MAT10PDEGW Maytag Washer - Instructions

new replacement water pump leaked where plastic housing upper and lower halves were bonded, presumably with glue. As a quick fix I wrapped pump with some 3M 4411N sealing tape. Seems to have stopped or really slowed leak. I was going to get another new pump but now worried it will leak as well so going to see how long tape fix works..

Top came off quickly with socket wrench. Removed gasket in about a minute. Spent 45 minutes getting grime ( soap and lime) off of top. Took five minutes to replace gasket.

Haven't been able to get front back on. Clips go on side rather than top. Found missing clip for which new one was purchased in transmission. Still haven't gotten front to stay on. Clips keep springing out.

Well I looked on line to see if there were any similialtys to my problem and followed what they had done on their washing machines. I replaced the water pump,the slide control below the motor,and the lid switch.None of these items worked.I called a tech.and he informed me that it sounds like the transmission is bad ,he is coming to my house tonight to take a look at the machine.

Followed the directions posted by another user. His tips were very important and helpful. At first we only ordered parts where it was leaking, then decided we might as well change the remaining parts as recommended by the other user in his description. This is the FIRST issue we have had in 19 years of use. Ordered the parts, received them quickly and correctly. Installed them and it works like a new machine. This Maytag will probably last another 19 years.

Looked online and found a video for the repair consistent with a water leak. Two screws to remove the front panel of the washer, loosen two hose clamps, remove belt (by hand) and three screws to remove old water pump. Replaced pump, replaced belt (made sure it was tight, but not too tight), replaced water hoses, placed cover back on the front and I was done. Maybe 15 minutes tops. Very, very easy. Works like a charm and saved probably $100 in labor.

Replaced the air tube, existing one had been chewed by mice was easy to replace and solved the issue

First I removed the two screws that held the front washer panel in place. Then I removed the two bolts that held the top on the washer. I then had to remove the four screws that held the top panel with the electrical parts in place in order to obtain access to the inside area where the screw was that held the fill injector was located. I next removed the screw that held the fill injector unit in place. I then pulled on the tab that held it in place and moved unit into a better place to replace the fill injector. I had previously cut the hose clamp during my investigation of the problem and replaced it with a pressure clamp. I then unscrewed the clamp, removed the bad fill injector and replaced with new fill injector. I then reversed the entire process to reassemble. The whole process turned out to be easier than I thought! The hardest part was diagnosing the problem in the first place.

I removed the two screws holding the switch and removed it from the machine. I then removed the broken spring and replaced it with the new one sent to me from partselect.com. I reinstalled the repaired switch and turned on the machine. It was easy as that and it works great. PartSelect.com is the best.

Repair not that complicated. Remove front, lean top back, remove agitator, remove special nut, remove inner tub, remove seal. Clean shaft and seal surfaces. It is highly recommended to the spanner wrench to remove the special nut. It appears one can do it with a punch and hammer, but the nut is too tight, and corroded from years of water exposure. I believe part number is TJ90TB123A, about $15. Watch the video on this web site, very good.

Viewed the very helpful video on your website, that spelled out all the steps to follow. The key point is to not forget the spanner nuts are left handed threads - even after noting that from the video, started the removal in the wrong direction, then caught my error and moved on through the disassembly process. In my case, I took time to deal with a lot of soap buildup cleanup in the outer tub, and even cleaned and put rust inhibiting paint on a few spots to try to get a little longer life out of the old machine. This repair cost far less than replacing it, and should get us several more years of service.

key to repair is to watch the video on mounting stem/tub seal as seen thru parts select. However, they use a nice new, clean,sanitized washer that may not reflect a 23 year old washer like mine. They give you the basics and it is invaluable to watch if you have never done this before. I strongly advise you buy a real spanner wrench made for your make. You may never need it again but it makes it much easier. Trying to use a punch or using a dremmel to operate on your large 'nuts' is, well, nuts! Get the wrench, just part of the cost of repair. See ebay. The first thing I noticed different between the video and my real life unit is the water hose connected to the washer, at the top of the tub cover. This did not exist in the video, but it is the way on my unit. So I did not disconnect it, just folded the top out of the way and tied it up. Then of course my real gripe with the video is that I have the old time band around the tub and the barrell, holding them together. They do not mate up very well and are not easy to put back together properly. In fact, installing the stem seals was easy and it fixed the original leak. I might add when you buy the replacement parts, you actually get 3 new parts. I suggest you use all the new parts in the package. You paid for them, you need them. Again the video only talks about replacing the very bottom seal, never mentioning the other parts they sold you in the bag. It is easy to figure out how to replace the other parts, they look like the ones you took off to get to the very bottom seal. Use all the new parts, regardless. So the only real issue is putting the band back on to hold the tub to the drum. We did not get it correct the first time and the unit would not spin, I had the top down too far. You could smell the rubber burning from the drive belt. They forgot to tell us about that!! Bums. So we loosened up the band, raised up the top piece and got it to spin. Of course, we did a large load, filled the water to the highest level allowed and when the unit hit the spin cycle, we got a leak from under the band. Thx video. To fix that we decided to never use the highest water level. So far so good. I can tell you the engineers failed on the design to mate up the cover to the tub. Other than that this can be done by us goobers, just take your time. And good luck. I must also thank my helper, neighbor John . for his added wisdom and support.

Found the parts I needed on your website along with a video that showed exactly how to do the repair. Set my iPad on the dryer and followed along step by step. Never would have tried something like this without your helpful information.

I replaced the 3 screws because they were rusty. Then I replaced the Drain pump

Then found agitator shaft was rusted to spin shaft. Worked on that for awhile. Motor then burnt out. I quit and bought new machine. I had ordered a top end seal from you guys. I trashed the machine before your seal arrived. Called you. Nice lady said she would send an E mail so I could return unused seal. That message has not arrived yet.
Pat Wehling

This washer was purchased in the early 1980s and is different from the one in the video and other repair instructions. You can recognize this earlier model by the agitator design. It only has the 4 paddles that start at the bottom and does not have the auger design on the upper part of the spindle as the newer ones do. While I was able to get the agitator to pop off by threading thin ropes under it and using a four-foot board as a lever, that was the end of my successful efforts. Even with the special tool and a five pound hammer, the lock nut would not budge -- even after overnight soaking in WD40. Yes, I did recognize the reverse threading. My next attempt would have been to heat the lock nut with a butane torch, but I gave up at this point and purchased a new washing machine on my way to pick up the torch. Would be curious to know if anyone else has had success with this older model as I saw other differences in the design that suggested that it may not have been compatible with this kit.