MLE19PNAUW Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Daniel from Avon, CT
- Parts Used:
- 12002533
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Mashine leak was quickly diagnosed as rip in boot
The machine comes quickest appart with a cordless screwgun and a #2 Phillips.
To unhook the wire with spring it is easiest to use a needle nose plier and make a hook from a coat hanger or use a paint can opener.
Pay attention when yo line up the boot with the flange in the back, that the rectagular protrusions line up with the holes in the flange. You may have to stretch the boot a bit and push it all the way in with a dull tool.
Get someone to help you put the wire back on if you want to do it fast and easy. Otherwise hook it on the spring and get the pliers on the loop on the other side and pull it together, torquing the wire back so that it does not make the boot slip fo the flange.
Done
To unhook the wire with spring it is easiest to use a needle nose plier and make a hook from a coat hanger or use a paint can opener.
Pay attention when yo line up the boot with the flange in the back, that the rectagular protrusions line up with the holes in the flange. You may have to stretch the boot a bit and push it all the way in with a dull tool.
Get someone to help you put the wire back on if you want to do it fast and easy. Otherwise hook it on the spring and get the pliers on the loop on the other side and pull it together, torquing the wire back so that it does not make the boot slip fo the flange.
Done
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One of the drum baffle's boke from it's mount
Removed old broken plastic grommet's and installed two new plastic grommet's. Attached new baffle using old screws. Used a short piece of picture frame wire to install the two new grommets by fishing them into place with out removing the washer drum.
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- Customer:
- Raymond from Huntington Sta., NY
- Parts Used:
- 22003856
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Motor did not have the ability to rotate washing machine drum.
Removed old motor installed new motor.
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- Customer:
- matthew from Central Islip, NY
- Parts Used:
- WP33001762
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
no heat, coil wasnt getting hot
took old one out then i had to strip the connector off new one was to big...
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- Customer:
- Larry from Swanton, OH
- Parts Used:
- WP303396
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer ran hot
Took off door, then removed front of dryer to access the internal controls. Project went pretty darn well
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- Customer:
- GREGORY from HALIFAX, PA
- Parts Used:
- 12002533
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I found water on the floor beneath the washer. Further inspection revealed the door boot was torn.
I removed the screws around the front door. Then removed the front face. I removed the bolts holding the top down at front top corners. I removed the detergent dispensor. Next I removed the spring and hold down cable. I then pulled out the old boot. I then, with the help of my son, pulled the new boot around the drum. Then attached the cable and spring. Next pushed the boot into the front retainer. I then put the dispenser in and the front back on. Good as new. It was not hard as long as you have someone to help with pushing the boot around.
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- Customer:
- richard from pleasant valley, NY
- Parts Used:
- W10169313
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
door switch broke
remove bottom section under door 2 screws remove door 2 screws remove switch by squeezing tabs install 2 new female ends on wires supplied with switch . put switch back in plug in wires .
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- Customer:
- John from Warsaw, IL
- Parts Used:
- W10169313
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Door safety switch would not close keeping dryer from running
Shut off or unplugged dryer for safety.
Slipped thin blade putty knife up under bezel of switch to unlatch from the panel and pulled forward to remove the swwitch from the dryer. Unplugged the quick connect terminals (3) from the old switch and plugged them onto the new switch. one of the terminals had gotten quite hot and darkened the insulation so it was replaced with one that was supplied with the switch. that was a cut, strip, crimp process. Placed the new switch into the panel and snapped into place.
Slipped thin blade putty knife up under bezel of switch to unlatch from the panel and pulled forward to remove the swwitch from the dryer. Unplugged the quick connect terminals (3) from the old switch and plugged them onto the new switch. one of the terminals had gotten quite hot and darkened the insulation so it was replaced with one that was supplied with the switch. that was a cut, strip, crimp process. Placed the new switch into the panel and snapped into place.
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- Customer:
- james from CAMBRIDGE, MN
- Parts Used:
- WP33001762, W10169313
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Will not start all lights on,makes a ping sound on the control panel when you push the start button
Replaced thermal fuse and replaced door switch
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Blower wheel was wobbly about the shaft, producing a lot of vibration and noise.
Tools required: Stubby socket wrench, 5/16" socket, 1/2" socket, 1/4" socket, #3 Phillips screwdriver, external circlip pliers, straight slip joint pliers. A decently strong electric screwdriver is highly recommended - Milwaukee 2401-20 M12 cordless 1/4" Hex Screwdriver, for example.
Unplug the dryer. Turn off the gas supply.
