MAT10PDEGW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Wish there was a video. I am above average handy but this one- I might just pay someone next time...The tape on the threads was a great tip but took a while to understand what they meant by putting tape on the threads. Scraping off the old pads is easy for the front one but the back pad and a half is so hard to reach to really get it cleaned. Bruised and cut knuckles on that one. Then not having the glue for the pads was a surprise and you have to get a good contact type cement that sets in 10-15 minutes or you will be waiting hours to put it back together. It was easy to put the first spring on, then the second and third got harder and harder.

removed screws on front of washer, removed bolts holding top cover hinged back, nut driver to remove agitator, slipped agitator off, removed tub hoses, did not have special wrench to remove large nut on shaft, used punch and grinder to removed, had new large nut so wasn't concerned about damaging old one, pay attention to thread pattern to know how to turn, if you had special wrench job would be easier, removed spring bolts and took out inside drum and tub. cleaned corrosion and installed new seals, can be hard to slip on new seal, don't use grease, get dishwashing soap to use as lubricant to put on. Put back together and all is good.

Thinking the water pump was not doing its job in removing all of the water after the rinse cycle, I replaced the water pump.

1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove front cover (2 screws).
3. Pull belt and hoses off pump body (watch for water in drain hose!).
4. Remove 3 screws holding pump to bottom pan. 5. Reverse process with new pump.

This job is straighforward, and it helps to have 2 wood blocks to prop up the front of the washer.

Unfortunately, this didn't fix my problem. Actual cause of the water in the tub was a leaking inlet valve (solenoid assy).

Took front panel off. Ran machine. Pump is see-through. Could not see any "aeration" of the water in the pump and no water was coming out of drain hose. Disconnected electric. Disconnected hose from drum to pump(first emptied ALL water from drom)and drained in bucket. Disconnected drain hose from pump to drain and drained any water. Checked for obstructions in hoses. Removed pump. Checked belt (was fine after 14 years). Ordered new pump. Received the next day! Replaced pump and tighten belt. Connected hoses and test it. All OK. Replace panel and did laundry.

followed instructions elsewhere here. Procedure went flawlessly
To undo the nut I used a 1 1/2 " long x 5/16 bolt to hammer on.

STILL LEAKS. Needed PS2347235 =Tub Bearing Kit . Going back in...
THe remainder concerns the bearing procedure:
The 3 bolts holding the outer tub to the legs have rectangular washers. Those are not totally flat, and are marked for outside, top ... so pay attention. It might make a difference.
Outer tub came off the rubber bushing. Took some pulling the bushing off the shaft, and removing the sleeve bearing was a challenge at first, it would not move on the transmission shaft. Soaked with wd40 overnight. Drove it off with cold chisel (driving upward). For re-attaching the 3 tub bolts I used a ratchet tiedown strap to pull the 3 legs together to get enough thread to start, what with all those washers and things.
Ran spin cycle dry for 3 minutes as per instructions before filling with water. Success.

Thirty year old Maytag washer. Remove two screws at bottom of front panel with Philips screw driver. Hinge panel up to disconnect front panel from top of machine. Tilt washer back against wall to gain access to pulley at underside of washer. Then remove Philips head screw from bottom of center shaft. Remove bevel washer with screw. Remove stop block from end of center shaft and wind the pulley off center shaft. Clean center shaft of any debris and lightly coat with grease. Install belt on new pulley and motor, wind new pulley on center shaft. Replace stop block, washer, screw, and front cover.

It was fairly easy, start out by using a screwdriver and push down and out on the front cover and remove it. Take out the 2 small bolts that hold the top cover down to the sides and lift the top cover up and lean it back out of your way. On the bottom side of the agitator there is a small bolt that holds it down, loosen that bolt and pull the agitator out. The hardest part of the entire jod was to use a small chisel and hammer to take off the nut that holds the assembly down.Remember it has reverse threads,you have to use a chisel to back it off and use some WD40 to help remove the calsium build up that is around it. Once you get that large nut off, there is a set screw on the side of the assembly that you have to loosen up before you can take it off, it's a "star driver" head and not a allen wrench set screw.Just take your time and look at your new part and compare it with the old one and take your time and remember how you take the old part off,and you will not have any problem putting the new one on. This was the first time I ever worked on a washing machine, and by checking out the parts first and comparing everything,even someone that might not have much mechanical skills can change this out. My washer works fine and not a drop of water leaks anymore.One thing I did learn, if you change this part out and put it back together and try it out and it makes a funny sound and you smell something like its burning, you might did what I did. I thought I had it to tight, but I put the large nut on before I put the tub back on!!! The agitator was holding the tub down, but it could not spin in spin cycle.... Good luck with you repairs, you can do it.

