GTW385ASW0WS General Electric Washer - Instructions

Dipped water out as much as possible,tited washer at a 45 degree angle and propped it up. Took the 3 bolts out holding the pump assembly and the 3 bolts holding the belt guard.Unplug wire connecter,pull out assembly and than pull drain hose off of assembly. Reinstall the same as you take apart. Was a easy fix, and worked as it should.

Removed the center agitator to clean it - had black mold and pink soap scum buildup underneath that you couldn't see or clean without taking it apart. Removed the bolt with ease. Upon tightening the bolt back in place, the bolt sheared in half, leaving the lower half threaded in place and the head in the socket. Had to use a drill bit and drill out the lower half of the bolt completely. Ordered the replacement bolt and reassembled everything in less than 5 minutes. Replacement part was perfect - hopefully it lasts longer than the original bolt.

Extremely easy. You will need a helper to make it easy. The best directions are on you tube.

6y/o washer.
First checked lid switch. It turns out that the connector was disconnected. Probably became disconnected after the shaking from an unbalanced load. Reconnected and worked for three loads, then failed to spin again.

Purchased switch kit, belt and mode shifter, but held off the replacement. Parts select shared the diagnostic sheet. You can find yours inside the washer in a Ziploc bag. Tilt washer back and look underneath.

Went through diagnostic codes and all checked out fine. Did a fault reset. Worked again for three loads then failed to spin. GE sent a tech ($109 for service call). His diagnosis read-out showed rods/springs needed replacement. Parts arrived in three days and took about 45 minutes to r&r (I marked the new ones with a marker when unpacking to avoid confusion). USE VISE GRIPS AND.INSTALL FROM THE TOP. DO THE REAR.ONES FIRST Afterward, three loads done fourth load no spin.

Replaced lid switch with the kit. Again 3 loads fine, 4th load spin fail.

Note; each unplug & replug in resets the error codes, which may explain the 3 load temporary fix.

Did more research...

Finally, replaced old lid switch with lid switch kit (old switch was functioning fine, but I had the kit, so replaced it, in the event it was throwing an error code. Again 3 loads fine, 4th failed to spin.

Tilted washer back 45° for bottom access. Removed old belt. Belt and pulleys were loaded with grease/oil. Pulled both pulleys and scoured them. Replaced mode shifter. Note; old belt was about 3/4" larger diameter than new belt. Part#s matched, so it was the correct belt. Obviously the old belt was very worn. Oil/grease may be a combination of two things 1-slight leak from transmission seal, without any puddles on the floor and 2- the heat from the worn belt degrading the petroleum within.

While under the washer, removed the pump and hoses, checking for obstructions in the hoses and impeller. None found.

While underneath I grabbed the tech sheet from inside wall.

Checked the capacitance of the capacitor. Spec on the capacitor is 60 +/-5%. Mine tested at 61.1...within specs. (Be sure to discharge capacitor safely first!)

Reassembled the machine. Working fine through fifteen loads so far.

Final note. YouTube videos for all these steps online.
Conclusions; mechanically easy repair for DIYer. Probable causes...Belt worn, mode shifter and rods/springs worn out.

Total cost ~$200 parts + $109 for GE tech call.
Labor ~3 hours, but only because of so many disassembly re-assembly attempts at repair. Had it all been done at one time, total time would've been <1.5 hours

Thanks parts select and Barb (you're awesome)

The drain pump had three screws. Frist unplug the machine and turn the water off. And unplug the hose for the Hot and Clod Water. Make sure their no water in the tub. Unplug the pipe from the Tub. The unscrew the nut for the connector. Then unplug the connector and be careful not to damage plug for the connector. Press the plug connector with your finger or long nose pliers . Then just hook the new plumb and you all set.

Took the belt cover and then replaced the pump. Did a dry run and everything was fine.

You have to take the top off of the washer and the four suspension rods are at each corner. Fairly simple removal and installation of the rods. A quick you tube search is all it took. Easy peasy.

Instructions were fairly good, line up holes and push a phillips head screwdriver thru auger then twist it off. Problem is you can only use a short screwdriver due to space limitations, and it is or at least for me was impossible to twist the auger off as directed, but after I lost my temper and gave the screwdriver a good thump (auger was already broke, what's the harm) with my left hand the auger came right off, putting the new one on is very simple.

Two screws to take off rear panel. Slid control panel board back to unlock and laid forward. Exposed two more screws holding in water inlet. Removed and slid old water inlet out, new water inlet in. Attached two screws, control panel and rear panel and works perfectly. So much easier than I imagined!

Removed the top assembly where the controls are located by removing the two mounting screws, one on each side. Removed the two hoses. Removed the two mounting screws, Removed old part, installed new part in reverse order.

Replaced water pump. Washer now works as new.
Wife is now happy!

1. Unplug washer.
2. Turn off water and disconnect hoses.
3. Remove control panel and set aside. It's held in place by 2 screws on the back.
4. Remove 2 screws to remove water inlet valve assembly.
5. Replace in reverse order.

Used a Phillips screw driver to lock the top and bottom of auger. Took a while to separate from base. Used another driver to remove old base and put the new one on with nut driver. Placed auger on base and turned to lock. Job done and works great.
Thanks

1 Disconnect power 2) Cut water supply to washer 3) Disconnect water supply hoses from supply.
***if pump broke with water in tub, remove water from tub. 4) tip machine onto it's front side 5) remove hose clamp of exhaust hose & then remove exhaust hose from pump 6) Remove pump with socket/ratchet 7) disconnect pump electrical plug 8) tell old pump to take a hike & throw in garbage 9)Iinstall new pump 10) Do steps 7—1 in reverse order to put back into business.******Be prepared to do it again in 6 months; I havnt had good luck!

Being a woman I had to figure out tipping it in its front. I put it on a dollie and drop it down real easy.
Removed all water lines after water was shut off.
Removed bolts. Removed bolts on plate to the right to unplug old pump.
Plugged in new one and replaced all bolts, hoses and tipped her back up. Works like a charm and I saved $408 by doing it myself!!!!!