GLD5660V00SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Replaced pumped with new pump and now its not leaking and dishwasher is working great now.

Remove the door panel screws on the inside door frame. You only need to remove as many as needed to remove the larger bottom panel. The other screws will remove the upper button panel and this is not necassary. Unplug the Detergent Dispenser (it may take some force, and unscrew the dispencer. Replace with the new one, screw back in place, and reattatch the plug. Now replace the door panel and screw it back in place. This is all very simple. The only problem I encountered was that the only dispenser had built up so much detergent residue around its base, that it had distorted the plastic around it. This caused the new dispense to not sit flush all the way around, and the dishwasher leaked into the door on its first cycle. Simply filling the gap with 100% silicon caulk has fixed the problem. Washes like new.

I unscrewed the screws in the door of the dishwasher. Then pulled the inside part of the door up and unscrewed the 6 screws that held the dispenser. I am not sure the correct name of the part but it is on the backside of the dispenser and is red and it is where the wires connect to it, that was probably the most difficult part, disconnecting the plastic covers from the old dispenser. I used a butter knife to pop it out and then was able to get a better grip to pull them off. I pushed the wires on the new red thing and then put the new dispenser in place. You have to make sure that the dispenser is in the right spot and the brace on the underside of the inside part of the door, is in the correct place, otherwise, you will have a leak. Which is what happened to me. I just unscrewed and opened it again and screwed the screws tighter and it was fine.

Open dishwasher. Remove the screws on plastic cover of door. To cover off back of plunger replaced with new one. Reinstalled screws in door and everything worked

Open the door and go along entire edge of door and use Philipps to unscrew the front panel of the door from the inside panel of the door. Once unscrewed open carefully. There are screws in the dispenser cup. Undo those and then there are two plugs to be undone. There is also the main black computer component that has to be unplugged from its cord. Just remove and screw everything back the way it was. This was my first time and I am a female age 58 years old. It was simple. If I had to do it again I could do it in less than half the time.

we followed the instructions as posted on your web site. Once the dishwasher was apart it was self explanatory. We did however need pliers to separate the wires from the old soap dispenser.

NOTE I have classified this is a DIFFICULT JOB, but NOT because of the mechanics involved [including the electrical connectors UN-plugging and re-plugging, BUT DUE to the ANALYSIS you need to do to determine whether the SOAP DISH PART or the CONTROLLER is at fault. And this ANALYSIS will probably require you to get into the DISHWASHER DOOR twice. Once to do the analysis and then again to replace whatever part you target. Being you will want to continue to use the DISHWASHER by manually dropping the soap door [or just soap] at the appropriate time in the cycle, while awaiting the new part, which means you have re-button up the door and take it apart again when the new part arrives. . Before starting, view PartSelect's VIDEO on replacing the SOAP DISPENSER, but ignore THE STEPS OF REMOVING AND REPLACING THE SOAP DISPENSER.PART, at this time. The analysis starts with MANUALLY trying to activate the mechanical soap door release on the back of the mounted SOAP DISPENSER, with the soap door closed. It should take only ounces of downward pressure [towards the door hinge] on the vertical plastic piece in a channel near the center of the dispenser, to release the soap door. Next if you have access to an OHM METER {or MULTIMETER} or a DC POWER SUPPLY [to test the the activation of the door release] pull the two connectors on the SOAP DISH SOLENOID [a set pointed pliers will be helpful, as outlined in the VIDEO]. If measuring the SOLENOID's resistance it should read roughly 1800 OHMS. If using a DC POWER SUPPLY, you will probably need at least 25 volts DC to trigger the SOLENOID [NOTE I do not have a variable DC POWER SUPPLY to check it out nor do I know the voltage that the DISHWASHER uses]. Do not bother to measure the resistance of CONTROLLER's driving circuitry [the two wires having connectors], as it will read INFINITY, regardless of whether GOOD or BAD, The CONTROLLER apparently uses a RELAY on this circuit, as opposed to some kind of solid state switch. Replug the SOLENOID connectors. Re-buttoned up the DISHWASHER as shown in the VIDEO, assuming you are going to continue using it If you determine no problems in the above tests, then consider it a CONTROLLER pro0blem and you will need to order one. Otherwise you should have found indications of a SOAP DISPENSER PROBLEM. . When the replacement part arrives and you ready to install it, refer again to PartSelect's VIDEO on replacing the Soap Dish Dispenser for a refresher Following the VIDEO completely, if you replacing the DISPENSER. If you are replacing the CONTROLLER, once inside the DOOR, you will need to remove around 6 individual electrical connectors [before doing ANYTHING REMOVE POWER from the DISHWASHER [as instructed in the VIDEO}. These connectors [all but any single wire connectors] are designed to be plugged only one specific way, so when re-plugging NEVER FORCE a connection, The best way to make sure you do not get confused, take a picture of all the connectors -OR- make notes on the looks and orientation of each multi-wire connector. There is one mounting screw on right side of the CONTROLLER. When installing the new CONTROLLER there are mounting EARS on the left side that are first engaged by having the CONTROLLER tilted up on the right side. Replace the mounting screw. Replugged all the connectors using whatever guide you made. Proceed to put the DOOR back together as outlined in the VIDEO.

