LSE9900AFE Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Removed old latch. Installed new latch. No problem.

Pop out with screwdriver and push in new part. easy

After 20+ years of service, the plastic part that holds the dryer door closed, broke. I orderd the replacement part on a Monday and received it on Wednesday!
By applying constant pressure with my thumb, the replacement part 'snapped' into place - all of 4 seconds.
Fast delivery of parts and fast instal, made for a great day.

It was so easy to repair that my wife did it. She used a screw driver to pop out the old, worn plastic part that the door latch goes into and snapped in the new part and it was all done. So nice to be able to fix it yourself!

A simple repair. Just a screwdriver was needed (and of course the latch parts), Took all of 5 minutes

Took 2 screws out of the bottom of the dryer so the front face plate came off. This allowed access to the door latch catch, which was easy to pull out with pliers. Pushed in new latch catch until it "popped" into place. Easy, easy, easy!

I took the two screws out of the end of the door and the door handle off. Then able to part the interior of the door enough to replace the latch. The video was really great.

The dryer door on my mom's Maytag SG1000 (washer/dryer stacked unit) wouldn't stay closed; the latch had finally broken. The replacement kit includes both the female latch and the male striker. I replaced both even though the old striker was still good. The old parts were easily pried out and removed with a small flat-blade screwdriver. But what the PartSelect website, and the other "repair stories" found here, fail to mention is that the male striker is held in place with a small metal "door strike retainer" plate that falls down into the door as soon as you pry off the striker. You will need a small Phillips screwdriver to take the door apart and retrieve the plate. After snapping the new striker into the plate the door can be reassembled -- a simple job that only takes a couple of minutes.

unscrew the screws at bottom front of dryer, lift outward, upward, the bottom of the front of the dryer. As the dryer front tilts outward/upward from the bottom, the area where its hinged at the top of the front will disengage from the main frame of the dryer and the face of the front of the dryer comes off. remove the old door latch by manipulating the plastic body of the latch (wiggle, twist pinch . . .) until, from the back, you can push the old latch forward through the front of the front of the dryer. At this point, you can put the new door latch back in from the front and push it in to place.

Loosened the hose coupling, removed the old washer and strainer; cleaned the opening; flushed the opening; installed new strainer and washer; reattached hose and "Bob's your uncle"! No problem.

First removed 2 screws(phillips) at bottom of front cover and lifted front to remove. Then removed 2 3/8 screws from under top cover and lifted cover and slid forward to exposed Syphon Break. After running briefly on spin, it was easy to see where the leak was. Syphon break was installed in 5 minutes by removing both hoses and 4 hex screws and reinstalling. Part arrived as promised in 3 days. I was very pleased with the whole experience.

Remove the following items: Washer to sink hose (loosen hose clamp and twist hose), two philips screws from bottom of front panel, front panel, upper side bolt screws, tilt up top washer deck and secure, remove 4 syphon break screws from rear of unit, remove pump to syphon break hose,
remove old syphon break, install new part and tighten with hose clamp, re-install pump to syphon break hose, re-assemble in reverse order. Check for leaks. Show your wife.

replaced fill valve

Just used a needle nose plier to remove the broken part, and inserted by hand the new part.

easily pried out the old catch. Removed one screw from the door, with pliers pushed the old striker out. Easily snapped the new catch and striker in place, then replaced the screw in the door. Done in about 5 minutes.