It should have been extremely easy, but it was a little difficult because my laundry room is very small and I had extremely limited space to work in and also had limited lighting. However, after taking many minutes to strategically plan how to maneuver in the tiny space, I was able to loosen the giant clamp on the hose inside the washer and attach the new hose! It worked like a charm! My 25 year old Maytag is working again! The part came in a bag certified as a genuine Whirlpool part and looked exactly like the old one! No complaints! The online installation videos are wonderful!

I didn’t have special tool for brake but punch and hammer worked. Seal was easy to replace. Several videos online to show you how. It wasn’t worth it to tear apart the transmission and buy more parts/seals (if they were even available). But I didn’t know how much oil was in it. I drilled a hole in the side to somewhat check level and added 80-90 gear oil. It was almost empty and added almost a quart. Used a self taping screw/bolt with gasket sealer to plug the hole. I got 34 yrs out of this washer. If it fails, oh well. Just hate to buy a new one that only last 10yrs if im lucky.

Tried the water level control first. didn't fix it.
Then replaced the air tube for tub fill volume.

The thing here is that it didn't have a hole in it nor was it blocked where you couldn't blow through it.
The prolbem was that at the tub end it has a larger diameter and that was nearly filled with softener residue so it changed the air volume.
That reduced air volume caused the air pressure to be wrong to the water level sensor.
My most useful tool was a magnet mount flashligt inside the cabinet so I could see to get the hose back on.

Power cord out, of course.Popped off the front panel, swinging bottom outward. Wedge shaped protrusions on top of front panel work as a hinge until the bottom is swung out and the entire front lowered. Unscrewed the top--one screw in each front corner accessed from the front opening (removed panel). Panel behind control panel must be removed (5 hex head screws). Tilted front of top up revealing broken injector. Retaining screw for injector accessible from behind control panel loosened and broken injector assembly removed. New (easily assembled--snap together) injector slid into holding slot on one side and screwed down with previously removed hex screw. Reassemble in reverse.

First I had to hold the balls into the little holes on the side of the lid - one at a time- and tap the plastic ball into the side with a small hammer. I did the same with the other side. Silde the lid to match the holes located on the washing machine - give a little push to make sure that the balls are in place. You have your lid fixed to your machine where you can lift the lid and it will stay up without falling.

Note: If the balls fall out - make sure to tap a little harder so that the balls stay in place.

Removed washer tubs inner and outer nut (part # 10 ) on inner was hard to remove and is a reverse thread used hammer to loosen once off removed 1st tub - then removed set screw #17 and then unscrewed mounting s item #29 this again required some hammer tapping to loosen - once off used flat head screwdriver to pry & remove the rubber piece on bottom of outer or 2nd tub -but keep going as the leak will probably be from part #20 tub bearing ( this will save you the time to test and find out it still leaks and have to take apart again after only replacing #29 removed 3 bolts holding tub - disconnected hoses and removed 2nd tub - used rubber hammer to knock out and install #20 tub bearing - reasembled and wow no leaks to cost about $120 - time worked on 3 hrs - only because took apart 2 times - down time on washer 10 days as we didn't order all parts to start with no beer needed but did enjoy a nice red wine - good luck

The instructions were clear. Did every step. Did 2 loads so far and everything works like new.

I used two vise grip wrenches in place of specialized tool that is no longer available. I put the vice grip wrenches on the brake assembly and hit them alternately with a hammer. I also used penetrating oil.

Note, the parts package stated made in USA but the bearings had China stamped on them.