MAT10PDEGW Maytag Washer - Instructions

I was only missing one of the bumpers but that was in pretty poor shape so I replaced them both. It didn't take much to do. Just pressed the bumper into place and Viola! instant gratification.

Followed instructions, those were OK.
Dishwasher front still leaking

Loosened the hose coupling, removed the old washer and strainer; cleaned the opening; flushed the opening; installed new strainer and washer; reattached hose and "Bob's your uncle"! No problem.

I followed the others directions and it's important to note that both nuts involed are indeed left handed threads. Also the it's important to know that[at least on my machine] that the set screw on the agitator is a torx headed set srew, not an allen srew. Other than that it was a pretty quick fix.

I followed an the online video and the repair, my first stem seal repair, went fine. Kudos to PartSelect. The parts arrived in 3 days normal delivery. I saved $500 by not buying a new washer!

First unplug the unit. Removed the front panel. Removed the two hex head bolts from under the top at hte front right and left corners. Tip the top back. Unsnap the cover being carefull on the tabs. Loosten the set screw (bolt) on the bottom of the agitator and remove. Unscrew the retaining ring. Remember reverse thread. remove flange under that. lift out inner tub. Loosten the set screw (torx) on seal and unscrew reverse thread also. Remove rubber seal boot. Clean all surfaces and reverse the steps.

After removing the front cover and draining the tub, I replaced the drain pump and the washer works as good as new.

First I removed the front of the washing machine and removed the two bolts that held the top in place. I then replaced the spring. The spring was a little tricky because I had to use a screwdriver to stretch the spring enough to fit.

The water pulley wheel kept seperating from the pulley shaft after numberous attempts with plumbers glue, the problem kept repeating therefor replacement was necessary. After ordering the part it was able to be replaced with the new pump and fast, washer running like new. Thank you so much.

1. Removed the front panel from the washing machine. This entailed removing two phillips head screws on the bottom left and right of the panel. Then, I pulled the bottom of the panel out and up until the top of the panel was disengaged from the machine. 2. Noted the belt tension on the old pump so I could install the new one correctly with the same tension. 3. Removed the two hoses from the pump, and the three screws securing the pump to the washer. 4. Installed the new pump providing the belt the same tension as I observed on the old pump. 5. Installed the hoses and tightened the hose clamps. 6. Reistalled the front panel and ran the washer. Works fine!

Emptied washing machine tub with a small plastic bowl into a 5 gallon bucket, finihsing up last bit of water by soaking it up with towels. I next removed front panel on washing machine by unscrewing two screws on the bottom front, left and right, to gain access to the pump. Loosened two hose clamps and detached two hoses, catching remining water from washertub. moved washer out from wall about 3 feet and tilted washer back towards wall so I could access the inderneath of washer to lossen three bolts that held pump in place. removed belt from pum to motor and examined fro glaze or wear (none detected) and then removed pum and reversed steps to install new pump, reinstalling belt faily loosly, per instructions. Tried washer to see if ssue resolved and once confirmed, replaced the front panel. Have done multiple washes since then (at least 10) and no further issues. Very economical solution (under $100) and sense of pride with fixing applianmce myself. This web page was very informative and saved me a lot of money and time. Thanks!

First I took out the back plate of the control panel on the top of the washer. There were 3 Philips head screws on the top and 2 either 1/4 inch or 5/16 screws on the bottom. once the back panel was open it was all a matter a finding the screw that held the lower fill injector in place and unscrewing it since the tab on the other side had already broken off. When replacing the new lower fill injector I suggest moving the wash basin as far back as possible to get enough working space under the control panel. the tab on the right side might be a little tight going in but as long as you can get it so that the screw will fit on the other side it will hold.

I watched a utube video showing how to do the job. It was simple considering I am not mechanically gifted. The whole job took about 20 minutes. The hardest part of the job was moving the dryer out of the way first.

I removed 2 Philips head screws from bottom of front cover and removed cover. Tilted washer back and installed a 6' wooden block under washer. removed 3 hex head screws from pump base using my flex shaft nut driver and a 5/16" socket. Removed the 2 hose clamps from pump and lifted pump out. Pump appeared to be ok but checking by turning the pulley I found the impeller did not turn, shaft key must be sheared. The new pump came the next day at 2:00 PM and it was an exact replacement. Installed and up and running in about 15 min. Working fine.

Actuator spring for the lid switch broke. Removed the lid by prying it from the top of the machine. The lid is secured by two plastic balls on either side. Removed the actuator switch screws and slid the actuator assembly out over the washer drum. Replaced the spring and reassembled the actuator to the machine. Put vaseline on each plastic ball to hold them in place while I snapped the lid back on to the machine top.