LA7500S Maytag Washer - Instructions

Removed old valve and replaced with new. Wire for wire..screw for screw..

I removed 2 screws at the bottom front corner of the washer. Then lifted the front panel upwards about 45 degrees, which allows the front panel to be removed.
I then removed one small lag bolt from under each front corner (with a nut driver), which hold the top to the frame.
I was now able to swing the top up to have access to the siphon break.
I then removed the drain hose from the rear of the machine where it is attached to the nipple end of the siphon break, by loosening the hose clamp. Still at the rear, the nipple end of the siphon break is attached with 4 mini lag bolts, Which go through the back plate & hold the siphon break to the inside of the washer. I removed the bolts with a nut driver.
The nipple end now fell away. You must save it, as the siphon break does not come with a new nipple end.from the siphon break. Maytag attaches it with an iron band, as they must think that this repair will never be done! I cut the band with the Dremel, being very careful not to cut the hose.
I pulled the siphon break free from the hose.
The installation is a reversal of the removal, starting with inserting the siphon break in the inner hose, clamping the hose with the supplied hose clamp.
I the removed the inner drain hose

Pushed machine out from wall; disconnected the supply hoses (after closing the valves at the wall); unplugged electrical cord; removed two wires from the solenoid connectors; removed two screws that secure valve assembly to backplane of machine. Installation of new assembly was the opposite procedure. We have private well, and silt was plugging the cold water side of valve. So, I also installed a large sediment filter behind the washer, so this will never happen again.

open top of washer
remove two screws that hold water inlet valve
disconnect four wires and hose;replace new water inlet valve and reversed operation
everything went well

Did the same as others. Loosened the three screws diconnected the wires and put them on the new valve. Disconnected fill hose and connected to new valve. 10-15 minutes. Replaced panel and tested new part. perfect, My repair was a little longer, I vaccumed up all the dust bunnies I could find before moving washer back. Good for another 35 years, I hope. Thanks for the help and experiences.

Solved theprobel m by noticiing the HOT water filled the tub and it began to run when it was full. Figured out it was the solenoid valve. Ordered a new one. Simple to install and then it ran just fiine.

First turned off water and unplugged washer. Removed hoses and then removed bracket. The new part needed the bracket from the old mixer which was no problem - 3 screws. Removed electrical plugs from old mixer-placed on new one.No problems - worked like new. Thanks for your prompt shipment and the good illustrations of the parts when I was searching.. Also, half the price of local parts houses and it would still have to be ordered.

Washer is enclosed in a walled partition. I spent more time moving the washer out so I could get to the back of the machine. Due to Maytag's design of a removal sheet metal panel holding the valve the entire water valve replacement was performed outside of the machine. The replacement valve was an exact duplicate and made it a simple swap out. More time was spent removing inlet hoses and outlet hose then in actual valve replacement.

Removed door panel to get to the electric control conponents and noticed a burned wire to one of the door microswitches. Ordered the door switch repair kit from PartSelect. Also, ordered and replaced the thermal fuse at the same time since it was only $12 and didn't know if that blew at the same time the switch cooked. I had the parts coming standard delivery (3-5 days), but they arrived the very next day. Parts included easy to follow directions.Job went pretty smooth and the dishwasher works again Good experience!

Removed front panel, removed bolts from the front of top panel, lifted. Removed hoses, then 4 screws from siphon break at top right rear of machine, removed siphon break. Installed replacement siphon break and secured with screws. Put some dish soap in hoses and slid them into place and tightened clamps. (It is necessary to move the top panel up and down at various times in the process to do all of this.) Then secured the top with the front bolts. Then installed front panel. Tested the machine, no leak.

Took out 2 5/16" screws and loosened top and took off two ground wires and 2 hot wires for cold & hot water solenoids and removed & replaced solenoid wires and fill hose. Also Had fantastic delivery of parts.

Diagnosed the problem and ordered the part online in about 15 minutes. Part arrived about 3 days later. I followed the directions that came with the part and VOILA! washing amchine fixed. I unplugged the washing machine. I unscrewed the the screws at the back of the machine. Pulled out the faulty part and disconnected the electrical wires. Connected the electrical wires to the new part, and screwed it back in. In less than 30 minutes, I was done.

First, I opened up the back of the machine to see the way the water got into the tub. I turned off the water at the pipes, unplugged the machine, and disconnected the hoses from back. There were no leaks with the hoses, so I looked at the part that managed the water flow when operating and went on line to find the part.
I found it and then ordered it from partselect.com. I got it two days later. I looked at how the other part was connected to the hoses and reused a clamp. I recommend getting a new hose clamp to make fitting it faster. I felt great after I got it to work, so that we didn't have to buy a new washer (the part was only $26). I think that Repair should be added to Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle.

Shut off water supply, unplugged washer power, removed supply hoses from old washer valve assembly, removed valve mounting plate and removed old valve assembly from mounting plate, diagrammed and disconnected hot and cold solenoid valve wiring and removed valve assembly outlet hose. Installed and connected new valve, performing the preceding steps in reverse order. pressurized new valve, verified valve function and checked for leaks and placed washer back in service.

Removed the four screws that hold the part and also loosened the screw for a cover. Moved cover to gain access to inside of machine. Removed broken piece and replaced. Tightened screws and replaced plate. No leaks.