LA7500S Maytag Washer - Instructions

After getting my husband and another strong guy to move the washer from the wall... I removed the single screw that held the access in panel below the elbow. I then removed the 4 screws that held elbow pinned between the syphon break and the rear panel of the washer. I reached up and removed the broken piece of elbow and replaced with my new syphon elbow. Within 20 minutes I had the 5 screws replaced and the access panel cover back on and the washer moved back into place against the wall. Since we broke the elbow moving it around during home remodeling... I was able to complete our first load of wash in 6 months that afternoon! Thank you!

Shut off the hot water supply (pretty sharp eh?). Disconnected the hose from the hw supply and the at the connection to the washing machine. These had not been touched in at least 15 years and were somewhat tough to loosen but finally came ..... accessibility was a problem for the connection to the water supply as it was in a recessed wall box. Fortunately, we had some washers for the hose connections so the install was a snap. Hardest part of the whole job was moving the washing machine out from between the drier and the wash tub .... tight fit. Thanks for the quick service and to FED EX for their delivery. The delivery fellow was a real gentleman.

I first shut off the cold and hot water hoses so that no water would run while replacing the part. After that I made sure to unplug the washer .Then I removed the plate that was holding the water inlet valve with a 1/2 " nut driver ,I think there were four bolts .Then I removed two more bolts from the center of the plate that were holding the water inlet valve.I then disconnected one 1/4 " screw or I should say loosened one which held the main water hose going into the washer which then released the part ,except from four wires. I then took one wire off at a time and attached to the new part one at a time.Finally, I was finished and reconnected everything .It worked perfected !I'am very happy and pleased . This washer is over 25 years old and still runs .

Removed 2 screws on the bottom of the front of the washer and pried the front off. Then removed 2 more screws for the top of washer and rocked it back to expose the water inlet vavle. Removed the water inlvet vavle and replaced it. Then put it all back together. Done

Simple removal of the mounting plate holding the old valve to the rear of the machine followed by disconnection of the water hose to the washer from the valve and unplugging of four electrical connections. Reattached the new valve to the water hose and then reattached the new valve to the mounting plate, finally reconnecting the wiring connections (4). Installation completed by reattaching the valve mounting plate to the washer. The diagnosis was confirmed by blowing into the old valve's water inlet. Air would pass through the valve, confirming that it did leak when the valve was closed. Air blown through the new valve prior to installation would not pass through the new valve.

When the part came in, it was just a matter of getting the old part out, and replacing it! Incredibly smooth---the hold down screws were obvious, so once I got them out---the part came out of the machine, I disconnected the two control wires, reconnected them to the new part---and reinstalled!

since i had already opened up the machine to remove the old part, all i had to do was install the new part. actual time was less than 5 minutes. additional time was in putting the machine back together.a more detailed description would be:
i inserted the part in the sleeve at the back of the machine,held it in place and replaced the four screws to hold it. i attached the hose and clamped it. i then re-fastened the machine's top with two screws and replaced the front panel, using the two screws to hold it in place. the machine was used the next day and worked fine.

Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.

1. Removed hoses 2. Removed inlet valve. 3. Took valve apart to discover defect in diaphram. 4. Looked up and ordered part. 5. Replaced inlet valve. 6. Tested washer.

I followed steps outlined on you web page.

Part shipping was great got here in two days-

I pulled off Front panel (two screws) and lifted Top panel (2 screws) and disconnected the inlet hoses. I removed the old Inlet valve. (1 scew and valve to tub hose connection).

Before Installing the new valve, i shifted the connector positions on the selenoids to match the old valve. and installed by reversing the steps. All went very smooth. Thanks, It was easy.

Followed web instructions.

I removed the two screws that held the front panel in place. Then I removed the two screws that held the top down. This allowed me to see the siphon valve when I lifted the top up. I disconnected the hose from the pump to the siphon valve by taking off the 2 clamps. Then I went to the back of the washer and moved the drain hose from the back by looseneing the clamp. Then I unscrewed the 4 screws holding the siphon valve in from the back. I took off the old valve put the new valve in and reversed the process to reinstall. It fixed the problem.

I removed 2 screws at the bottom front corner of the washer. Then lifted the front panel upwards about 45 degrees, which allows the front panel to be removed.
I then removed one small lag bolt from under each front corner (with a nut driver), which hold the top to the frame.
I was now able to swing the top up to have access to the siphon break.
I then removed the drain hose from the rear of the machine where it is attached to the nipple end of the siphon break, by loosening the hose clamp. Still at the rear, the nipple end of the siphon break is attached with 4 mini lag bolts, Which go through the back plate & hold the siphon break to the inside of the washer. I removed the bolts with a nut driver.
The nipple end now fell away. You must save it, as the siphon break does not come with a new nipple end.from the siphon break. Maytag attaches it with an iron band, as they must think that this repair will never be done! I cut the band with the Dremel, being very careful not to cut the hose.
I pulled the siphon break free from the hose.
The installation is a reversal of the removal, starting with inserting the siphon break in the inner hose, clamping the hose with the supplied hose clamp.
I the removed the inner drain hose

Removed old valve and replaced with new. Wire for wire..screw for screw..

Followed instructions, those were OK.
Dishwasher front still leaking