I was offered a free dishwasher for the taking. The soap dispenser latch was broken. I ordered the part, it arrived two days later by standard delivery. The door cover has to be opened and seperated. The difficulty is that the door will not stay down or up without assistance. Once open, the dispenser is replaced by removing 6 screws from within the door compartment (between the door front cover and inside door wall. Two electrical leads must be removed and reconected to the new part. Removing them is problematic, since one connecter partially chipped off using pliers to gain a grip. After inserting the new part the 6 screws are installed from behind the part and the leads reconnected. There are two ribbon connectors for the control panel and display. They did not come loose so I left them connected, which made it awkward to manipulate the various parts with the door split open. Putting the ribbons in proper place was easy if careful. Securing the outside and inside halves of the door completes the repair. I found instructions on google. This was tricky but easy, as the door parts were often trying to move out of an accessible position for working. Otherwise it was one of the easiest things I have done. It would be easier with two people, and I had only one good arem to work with due to shoulder surgery, but it was successful. The dishwasher works fine, and the price was right at $45.00 in parts plus shipping for a top of the line model.

after removing the inside of the door and removing the screws that hold the despenser installing the new one I found that the door now leaked.Itdid not seat properly due to the new unit not seating properly are I had damaged the door panel. I then bought a tube of silicone and sealed the back and front of the despencer and now it works ok. short bottom door seal was returned when I found the leak was around the despenser

Used needle nose pliers to get them off.G

Cut power and water flow to the appliance. Laid appliance on its side, removed the electrical lead from the motor. Remove the mount from the back of the motor and loosened the two clamps- one to the sump and one to the discharge tube. Removed and replaced the pump/motor assy. with the new one, reinstalled the clamps, rear mount and electrical lead. Righted the unit and fired it up. Worked fine.

We noticed our detergent door was not opening on cue to dispense the soap and it was leaving our dishes dirty. It came to be that our spring was sprung on the detergent door. I researched it and I could either buy the spring or the whole detergent contraption (installing the contraption was one wrench easier but cost $35 more). Knowing my husband the way I do, I decided to do the more costly route. I followed the instructions from previous installers on here and me and my husband did it in 30 minutes! I do agree that it is a two man job for some of it as I stressed to him NOT to take the front off haphazardly, as it was $400 to replace that! We took the 12 or so screws off, detached the line to the detergent dispenser, reattached, screwed it into the door and replaced the front 12 or so screws again. Easy peasy! Unbelieveable!

Water was leaking from under refer next to installed under counter dishwasher. Once determined to be dishwasher not refer I removed dishwasher toe place was able to see dripping inlet solenoid valve. I had to disconnect 11V power, shut off inlet water, disconnect inlet water house and remove dishwasher from under counter. Once dishwasher was in center of kitchen I flipped it upside down and removed the electric solenoid inlet valve. Removing the valve took one wrench to remove inlet hose then two wrenches to remove 90 degree brass fitting and another to hold solenoid. I used a nut drive to remove two screws that released the solenoid from the dishwasher frame. I used teflon tape to reattached the 90 degree brass fitting and inlet hose.

Replaced wax motor and soap dispenser (all one piece). Only problem was the plastic seal on the very bottom of door had come unseated, and therefore was leaking. You need to check that it is snapped all the way in, and then the leak ceased. Took me a few tries, which made a ten minute repair into an hour long one.

I checked for power coming into the dishwasher and up to the main boards using a voltage sensing device which emitted a sound when voltage was present. So initially, I presumed that power to the dishwasher was good. I then replaced the switch interlocks for the door lock, but the dishwasher remained dead. Then I used the multimeter to check the exact volts coming into the main boards and found it was only 39 volts. Next I checked the plug which supplies this power and found a bad connection in the plug. A screw was loose for the neutral wire. I tightened up the screw and with good power, everything worked.