LA7500S Maytag Washer - Instructions

Loosened the hose coupling, removed the old washer and strainer; cleaned the opening; flushed the opening; installed new strainer and washer; reattached hose and "Bob's your uncle"! No problem.

Removed the four screws that hold the part and also loosened the screw for a cover. Moved cover to gain access to inside of machine. Removed broken piece and replaced. Tightened screws and replaced plate. No leaks.

Removed three screws - Disconnected both inlet water hoses-Disconnected 4 electric clips-Removed internal hose connection from the same unit- Reverse order in assembly.

Exactly as the video showed. This was a very simple repair. The only extra thing I did was to replace the mesh screen/gasket at the hose ends. They were plugged with crud. PartSelect saved me from buying a new washing machine. Yay!

My experience with my repair is as follows:
After determining the "hot water" solenoid was weak and that a new fill valve was needed, I placed my order with PartSelect on Thursday and to my suprise, had it in my hand Friday evening (no special shipping). WOW talk about fast! But unfortunately the part was broken.
Called PartSelect back Saturday morn to explain my problem and was told that I would be credited for the broken part and that a replacement would be sent ASAP probably arriving on Wednesday. Again to my suprise, the part arrived on Tuesday morning.
Hats off to you guys for great service, prices and no hassles.

Dennis Fleming
North Billerica, MA

pulled the front panel first, then lifted the top(2bolts in each).
Then unhooked water and unbolted the water inlet valve from the back left corner behind the tub.four wires are connected Pay attenion to where they go, for easy reinstallation.NOTE: watch the clips in the front of the washer they flew off and it took half an hour on the internet finding out how they went back on.

I watched a sample repair on YouTube and read the instructions that came with the part. All went as planned/described.

I took the hot and cold water hoses off with pliers.and then I took the one screw out towards the top of the water inlet valve plate.disconnected 4 wires,there is a small clamp on the small hose on the valve you have to remove.and last there is a cluster of wires that has to be removed from a bracket and (it is important to put these cluster of wires back in place otherwise they will wear a bare spot in them.)

took hose off then took three 5/16 screws then clamp off reversed order to put back on check for leaks ok

Removed front panel, removed bolts from the front of top panel, lifted. Removed hoses, then 4 screws from siphon break at top right rear of machine, removed siphon break. Installed replacement siphon break and secured with screws. Put some dish soap in hoses and slid them into place and tightened clamps. (It is necessary to move the top panel up and down at various times in the process to do all of this.) Then secured the top with the front bolts. Then installed front panel. Tested the machine, no leak.

Solved theprobel m by noticiing the HOT water filled the tub and it began to run when it was full. Figured out it was the solenoid valve. Ordered a new one. Simple to install and then it ran just fiine.

Did the same as others. Loosened the three screws diconnected the wires and put them on the new valve. Disconnected fill hose and connected to new valve. 10-15 minutes. Replaced panel and tested new part. perfect, My repair was a little longer, I vaccumed up all the dust bunnies I could find before moving washer back. Good for another 35 years, I hope. Thanks for the help and experiences.

Pushed machine out from wall; disconnected the supply hoses (after closing the valves at the wall); unplugged electrical cord; removed two wires from the solenoid connectors; removed two screws that secure valve assembly to backplane of machine. Installation of new assembly was the opposite procedure. We have private well, and silt was plugging the cold water side of valve. So, I also installed a large sediment filter behind the washer, so this will never happen again.

First I remove the hot & cold water hoses using an adjustable wrench. I then unscrew the panel that holds the water inlet valve using a nut driver. I then carefully pull out the panel, moving the harness wires out of the way, so that I can loosen the clamp holding the inside rubber tube. I remove the old water inlet valve from the panel by removing the 2 screws and then put the new one in. I then reconnect the rubber tube and tighten the clamp. I then screw back the panel and reconnect the hot & cold water hoses. It took me about 20 mins to complete the job.

First let me commend PartSelect for their incredibly fast shipping. Ordered on a Thursday and it arrived on Friday!!

The repair itself was fast and easy and let me add I had never worked on a washing machine before.

1)Unplugged power cord from the wall.
2)Turned off hot and cold water at the shutoff valves.
3)Disconnected water lines leading to the washer.
4)Removed 3 screws holding the bracket assembly on the washer.
5)Removed bracket and pulled water inlet valve out a few inches.
6)Held new inlet valve in same orientation as the old one and then one by one removed the four electrical wires from the old solenoids and attached them to the corresponding place on the new inlet valve.
7)Put inlet valve back in place, attached bracket, and secured it with the 3 screws.
8)Attached water lines to inlet valve and plugged power cord back in.
9)Turned water back on at shutoff valve and checked for leaks.

I washed a load of clothes after the repair and am happy to report that the hot water now runs in as fast as it did when the machine was new. This washer may be 30 years old but I think the old gal's got some life left in her yet.