Remove the screws holding the door hinges to the dryer.
Remove the door and hinges from the dryer by pulling the door and hinges up, then out.
Remove the two plastic thingies (door stops), opposite of where the hinges were, from the front panel of the dryer. Each plastic piece is held in place by two screws.
Grasp the front panel by its top edge, pull it toward you, then lift the panel up and off the clips at the bottom.
There are a couple metal brackets holding the top of the dryer down to the front shroud (the doorway) and frame, one on either side. Each bracket is held in place by two screws. Remove the screws, remove the brackets, then rock the top panel up and back, like the hood of a car.
Remove the screws holding the shroud to the frame. Look carefully. There are two screws that look like they hold the shroud to the frame, but actually do not. Don't remove these screws yet.
Remove the screws holding the plastic duct / lint screen slot to the shroud. These are very long.
Disconnect the wires from the door switch.
Remove the shroud.
Remember the two screws I referenced previously, stating they shouldn't yet be removed? Now's the time to remove them. Do so, then set the panel aside, being careful not to damage any wires. Don't lose the rubber gasket sitting around the circular portion of the duct.
There's a metal cover over the blower wheel. This cover is held in place by a bunch of screws. Remove them all, then remove the cover.
Remove the circlip going around the blower shaft, in front of the blower wheel.
Remove the clamp from around the blower wheel and shaft.
Pull the blower wheel off the shaft.
Install the new blower wheel.
Reinstall the clamp around the blower wheel and shaft.
Reinstall the circlip.
Reinstall the metal blower cover.
Make sure the rear of the drum is resting on the wheels.
Now things become a little difficult, because you have to fight the drum a little bit. Put the panel containing the moisture sensor, front drum seal, and duct into position. (Be careful not to mess up the drum glides. Make sure the rubber seal at the bottom of the vent is in place, sealing the vent to the blower.) Screw the panel into place with two screws, but don't fully tighten yet.
There's a felt seal that is supposed to go between the rear lip of the drum and the rear inside wall. The seal is supposed to be held folded, pinched between the lip and the wall, with the edge of the seal being outside the drum. The seal isn't supposed to jut into the inside of the drum. Use your fingers and some other tool to push the rear felt drum seal out of the inside of the drum. If you use a screwdriver, be careful that you don't cut, rip, or otherwise damage the felt seal.
Do the same with the front felt drum seal.
Carefully inspect the felt seals. You don't want any portion of the seal somehow working its way back into the inside of the drum. Then verify again that the rubber seal that goes between the blower housing and the vent is in place and properly sealing. Now tighten the screws.
Connect the wires to the door switch on the shroud, then loosely screw the shroud in place. Screw the shroud to the vent. Once all the screws are in place, tighten all the screws.
Lower the top of the dryer into position.
Hook a bracket into one side of the lid, position the bracket over the front shroud, then screw in place.
Repeat with the other bracket.
Place the front panel onto the bottom clips. Seat the panel onto the clips all the way, then rock the panel forward into place.
Install the plastic door stops.
Insert the door hinges into their slots, push the door down to seat into place, then install the screws that hold the hinges in place.
Plug the dryer in, turn on the gas, test.
Unplug the dryer. Turn off the gas supply.
Remove the screws holding the door hinges to the dryer.
Remove the door and hinges from the dryer by pulling the door and hinges up, then out.
Remove the two plastic thingies (door stops), opposite of where the hinges were, from the front panel of the dryer. Each plastic piece is held in place by two screws.
Grasp the front panel by its top edge, pull it toward you, then lift the panel up and off the clips at the bottom.
There are a couple metal brackets holding the top of the dryer down to the front shroud (the doorway) and frame, one on either side. Each bracket is held in place by two screws. Remove the screws, remove the brackets, then rock the top panel up and back, like the hood of a car.
Remove the screws holding the shroud to the frame. Look carefully. There are two screws that look like they hold the shroud to the frame, but actually do not. Don't remove these screws yet.
Remove the screws holding the plastic duct / lint screen slot to the shroud. These are very long.
Disconnect the wires from the door switch.
Remove the shroud.
Remember the two screws I referenced previously, stating they shouldn't yet be removed? Now's the time to remove them. Do so, then set the panel aside, being careful not to damage any wires. Don't lose the rubber gasket sitting around the circular portion of the duct.
There's a metal cover over the blower wheel. This cover is held in place by a bunch of screws. Remove them all, then remove the cover.
Remove the circlip going around the blower shaft, in front of the blower wheel.
