MLE19PNAUW Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Installed the new part. Worked great!

Unscrewed front panel. Pulled off unbroken wire connecter and popped switch and put new one in. Replaced front panel.

If you have the option to take a part the dryer before ordering the parts to track down the squeaking part, do so. In my case a squeaking part is still usable. Unfortunately the squeaking part was not the rollers or the belt depicted as a high percentage of the squeaking problems as noted on the webpage.My was the Idler Pulley. INSTALLATION of idler pulley, I started by watching the youtube videos, took pictures during the removal of the parts to assist in the installation. removed front panels parts, moved drum forward off the rollers, reached in and pulled the idler pulley to the left in order to remove belt. pulled the drum out. And with a flat head screw driver popped off the e clip (bought extra e clip just in case i lost it) reinstalled everything, BUT take note of the Idler pulley, it has one side bigger than the other BUT in the CLOSE UP VIDEO THE GENTLEMAN INSTALLS IT BACKWARDS. Not sure if this has a major effect on the pulley, but wanted to give it a heads up (your pictures will help you with this to keep track of how it should look at the end).

Just follow the video. The hardest part is getting the top to disengage from the clips.

I followed the YouTube video for pulling the heating element to remove and place the thermostat. The actual thermostat removal and replacement was pretty simple. Most of my time was spent removing the front panel, pulling and reinstalling the heating element.

Replaced the heating element and both thermostats. Hope that takes care of problem! You tube was a tremendous help through video's.h

Watched the videos for the repairs on the site. Took the back of the dryer off after unplugging the appliance. Removed the failed fuse and thermostat and replaced them both per the video steps. It took about 25 minutes for both parts and the dryer now works well.

removed front door, removed front panels, lifted top back, unhooked belt, removed drum and belt, removed blower housing front, removed squirrel cage, removed blower housing, unplugged motor, removed motor assembly , ..switched new motor to motor cradle ... reversed process.

Unplugged the dryer (don't forget this step guys!!!)

Pulled the front off the dryer (4 screws) and swapped the motor out - take off the belt, pull the blower wheel (by removing the snaprigs and squeeze collar), then pull off the motor retaining clips... unplug the motor and install the new one in reverse. Took me less than 2 hours and my dryer works like new.

WAY CHEAPER than a new dryer!!!

My Husband did the repair. He had to take the entire dryer apart to get to the motor. Removed door, front pannel, drum. During this repair he also replaced the belt since it had cracks and since the dryer was taken apart. placed new motor in and put all back to gether many screws he had to remember where they all went. Have to be very careful with the felt liner around drum. we started dryer has never ran more smoothly. Two people recommended to put dryer back together.

This is an easy fix once you see how it goes together but can be a little difficult in certain steps. I first Removed the door at the hinges and removed the screws on the side securing the liner. Once the liner was removed you can see what pieces are involved and how they go together. Take pictures before removing any thing, you'll need them during the repair. I removed the vent tube and the circular thing with springs. Transfer the circular thing first noting the screw slots. The next step may be a little difficult to see how the upper vent tube bracket slides off and how to maneuver the springs. The whole unit comes off as one so don't take it apart. Make sure you know how it goes back on with pictures. I found using channel lock pliers to compress the site springs was the best as it was easily attached on the new panel while compressed. The vent tube with the rubber seal on the bottom was tricky but you can finesse it in place. Once together putting the door together and back on the unit was easy, Worked great and saved a ton of repair money.

I removed the lower panel and control panel, then the front body panel. With those open, I removed the drum support and drum. I then removed the cover from the air guide, then unbolted the air guide from the motor assembly.

Then, I disconnected the wiring connector to the motor, unbolted the motor carrier from the bottom of the unit, and removed it. I removed the idler arm from the motor carrier, then unclipped the two clips holding the motor in the carrier.

At that point, while everything was out, I gave the carrier a thorough cleaning. I then placed the new motor, replaced the clips that hold it in place, and put everything back together in the reverse order of taking it apart.

While I was in the machine, since I had everything taken apart, I did also take the opportunity to replace the idler pulley and drum rollers proactively.

Remove front of cabinet, hinge the top back, remove the drum and drive belt, unplug the motor, remove cover on blower, remove snap ring on end of motor shaft, remove motor mount hold-downs, remove and replace motor in reverse order

Everything went smoothly enough until I reached the tension spring issue...It is definitely a two person job (that part, al least) It may be helpful to add that to the video...otherwise, the repair went well as I followed the video completely

Several times I watched the video of "Steve" removing the old motor and installing the new one. Pretty much followed what he did. Faltered for a moment at the end reinstalling the drive belt as that was a blind procedure, done by feel. Hardest part was getting the spring clamps off the old motor; even Steve struggled a bit doing that part of the job on the video. But in the end, the dryver started right up and ran quieter than it has for months.