GZ25FSRXYY2 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove cover inside frig at rearwall top with screw driver. Remove phillips screws holding unit in place. Unclip connectors ,and replace in reverse order.

Inside the food section above the top shelf behind the light in the back, remove the lid from the cover in lifting from the lower edge no tools necessary here. Remove two screws with Phillips screw driver remove entire housing inclusive Styrofoam insert. Unplug damper Control Unit. Remove two screws and remove damper control unit and replace in reverse order. Finally that refrigerator is quiet, I should have done this long time ago. Unbelievable this is the second part I have to replace on this expensive refrigerator.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Watched Partselect video of P-trap installation.Removed water line & back cover& disconnected wires to water solenoid .Removed old drain tube & old problematic rubber funnel. Used contact cleaner to clean rubber residue from drain line and used a little silicone to aide reassembly. Job went well thanks to video.

Turned the old one to unseat and replaced with a new one in the reverse order.

I followed the instructions on the You Tube video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6XdMrQeNYNw) and it works! It took about 2 hours because I had to stop and rewind the video. If you remember where things go when you disconnect, it's a snap. It was medium difficulty with very few tools just be careful when you remove the wiring harness. After plugging it in, I heard the first ice drop in the bucket in about an hour; I was so excited I took a picture. This part saved me a service call and over $200!

The repair seemed simple, I just needed to remove the old bracket -- 4 screws -- and slip the new one on.

The tricky bit is that the roller bracket holds the weight of the fridge. So in order to make sure that the fridge did not fall over, and to keep the installation point off the ground so that I could align the screw holes, I needed to shim up the side of the fridge that I was working on.

To tap in the shims, I used a hammer and a spare chunk of wood. I ultimately used 3 shims, and kept tapping until the roller wheel could roll freely. Then I knew that the fridge was high enough. After that, it was pretty easy to remove the 4 screws, align the new bracket, and replace the screws. After that, in order to get the shims out I could just extend the foot brake as it was designed, and that lifted the fridge enough for me to easily slide out the shims. After that I just had to level out the fridge by adjusting the two feet.

I had to cut off the old yoke since the threads had stripped and it would not come off. Once I did that all I had to do was to remove 4 screws on the auger motor and replace it with the new auger motor. Then I put the yoke on the new auger motor shaft and then put the unit back in the freezer. Work time was less than 15 minutes with no problems.

Replaced with new gasket

just like the video showed, removed the cover parts inside the fridge, disconnected the water tube inside and pulled out from the top of fridge, then inserted new water tube.

Took a putty knife and
Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place

It was just a simple swap out with the new bins.

Lower the filter bottom housing to gain access to the filter. Unscrew the filter and install the bypass cap. Secure the lower filter housing to the top assembly.

It is simple, unscrew the old screw in the new one.

Popping out the broken switch was easy once I was able to see how the new switch part was engineered. The switch was made to be replaced, having a simple tension hook on the bottom of the switch which needed to be depressed to pull the switch out of the cabinet. Once pulled out, there were modular plugs for the power line that were easy to pull off the broken switch and plug into the new switch. Pop the new switch back in and VOILA, the lights worked again! Thanks to part select's good diagrams of the actual model of my refrigerator, it was very easy to hone in on the exact part I needed. I did notice one problem with the order as the correct series for the part was displayed earlier in the process, but had the wrong series later in the process. However,. I trusted the system and the part is for the right series and fit well (an exact match, down to the color). Thanks Part Select, I would definitely use you again.