Remove the clamp from around the blower wheel and shaft.
Pull the blower wheel off the shaft.
Install the new blower wheel.
Reinstall the clamp around the blower wheel and shaft.
Reinstall the circlip.
Reinstall the metal blower cover.
Make sure the rear of the drum is resting on the wheels.
Now things become a little difficult, because you have to fight the drum a little bit. Put the panel containing the moisture sensor, front drum seal, and duct into position. (Be careful not to mess up the drum glides. Make sure the rubber seal at the bottom of the vent is in place, sealing the vent to the blower.) Screw the panel into place with two screws, but don't fully tighten yet.
There's a felt seal that is supposed to go between the rear lip of the drum and the rear inside wall. The seal is supposed to be held folded, pinched between the lip and the wall, with the edge of the seal being outside the drum. The seal isn't supposed to jut into the inside of the drum. Use your fingers and some other tool to push the rear felt drum seal out of the inside of the drum. If you use a screwdriver, be careful that you don't cut, rip, or otherwise damage the felt seal.
Do the same with the front felt drum seal.
Carefully inspect the felt seals. You don't want any portion of the seal somehow working its way back into the inside of the drum. Then verify again that the rubber seal that goes between the blower housing and the vent is in place and properly sealing. Now tighten the screws.
Connect the wires to the door switch on the shroud, then loosely screw the shroud in place. Screw the shroud to the vent. Once all the screws are in place, tighten all the screws.
Lower the top of the dryer into position.
Hook a bracket into one side of the lid, position the bracket over the front shroud, then screw in place.
Repeat with the other bracket.
Place the front panel onto the bottom clips. Seat the panel onto the clips all the way, then rock the panel forward into place.
Install the plastic door stops.
Insert the door hinges into their slots, push the door down to seat into place, then install the screws that hold the hinges in place.
Plug the dryer in, turn on the gas, test.
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- Customer:
- Tom from PUYALLUP, WA
- Parts Used:
- WP22002077, 12002533, 12002022
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Replace front and rear bearings and bellows
Of course I looked at you tube to get the instructions on how best to do the job. It was very helpful. Getting the front bearing out was the major issue. It was so corroded that I could not get it out with a hammer and punch. I had to build a bearing puller which I copied from the you tube video out of a 3" schedule 40 pipe. After that the repair went very smoothly. Putting on the bellows cable and spring assembly took two of us. Also putting the clips that held the inside drum on took two of us. One of us used channel loks to squeeze the two drums together while the other installed the clip. I had trouble identifying the tube seal part number. I phoned for help and the customer service person was very helpful and ordered me the correct part. Thank you
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Washer was so loud in the spinning cycle it sounded like a jet was taking off
We took the washer completely apart. Replaced the bearings, pulley and
belt. We decided to replace anything that involved the spinning cycle while we had it all apart.
It was well worth the time and effort we put into it. It works like a chime
and is very quiet . Silence is golden ! Hopefully it will work another 18 years.
belt. We decided to replace anything that involved the spinning cycle while we had it all apart.
It was well worth the time and effort we put into it. It works like a chime
and is very quiet . Silence is golden ! Hopefully it will work another 18 years.
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- Customer:
- Brian from Louisville, KY
- Parts Used:
- 12002022
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
loud noise during spin cycle
got instructions off internet from others who did same repair; after taking inner basket out, used drift to remove outer bearing; seal was difficult to remove but used drift to force innner bearing into seal and seal popped out. had help reinstalling inner basket into outer basket.
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- Customer:
- Dennis from Bethel, CT
- Parts Used:
- WP22002083
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
water leaking around washer
First ya have to find the problem that takes time.
Pulled the front off via the four screws, two on the door and two on the opp side. Removed the two top hold down brackets that hold the top on (on the front), popped out the four screws for the detergent and the top hinged up, The hose was right there. Removed the two hose clamps, found the crack ordered if from you guys.(very fast) slapped it in and put a load in.
Pulled the front off via the four screws, two on the door and two on the opp side. Removed the two top hold down brackets that hold the top on (on the front), popped out the four screws for the detergent and the top hinged up, The hose was right there. Removed the two hose clamps, found the crack ordered if from you guys.(very fast) slapped it in and put a load in.
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- Customer:
- Robin from Wagoner, AL
- Parts Used:
- 12002022
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
seal went out bearings also had to be replaced
Had to remove the tub. Tha bearings had to be removed from the drum. After installing the new bearings(which are available @ O'rReilly's) the seal was't bad
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