire. The entire repair is actually pretty straightforward and easy. It took 40 minutes, doing it slowly and carefully. But please don't tell anyone that it is easy, because my wife thinks it was an extremely complex repair, involving the risk of high voltage electricity.

The replacement part fits different makes and models, and does not have any brand identification, other than the Cascade logo cast into the front. Other than that, it appears to be identical to the original. Note: The
soap cup does not open for several minutes in the cycle, so don’t waste time or frustrate yourself (as I did) by checking the dispenser during the first 10 minutes of the cycle. Incidentally, although the company is in Canada, my part shipped from Central California (Fresno) and arrived in the Los Angeles area the next business day.

I had a small leak from under the dishwasher which turned out to be a tiny hole in the Pump Connector. With the power off I pulled the dishwasher out of the cabinet and disconnected the water and drain lines to give me more room. I put the dishwasher on its back to have access to the pump assembly. A couple of nut drivers and the pump connector is accessible. Replaced the pump connector and over tightened it "Crack"... had to replace the Main Conduit connector ($50). I was able to turn a simple $20 repair into a $70 repair. Now that's talent!

The quiet power 3 has the heating element in the back, so remove the screws holding the unit in place. Remove the bottom cover and disconnect the water inlet pipe, (after turning off the water of course). Discard the copper tubing if applicable, and pull dishwasher out until you can tilt it forward. Unsrew the plastic nuts and remove the wires for the element. Test the old one to make sure that you need to replace it. When sure of the problem reinstall in the reverse order. Replace the copper with stainless steel braided line and test.

very happy with the product and fast shipping. removed kick plate from dishwasher, inlet valve was on the front left bottom slid out dishwasher removed two screws and disconnected water line,and installed new inlet valve,very simple job if your somewhat handy,make sure you use thred sealant on water line when re installing

Shut off water, disconnect drain line from disposer. Remove dishwasher from wall and remove water feed line. Unplug or disconnect power to unit. Remove upper and lower dish racks as well as lower water sprayer bar, and filters. Lay dishwasher down on backside (make sure to catch water with bowl). Disconnect pump connector with nut driver and replace. Stand dishwasher back up and reverse removal process

remove front lower cover, 2 philips screws, turn off water supply under kitchen sink to dish washer, turn off power to dish washer, remove water supply line to valve, remove power to valve, clip ons, remove two 5/16" screws holding valve on, turn valve gently to access clip holding washer supply hose, push clip up hose and hold hose while pulling valve off. re-install in reverse order, a flash light helps.

Replacing the soap dispenser was relatively easy, But a word of caution.when I removed the front panel, as it fell off, it pulled the electrical tape out of the door. That of course ruined the electrical panel. Even better, that panel is no longer made. So unless you really want a new dishwasher, be sure you support the front panel when removing. Probably the easiest way to do that (I found out later) is to sit on the floor with the front panel on your legs as youminscrew it. Do read other reviews about how to do the repair as the part comes with no instructions and GE is of virtually no help.

I read some other fixes on this site. I received the new gasket folded it in half and just pressed it into the channel. Super easy fix.

Just pop them in and you are done, less than a minute to install both lids.

I opened the box, cut open the plastic air bag, and put the part where it belonged in about 5 seconds. Saved me gas, phone calls, service call, time, anyone can do this stuff! I am a female with memory problems, but I did it all with no help! Thanks for the on-line service! Sandra

Was so easy my wife did it made my day.