MAT10PDEGW Maytag Washer - Instructions

I was only missing one of the bumpers but that was in pretty poor shape so I replaced them both. It didn't take much to do. Just pressed the bumper into place and Viola! instant gratification.

The PartSelect video was awesome in giving me confidence. The step by step instructions worked well until....

Calcium carbonate buildup on the reverse threaded spanner nut locked it in place such that I couldn't break it free.

I tried muratic (hydrochloric) acid which removed the surface scale nicely. But, no impact on allowing the nut to be pounded free. I then used a dremmel drill bit to vertically drill holes into the nut cross section. This allowed me to tap in a cold chisel and then pry the nut apart. Unfortunately, I had to repeat this for the second spanner nut as well.

Note, the first nut threads on the second part of the tub seal kit. So, drill away. You will not need these threads. however, the second set of threads you need to be carefull not to mess up. By drilling verically you can remove most of the cross section and cold chisel the rest without damaging the shaft threads. Second note: gently tap /wedge the cold chisel into your drilled out area. you don't want to hit hard and risk the ball bearings/raceway from getting ruined. Use the cold chisel to pry apart the aluminum stem hub. Its cast, so it will break pretty easily.

Net, the video allowed me to complete a project that exploded views, etc. would never have! The frozen nuts aside, this was an easy job that WORKED! No more leaks.

I followed an the online video and the repair, my first stem seal repair, went fine. Kudos to PartSelect. The parts arrived in 3 days normal delivery. I saved $500 by not buying a new washer!

First unplug the unit. Removed the front panel. Removed the two hex head bolts from under the top at hte front right and left corners. Tip the top back. Unsnap the cover being carefull on the tabs. Loosten the set screw (bolt) on the bottom of the agitator and remove. Unscrew the retaining ring. Remember reverse thread. remove flange under that. lift out inner tub. Loosten the set screw (torx) on seal and unscrew reverse thread also. Remove rubber seal boot. Clean all surfaces and reverse the steps.

Loosened the hose coupling, removed the old washer and strainer; cleaned the opening; flushed the opening; installed new strainer and washer; reattached hose and "Bob's your uncle"! No problem.

I followed the others directions and it's important to note that both nuts involed are indeed left handed threads. Also the it's important to know that[at least on my machine] that the set screw on the agitator is a torx headed set srew, not an allen srew. Other than that it was a pretty quick fix.

After removing the front cover and draining the tub, I replaced the drain pump and the washer works as good as new.

First I removed the front of the washing machine and removed the two bolts that held the top in place. I then replaced the spring. The spring was a little tricky because I had to use a screwdriver to stretch the spring enough to fit.

I took the front panel off and was able to easily access and remove the leaking drain pump. Then I propped the front of the washer up onto some boards so that I could put the two pulleys back onto the new pump, then I just tightened the three bolts in order to tighten the pulleys. However,when I started another load of wash there was a leak in the bottom of the tub, so I removed the new pump and went out and bought a new washer, figuring that our 13-year-old Maytag was going to cost more to fix than to buy a new washer. Then I wrapped up the new pump and sent it back. Thanks for all your help and for letting me send back the new part...I received confirmation of my refund today. Bob Trautman

Pump was eazy to replace the clean up took longer than the fix.

Removed access panel on back of machine to remove Air Tube where it connects to wash basin. Removed control panel cover on top of machine and front panel of machine so top could be lifted for easier access to the point where Air Tube plugs in to water level selector switch. Tube is attached at both ends via spring clips. Replaced tube; problem solved. As a note, the old tube was clogged, and once cleaned, the machine functioned normally again. I had already ordered the replacement so I installed it in place of the old tube when it arrived. The new tube is significantly longer but functions perfectly.

Actuator spring for the lid switch broke. Removed the lid by prying it from the top of the machine. The lid is secured by two plastic balls on either side. Removed the actuator switch screws and slid the actuator assembly out over the washer drum. Replaced the spring and reassembled the actuator to the machine. Put vaseline on each plastic ball to hold them in place while I snapped the lid back on to the machine top.

The water pulley wheel kept seperating from the pulley shaft after numberous attempts with plumbers glue, the problem kept repeating therefor replacement was necessary. After ordering the part it was able to be replaced with the new pump and fast, washer running like new. Thank you so much.

1. Removed the front panel from the washing machine. This entailed removing two phillips head screws on the bottom left and right of the panel. Then, I pulled the bottom of the panel out and up until the top of the panel was disengaged from the machine. 2. Noted the belt tension on the old pump so I could install the new one correctly with the same tension. 3. Removed the two hoses from the pump, and the three screws securing the pump to the washer. 4. Installed the new pump providing the belt the same tension as I observed on the old pump. 5. Installed the hoses and tightened the hose clamps. 6. Reistalled the front panel and ran the washer. Works fine!

I removed 2 Philips head screws from bottom of front cover and removed cover. Tilted washer back and installed a 6' wooden block under washer. removed 3 hex head screws from pump base using my flex shaft nut driver and a 5/16" socket. Removed the 2 hose clamps from pump and lifted pump out. Pump appeared to be ok but checking by turning the pulley I found the impeller did not turn, shaft key must be sheared. The new pump came the next day at 2:00 PM and it was an exact replacement. Installed and up and running in about 15 min. Working fine.