MAT10PDEGW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Used the Butter knife to push in the clips on the front panel of the washing machine. Remove the two screws from the top. Remove the metal plate on the back. Lifted up the top and unscrewed the old Fill Injector and removed hose. Connected new Fill Injector to hose with new hose clamp. Attached Fill injector with screw to top of washer lid. Replaced all screws. Checked for leaks. Good to go!

The PartSelect video was awesome in giving me confidence. The step by step instructions worked well until....

Calcium carbonate buildup on the reverse threaded spanner nut locked it in place such that I couldn't break it free.

I tried muratic (hydrochloric) acid which removed the surface scale nicely. But, no impact on allowing the nut to be pounded free. I then used a dremmel drill bit to vertically drill holes into the nut cross section. This allowed me to tap in a cold chisel and then pry the nut apart. Unfortunately, I had to repeat this for the second spanner nut as well.

Note, the first nut threads on the second part of the tub seal kit. So, drill away. You will not need these threads. however, the second set of threads you need to be carefull not to mess up. By drilling verically you can remove most of the cross section and cold chisel the rest without damaging the shaft threads. Second note: gently tap /wedge the cold chisel into your drilled out area. you don't want to hit hard and risk the ball bearings/raceway from getting ruined. Use the cold chisel to pry apart the aluminum stem hub. Its cast, so it will break pretty easily.

Net, the video allowed me to complete a project that exploded views, etc. would never have! The frozen nuts aside, this was an easy job that WORKED! No more leaks.

I followed an the online video and the repair, my first stem seal repair, went fine. Kudos to PartSelect. The parts arrived in 3 days normal delivery. I saved $500 by not buying a new washer!

Loosened the hose coupling, removed the old washer and strainer; cleaned the opening; flushed the opening; installed new strainer and washer; reattached hose and "Bob's your uncle"! No problem.

First unplug the unit. Removed the front panel. Removed the two hex head bolts from under the top at hte front right and left corners. Tip the top back. Unsnap the cover being carefull on the tabs. Loosten the set screw (bolt) on the bottom of the agitator and remove. Unscrew the retaining ring. Remember reverse thread. remove flange under that. lift out inner tub. Loosten the set screw (torx) on seal and unscrew reverse thread also. Remove rubber seal boot. Clean all surfaces and reverse the steps.

I followed the others directions and it's important to note that both nuts involed are indeed left handed threads. Also the it's important to know that[at least on my machine] that the set screw on the agitator is a torx headed set srew, not an allen srew. Other than that it was a pretty quick fix.

After removing the front cover and draining the tub, I replaced the drain pump and the washer works as good as new.

I was only missing one of the bumpers but that was in pretty poor shape so I replaced them both. It didn't take much to do. Just pressed the bumper into place and Viola! instant gratification.

First I removed the front of the washing machine and removed the two bolts that held the top in place. I then replaced the spring. The spring was a little tricky because I had to use a screwdriver to stretch the spring enough to fit.

I tried to get an appointment with our local appliance repair company, but they cancelled and wouldn't reschedule at a convenient time, so I decided to do it myself. Determined that the Mounting Stem/Tub Seal kit was the needed part and ordered it here. Also had to order the specialty spanner wrench from another website. Parts were delivered in a timely manner. The online video was very helpful and the removal and replacement of the defective part went smoothly. The only problem with the actual repair was with removing the old tub seal gasket -- it took quite a bit of coaxing to get it free. The new parts went in with no problems. However, we have an older model than the one shown in the video -- it has the metal tub top cover with the rubber gasket and ring clamp. This cover is tricky to replace properly. It has to be at just the right height to avoid interference with the spinning inner tub (too low) or with the washer lid (too high). You also have to make sure that the rubber gasket it not twisted or crimped by the ring clamp. It took me three tries to get this just right. After that, everything worked fine and the leak is fixed.

I hastily (miss diagnosed) the symptoms by assuming that the Drain Pump was in fault, Ordered the Drain Pump part online on Sunday got it early on Wednesday. Installed the Drain Pump but the timer would not move. So back to drawing board. Got on the phone with the nice people on PartSelect ordered the Lid Switch Assembly. Got the part in less than 20 hours To install the Lid Switch assembly remove the back panel by removing 3 sheet metal screws at the top and 2 at the bottom now you will have access to all the wires and the Lid Switch Assembly. It is attached with one sheet metal screw. The hole in the Assembly is slotted so you may have to slide it back and forth for the switch to get activated when you open the door. Installed the part, plugged the washer machine in filled the tank. The washer machine came alive the timer was moving (the washer machine start working again). This washer machine should be good for another 20 years. By the way this was the first breakdown on this washer machine after 20 years of service. Thanks PartSelect for well trained people and prompt service I couldn't have done it with out your help.

Removed access panel on back of machine to remove Air Tube where it connects to wash basin. Removed control panel cover on top of machine and front panel of machine so top could be lifted for easier access to the point where Air Tube plugs in to water level selector switch. Tube is attached at both ends via spring clips. Replaced tube; problem solved. As a note, the old tube was clogged, and once cleaned, the machine functioned normally again. I had already ordered the replacement so I installed it in place of the old tube when it arrived. The new tube is significantly longer but functions perfectly.

Emptied washing machine tub with a small plastic bowl into a 5 gallon bucket, finihsing up last bit of water by soaking it up with towels. I next removed front panel on washing machine by unscrewing two screws on the bottom front, left and right, to gain access to the pump. Loosened two hose clamps and detached two hoses, catching remining water from washertub. moved washer out from wall about 3 feet and tilted washer back towards wall so I could access the inderneath of washer to lossen three bolts that held pump in place. removed belt from pum to motor and examined fro glaze or wear (none detected) and then removed pum and reversed steps to install new pump, reinstalling belt faily loosly, per instructions. Tried washer to see if ssue resolved and once confirmed, replaced the front panel. Have done multiple washes since then (at least 10) and no further issues. Very economical solution (under $100) and sense of pride with fixing applianmce myself. This web page was very informative and saved me a lot of money and time. Thanks!

I followed the instructions from the video on the site. It went more difficult than the video showed but it was due to the washer. The instructions were very good. The only really difficult step was taking the bearing sleeve off of the transmission shaft. I ended up with a Dremmel tool and cutting it off. It only took 5 minutes, if that long. The washer has run very well since the repair.

Put the parts on as described in your on-line videos. Was never able to get the metal sleeve off the old machine while installing the Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit. I didn't want to cut the sleeve for fear that I wouldn't be able to install the new one and ruin the machine. Video needs to address that issue more fully. Chances are that if these parts need replaced, then the sleeve will be as tight as ours - they won't just slide off like the video shows.