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GLD5660V00SS
GLD5660V00SS General Electric Dishwasher
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$9.17
This door recess spring or dispenser lever spring in your refrigerator is used to return the ice door to the closed position or the dispenser lever to the home position once released. You will find th...
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This part releases the detergent and rinse aid into the dishwasher.
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$43.82
This water inlet valve is an authentic OEM part for your dishwasher. If can be found behind the lower kickplate panel in either the left or right corner. The valve has a solenoid that opens or closes ...
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$31.77
This is a basket for washing flatware or silverware in your dishwasher.
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$39.33
This is a handle actuator for your dishwasher. It is made of black plastic, and is sold individually. The handle actuator is found in the control panel, and it releases the door latch when you lift th...
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$20.84
This switch interlock is found on your dishwasher door, and it must be actuated for the dishwasher to start. If your dishwasher door does not close properly, or if the machine will not start, you may ...
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$40.29
This is the tub gasket replacement for your dishwasher. The tub gasket fits around the perimeter of the door and forms a seal that prevents the dishwasher from leaking when it is filled with water. If...
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$40.14
The circulation pump adapter, or pump adapter assembly connects the circulation pump to the tub of your dishwasher. If your dishwasher is leaking around this adapter, check the connection to ensure ev...
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$11.42
This is a replacement spring plunger for your dishwasher. The spring is approximately 1 inch in length and is sold individually. The spring plunger helps your door latch correctly, and if the spring i...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for GLD5660V00SS
Viewing 19 of 19Leaking
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Door latch failure
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Not cleaning dishes properly
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Will Not Start
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How to fix it
Will not dispense detergent
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Will not drain
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How to fix it
Will not fill with water
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How to fix it
Not draining
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How to fix it
Noisy
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How to fix it
Door Sweating
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How to fix it
Not drying dishes properly
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How to fix it
Ice maker won’t dispense ice
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Door won’t close
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Door won’t open or close
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Frost buildup
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How to fix it
Not dispensing water
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Freezer section too warm
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How to fix it
Ice maker not making ice
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How to fix it
Freezer not defrosting
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How to fix it
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- Trent from Shreveport, LA
- Parts Used:
- WH23X10028
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Washing machine would cease functioning at the spin cycle and would not drain.
Remove the front coverfrom the machine. This is done by removing the 3 screws at the bottom of the panel. The panel then drops down and pulls straight off. The pump is located on the front right wall of the of the machine. You will notice a 2-3 inch diamete threaded cap on the right side of the front wall of the machine. This is the f
... Read more
ront of the pump and access to the filter. Place a large bucket under this cap and slowly loosen the cap. All of the water remaining in the machine will begin to drain (this could be a lot of water. Do not remove the cap completely so that you can quickly stop the flow of water if needed). Once all water is drained from the appliance, Disconnect the two hoses from the pump using a pair of pliers to looses the presure clamps, sliding the clamps back an then pulling off the hoses (be careful of any remaining water in the hoses). Then remove the two screws from the rear base of the pump that secure it to the bottom floor panel of the washer. Slide the pump slightly to the rear to free it from the fittings on the front wall of the machine and the lift the pump up. At this point, firmly pull out the wiring harness plugged into the top right side of the pump. Install the new pump by plugging in the wiring harness and resecuring the pump. Plug in the machine and run on the rinse and spin cycle to test.
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- Customer:
- James from Naperville, IL
- Parts Used:
- WD12X10163
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
soap door latch broken, wouldn't hold soap for later release in middle of cycle like it was supposed to.
Turned off power to unit, 'cuz it has a solenoid lead to open the soap door.
Removed the phillips head screws that held the door together. The screw are located on the inside edge of the door, there are 10-12 of them.
Spearated the door shells carefully, trying not to disturb the location of the wiring in the middle of the doo ... Read more r.
Found the 4 screws that hold the module assembly to the door from the inside, and removed them.
Popped the assembly out, cleaned the gasket-seat area and placed the new one in place.
Carefully tightened the 4 screws. It is easy to over-tighten them, so only turn them until you feel they are snug. Let the gasket do the work.
Attached the two solenoid control wires in the same positions they were in before they were removed from the old assembly.
Re-assembled the door halves, again taking care to not over-tighten the phillips-head screws. One got "spun" and I removed it and re-set it into some epoxy.
Returned power to the dishwasher, and stopped washing dishes by hand.
Note: the latch is now made with a plastic that is more dense, and likely will not fail as soon as the original one did. I think GE learned something about the durability of their component plastics since this was originally built.
Removed the phillips head screws that held the door together. The screw are located on the inside edge of the door, there are 10-12 of them.
Spearated the door shells carefully, trying not to disturb the location of the wiring in the middle of the doo ... Read more r.
Found the 4 screws that hold the module assembly to the door from the inside, and removed them.
Popped the assembly out, cleaned the gasket-seat area and placed the new one in place.
Carefully tightened the 4 screws. It is easy to over-tighten them, so only turn them until you feel they are snug. Let the gasket do the work.
Attached the two solenoid control wires in the same positions they were in before they were removed from the old assembly.
Re-assembled the door halves, again taking care to not over-tighten the phillips-head screws. One got "spun" and I removed it and re-set it into some epoxy.
Returned power to the dishwasher, and stopped washing dishes by hand.
Note: the latch is now made with a plastic that is more dense, and likely will not fail as soon as the original one did. I think GE learned something about the durability of their component plastics since this was originally built.
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- Customer:
- Jason from Jersey City, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WD05X10010
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
Heating element rusted and cracked
The hardest part for me was pulling the dishwasher out from under the countertop. Once it is out all you have to do is disconnect the power (or power off the fuse going to the dishwasher) then look underneath the dishwasher and you will see where the two ends of the heating element come through. Disconnect the wires connected to the ends
... Read more
by simply sliding off the connector. Then remove the plastic "nuts" that screw onto the ends of the heating element by turning them counterclockwise counterclockwise. Once the nuts are removed you can reach inside the dishwasher and remove the old heating element and replace it with the new one. Then simply replace the plastic nuts and reconnect the wires and you are good to go.
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