MLE19PNAUW Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

The replacement of the drain pump was very easy. I will not go into detail, just follow the video installation provided on this site and you will have no problem.

I decided to replace the drive belt since I was into the back of the washer. The video on this site was spot on, however I did have to apply a lot of effort putting the new one on. My old belt was stretched out considerably and at first thought I had a wrong replacement belt. Number on the belts confirmed it was correct. Just had to walk the belt on the larger pulley and it will fit.

My washer is running like a new one!

At first I thought I could just replace the pulley, but on closer inspection I found that the pulley had become seized on the shaft. I ended up removing the entire bracket (which I should have purchased also) and cutting the shaft off. I manufactured a new shaft from a bolt of the appropriate size and tack welded it to the bracket. It took a little more time than I anticipated. My advice to anyone doing this would be to spend a little extra money and buy the entire bracket and pulley. That would make this about a 15 minute job.

I looked up my problem online and everything I saw said to change the roller wheels that hold the barrel of the dryer. After doing that (twice, once on each side) I was still having a horrible squeaking sound so bad that we were waiting to do laundry until we were leaving for a while. Finally I determined that the problem was actually the idler wheel. All I had to do was remove the bolt holding the idler arm on (it's the arm that has a spring connected to it that moves to allow the belt on or off) and put the new arm with the new wheel on. The dryer is now whisper quiet and works perfectly.

Per instructions I printed off online: took off door, then the front panel. Pulled out the old switch/button, connected the new switch/button, made sure the new button was working; put the panel back on then the door and DONE!

I followed the instruction of using a tie strap to secure belt to drive pulley and turn pulley to place belt on pulley. Worked great. Done in no time.

unplug dryer; remove dryer door; remove front cover; thermal fuse located on heater underneath and beside drum; remove two electrical leads on fuse; remove two screws holding fuse in place; install new fuse and do the above in reverse; clean lint from duct; plug dryer into

I followed the steps on the first post which are very good. I had trouble, however, putting the seal over the drum. I finally removed the plastic rim to the drum by removing the clips. I was then able to lay the rim on the floor and put the new seal over it more easily. It is a lot like putting a bicycle tire on a rim. I had no helpers so I used a vice grip pliers on one end of the cable-spring and another pliers on the other. I was then able to pull both ends together enough to get them to hook up. I recommend removing the plastic rim as I mention above. Had I done this first, I would have done the job in less than 30 minutes.

Unplugged dryer and removed screws that hold door in place. removed screws that hold front panel. removed front panel. took drum belt off idler pulley. pulled drum out of dryer cabinet. unhooked wiring harness and removed motor. replaced motor and reversed steps to put back together. Thanks to partselect for getting me the parts so quickly. I ordered the motor on line on Friday and it was at my house on Saturday.

We followed the directions in other people's repair stories here. Removing the spring was a challenge, as was getting it back on! The rest of the repair was simple. Be patient with removing the soap dispenser. Ours had some plastic cords connecting it to the frame which we didn't anticipate, and we broke them because we didn't see them.

We're going to try that new Affresh product in the hopes of avoiding this repair again in the future. We never washed anything harmful in the washer. This seal becomes moldy and deteriorates with time. Using bleach to kill the mold only speeds the process.

Using the video tape (YouTube URL) provided, I went step by step and replaced the bellows with no problem. No water leaking..the toughest part was putting the spring back on, it takes some coordination and muscle.

removed phillips headed screws from sides (hinge on one side) and bottome of door, placed door flat on counter top. Removed interior vent, disassembled the door latching mechanism - somewhat difficult to figure out because needed to undo snapped in parts (used flat screwdriver to pry). Then removed inner panel from door, placed new inner panel into door interior, reassembled door latch mechaninsm, replaced vent tube. screwed in phillips head screws to bottom and non-hinged side of door. Brought door back over to machine and attached hinges to door.

Followed a video

The motor isolators went in with no problem ,but the drive belt went on very tight , your how to video shows how. Easy the belt went on , when I called your store I was told that is the only size belt for the machine model mah5500bww,
Thank you Bill

Pretty straight forward. After disconnecting the power. Remove the back panel, locate the drain pump. Disconnect the hoses [some water will still be in the hoses, have towels and dry vac ready] Remove protective plastic from the top of the pump and remove the electrical connection reassembled with new drain pump.