LSE9900AFE Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Shut off the hot water supply (pretty sharp eh?). Disconnected the hose from the hw supply and the at the connection to the washing machine. These had not been touched in at least 15 years and were somewhat tough to loosen but finally came ..... accessibility was a problem for the connection to the water supply as it was in a recessed wall box. Fortunately, we had some washers for the hose connections so the install was a snap. Hardest part of the whole job was moving the washing machine out from between the drier and the wash tub .... tight fit. Thanks for the quick service and to FED EX for their delivery. The delivery fellow was a real gentleman.

one screwdriver, one new door latch, five minutes! Pried out the female part of the door latch, tapped in the new one and started the dryer. Never had an easier repair. Usually there is some hitch along the way you learn about the hard way, but not this time. TOO EASY!!

popped out the old, broken female latch, popped in the new one in less than 30 seconds. We had been leaning stool against the dryer door for 5 years. Now it works exactly like it is supposed to.

took part top of washer saw switch replaced it not to difficult it is always easier when you have new one to look at

I removed 2 screws at the bottom front corner of the washer. Then lifted the front panel upwards about 45 degrees, which allows the front panel to be removed.
I then removed one small lag bolt from under each front corner (with a nut driver), which hold the top to the frame.
I was now able to swing the top up to have access to the siphon break.
I then removed the drain hose from the rear of the machine where it is attached to the nipple end of the siphon break, by loosening the hose clamp. Still at the rear, the nipple end of the siphon break is attached with 4 mini lag bolts, Which go through the back plate & hold the siphon break to the inside of the washer. I removed the bolts with a nut driver.
The nipple end now fell away. You must save it, as the siphon break does not come with a new nipple end.from the siphon break. Maytag attaches it with an iron band, as they must think that this repair will never be done! I cut the band with the Dremel, being very careful not to cut the hose.
I pulled the siphon break free from the hose.
The installation is a reversal of the removal, starting with inserting the siphon break in the inner hose, clamping the hose with the supplied hose clamp.
I the removed the inner drain hose

Removed front panel, removed bolts from the front of top panel, lifted. Removed hoses, then 4 screws from siphon break at top right rear of machine, removed siphon break. Installed replacement siphon break and secured with screws. Put some dish soap in hoses and slid them into place and tightened clamps. (It is necessary to move the top panel up and down at various times in the process to do all of this.) Then secured the top with the front bolts. Then installed front panel. Tested the machine, no leak.

>removed 2 screws connecting the vent filter to the top lid of the unit (just in front of removable filter).
>Losing two screws at the back of the machine, just below control panel to allow free movement of the top lid on its hinges.
>Raise top lid & supported open.
>Now have free access to door switch (inside , front right fastened to front panel)
>removed the old switch
>fasten new switch (required new wire connector which was supplied with package) to existing wiring and replaced.
>Works perfectly!

unscrew the screws at bottom front of dryer, lift outward, upward, the bottom of the front of the dryer. As the dryer front tilts outward/upward from the bottom, the area where its hinged at the top of the front will disengage from the main frame of the dryer and the face of the front of the dryer comes off. remove the old door latch by manipulating the plastic body of the latch (wiggle, twist pinch . . .) until, from the back, you can push the old latch forward through the front of the front of the dryer. At this point, you can put the new door latch back in from the front and push it in to place.

Only needed half the parts. Installed the catch for the door and saved the other part.

The dryer door on my mom's Maytag SG1000 (washer/dryer stacked unit) wouldn't stay closed; the latch had finally broken. The replacement kit includes both the female latch and the male striker. I replaced both even though the old striker was still good. The old parts were easily pried out and removed with a small flat-blade screwdriver. But what the PartSelect website, and the other "repair stories" found here, fail to mention is that the male striker is held in place with a small metal "door strike retainer" plate that falls down into the door as soon as you pry off the striker. You will need a small Phillips screwdriver to take the door apart and retrieve the plate. After snapping the new striker into the plate the door can be reassembled -- a simple job that only takes a couple of minutes.

Loosened the hose coupling, removed the old washer and strainer; cleaned the opening; flushed the opening; installed new strainer and washer; reattached hose and "Bob's your uncle"! No problem.

Pop out with screwdriver and push in new part. easy

removed old broken piece with screw driver and pliers...
replaced with new part with thumbs as pushers.

I took the two screws out of the end of the door and the door handle off. Then able to part the interior of the door enough to replace the latch. The video was really great.

It was so easy to repair that my wife did it. She used a screw driver to pop out the old, worn plastic part that the door latch goes into and snapped in the new part and it was all done. So nice to be able to fix it yourself!