25331640103 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Snapped in

Snap out the old, Snap in the new. With a "Special Needs" child at home, doors are slammed. Inside retainer bars take abnormal abuse .. Parts Select, "Saves the day" and I have a HAPPY Landlord.

I found the part on PartSelect.com, ordered it, received it, and installed it in less than 3 days. Thank you PartSelect.com! I wish everything was this easy.

I took the broken plastic cap off and put the new one onto the retaining bar. Then snapped the the bar into place. That was it!

take 1/4 hex screws out clean out dust ,remove old fan blade replace with new install bolts .

These were easy pop in pieces so no tools were needed. Very easy and quick. What I liked best about PartSelect.com was the pictures and labeling used in order to select the correct part. That was my biggest concern. It only took me about 15 minutes to find and buy the parts I needed.

Received 3 parts. Snapped them together. Attached them to fridge door.

I installed new end caps brackets with bars by putting them in place. Now the refrigerator looks new again. These parts were installed in the door, which was broken/missing. This prevented a person from being able to store anything in the refrigerstor door until it was fixed.

The website said 60% of people with same refrigerator problem solved the problem with a new fan kit. I received the fan kit within 3 days of ordering. Was shipped from Fresno, CA to Long Beach, WA. The fan kit was to be installed behind rear panel in the freezer compartment. When I removed the old fan motor, I noticed the shaft turned harder than the new fan motor, suggesting a problem with the old fan motor. I plugged in the obvious fan motor power bundle with no problem. The instructions and diagram with the kit nearly steered me wrong. Instructions, diagram and splices with the kit instructed to cut the "extra" wire bundle and splice "similar" wires (should have said same color wires). Luckily, I ignored those instructions when I remembered the U-Tube video depicted the extra wire bundle was to be inserted into a factory penetration in the back panel, facing the freezer compartment. This power bundle is for adding an ice maker, which my refrigerator did not have. When reassembled and the refrigerator restarted, I could immediately feel forced air in the refrig, where there was no flow before fixing. I observed that all the refrig and freezer dials do is act like a valve to increase or decrease air flow to the compartments. The dials have no mechanical or electrical connections, just designed to divert air flow from across the cold 'evaporator' fins. I recommend other consumers to remember carefully what they see in the video and watch again if stumped during the job. The video was better than the instructions which may have been written in China or India. I am happy. Repair was a lot cheaper than a new refrigerator and I would not have bought another Frigidaire. Thanks to this website. r. andersen

I rolled the fridge away from the wall, unplugged, and looked for large amounts of dust-didn't see much beyond that which was on condenser coil. The motor was locked up so I removed the three screws and pulled the finger-like connectors. The new kit has a special bracket to mount the smaller frame motor. Getting the two screws into that is challenging w/out a long magnetic screwdriver. Then I added the foam strip & plugged in the new connector. I did not need to but I replaced the two aged capacitors (start,run) from other kits. This will help the compressor to last longer and be more efficient by giving it a boost and sustaining phase difference. Connecting the new "relay start kit" simply required some cutting and splicing with butt connectors of the red and white leads coming from the compressor and covering w/ heat shrink tube

My unit was not defrosting. Defrost heater was not functioning. Defrost heater tested good with a meter. Thermostat (cold) tested bad with a meter. Defrost timer was working properly. I replaced the thermostat but I had to buy red crimp connectors because the blue ones that came with the thermostat are designed for wire bigger than 18 AWG wire. The thermostat leads as well as the wire in my unit were 18 AWG. The crimp was not tight enough for my liking with the blue butt connectors. I also purchased smaller heat shrink tubing. After replacement, the defrost heater started working. I could see it glowing. Unfortunately immediately after getting the heater working the contacts in the defrost timer arced and stuck together thus preventing the timer from exiting defrost mode. The heater went off at this point indicating that the thermostat was now working. I then purchased and replaced the defrost timer and now the fridge is functioning properly. I noticed both replacement parts, even though I looked up my fridge model, were different part numbers than the originals. I'm guessing the new parts are improved? I also noticed the timer was an 8/30 rather than a 10/30 like the original. The fridge is working better than when it was new so evidently defrosting every 8 as opposed to every 10 hours is better for my unit.

Long story short:

Buy the correct crimp/butt connectors before beginning replacement of the thermostat and proactively replace the defrost timer since it is rather inexpensive.

remove food, then the shelf, then use a hot air gun to defrost and loosen the back panel, then remove the panel, then defrost the coil and thermostat area. using wire tools, replaced the defrost thermostat,and re-assembled freezwr and test

I followed the instructions in the video associated with the part that I ordered. The video was perfect and described everything I needed to do clearly. Repair is 100% successful!

I hesitate to say anything since I did exactly what their video told me to do, and it fixed the problem. Couldn't be happier. Was positive I was looking at 1000$ for a new fridge. Love being able to fix it by installing 15$ part myself. Thanks guys.

The freezer was still making ice, but the fridge portion was barely cooler than room temp. I came to the website and saw that the defrost thermostat cured this problem over half the time. I was quite dubious because I don't see how that would affect the non-freezer part of the compartment, but since it was a cheap and easy-looking repair, I figured what the heck, lets see if that's it. Sure enough, it's like new again. I still don't understand it, but I'll take it. The repair itself is simple, just cutting out the old switch and splicing in the new. Two wires, and clip it to the copper tubing where the old one was. The switch is accessed easily after taking out four screws in the back of the freezer compartment. The only hard part was removing the ice-maker, and that's just because the two screws that hold it in are a little hard to get a good grip on. Alas, you have to get the ice-maker out to pull out the back panel, so there's nothing for it but to wheedle those screws out.