59655659500 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

First I removed the Ice bin, I then loosened the ice bin rail under the ice maker and removed the screw that attached the bottom of the ice maker to the side of the fridge. I unplugged the power to Ice Maker from the back of the fridge and unscreewed the two screws that secured the ice maker to the fridge. This allowed the Ice Maker to be removed from the fridge. To replace the new ice maker I simply repeated the steps in reverse.

I saw on a partselect web site that these symptoms could be caused by a failed condensor fan motor. After removing the cardboard panel in back of the refrigerator I noticed the fan was not running when the rfigerator was. The fan was held in place by three brackets. I unscrewed the screws holding the fan motor to the brackets and also unscrewed one of the brackets to make room to pull the motor out. I cut the wires close to the motor. I removed the fan blade and secured it to the new motor. I had to reroute the old wires in order to have enough slack to use wire nuts to attach them to the leads on the new motor. I then re-attached the motor to the two brackets remaining in place and then re-attacehed the third bracket I had removed to get the motor out.. The most difficult part was working in a very confined space.

After moving the refrigerator away from the wall I removed the cover on the lower back of the unit by removing the screws that held it in place. The condenser fan was not turning and there was heat build up in the area causing the refrigerator to not work properly creating elevated temperatures in both the freezer and regrigerator. Removal of three torx screws from the original motor was all it took to get the motor free. By turining it and working the fan blade around the mounting bracket I had the motor out in just a few minutes. Replacing the new motor was just as easy to reinstall. The fan was removed from the old motor and placed on the new for installation. The original motor was wired to accept a connector from the wiring harness of the refrigerator. I simply cut the connector off the wiring harness and stripped the insulation from the wires which easily allowed me to connet the wires of the motor and harness with two wire nuts. Three self tapping screws were used to hold the motor in place replacing the torx screws. Installed I plugged the unit in and immediately the fan started spinning as the unit came to life. Cleaned and replaced the cover over the back and slid back into its spot. Running as good as it did when it was new. Easy job to take care of.

Philips head screwdriver and ten minutes was all it took! I removed the two screws that hold the icemaker assembly in place, then pulled it out a little and disconnected the electrical plug freeing the icemaker assembly. Then I snapped the external parts off my old icemaker assembly and snapped them on the new icemaker assembly. Installing the new icemaker assembly was just as fast and easy. I snapped the electrical plug into the new icemaker assembly, then screwed in the two screws. It was making ice shortly thereafter. Glob free ice! I'm glad I didn't call a repairman. I probably saved a hundred bucks. A ten year old could accomplish this simple and easy task. No wonder the Maytag repairman has time on his hands.

Took two times getting the correct part, however after getting the correct part it took about 10-minutes to replace. Had to take the fan out. When you put the new drip pan in make sure it is positioned so that the guides on the pan aligns with slots in the bottom refrig brace, otherwise back pannel will not align correctly. The fan is very easy getting aligned in the new tray. May take a little effort. I do not know why the pan on a refrighterator that is less than 5-years old could start breaking into many pieces.

I changed out the water valve behind the refrigerator that controls when the ice maker and water dispencer receives water. It was easy. I removed the lower back panel to get access to the valve. Pulled the hoses out by pushing up on the ring between the valve and hose and the hose came right out. I disconected the power lines. Of course the water was disconected and power plug out prior to starting the job. I replaced the valve and reconnected the lines and power. I put the back panel back in place and turned the water on to check for leaks. The next day I had ice in the ice maker.

The new Ice Maker Assembly arived in less than 24 hours. I was amazed that it came so fast.

I had already removed the old ice maker in order to get the modle number.

I just took two parts off of the old ice maker and quickly snapped them into place on the new ice maker. Then attached it to the refrigerator in less than 10 minutes. With in a few hours I had ice again !!!!!

I would definatly use partselect.com again.

It's good to note, first, that the dual water valve on Amana fridges are notorious for cracking and leaking, either due to the fridge being left in the cold (the water inside the valve freezes and expands, cracking the water valve) or from issues related to shipping. Read the reviews, here - it's a common issue, but easy and cheap to fix yourself. Here's my steps. I first turned off the water source to fridge by closing the correct valve. Next, I unplugged the fridge from electrical and from the water source line. When looking at the back of the fridge, I unscrewed the bottom left cover plate from the fridge body. After unscrewing and removing the plate, I made sure to note which lines came from which areas of the fridge and where the lines ended up at the dual water valve, and how they were routed through the plate and into the valve. The way this fridge is setup, the water source line screws into a main line that heads to the top of the fridge where the water filter is (like a "line in"). There's another line that heads back down to the bottom of the fridge (line out). The "line out" inserts into the outside plug of the dual water valve. The two lines coming out of the dual water valve are different sizes. Make sure to note which line goes to the icemaker and which line goes to the water dispenser inside the fridge. Once I knew which lines needed to go where, I grabbed my empty bucket, pulled the water lines out of the dual water valve with some pliers, and emptied the water into the bucket. After cleaning up any water splatter with my dry towels, I unscrewed the dual water valve from the plate. Once the old dual water valve was removed, I replaced it with the new valve and screwed it back into the plate. I cut off just a bit of the water line ends that were damaged due to pulling with the pliers, and then inserted them back into the correct spots on the dual water valve. I screwed the plate back into the fridge, reconnected the water source line (make sure to use some kind of water sealer tape or putty), plugged the fridge back into the electrical socket, turned the water source valve back on, and waited for leaks. No leaks! Once I was convinced there weren't any leaks, I had to bleed the water lines for about 20-30 minutes (it takes FOREVER...) by putting my bucket under the water dispenser inside the fridge and holding the water button for what seemed like an eternity - until the water was streaming steadily out of the dispenser. Voila! Good as new! Keep in mind that I didn't go through ALL the minute parts of each step - that would take too long. I'm believing that you'll be perceptive enough to catch the small things like looking at how the lines are routed into the dual water valve and where things are screwed into. Use your BRAIN, and you'll be fine. :-)

Begin by turning off the water source from the wall, next using a line wrench, remove the brass water line fitting nut from the copper water line from the wall. Next remove the second water line from the plastic push fitting by depressing the fitting to release the water line. Remove the Styrofoam insulation piece that resides between the water lines that run into the refrigerator, then pull the old filter head out. Reverse steps for installation.

Freezer would get cold at bottom and some of the refrigerator. Took of freezer back panel and located freezer fan. Took a meter and saw power was getting to it, but not working. Removed fan and replaced with new on, working like a charm. Cold air was not circulating enough throughout the unit because fan was not working. It was not the thermostat or adapter control.

I pulled the whole unit(condenser&overload relay)
with my hand & disconnected the wire connected
to it & Replaced it with the new one.Peace of cake.

Remove bottom panel in freezer side to get access to the coil.Remove old heater element and defrost thermostat.Installed new hearter and thermostat.Screw back bottom panel re-start frige.

It was great. We replaced the thermistor A little difficult to get to the thermistor but once we found it five minutes. My refrigerator seems happy but we will monitor it and see.

Cut wires and removed old thermosat. Spliced new thermostat wires into exsiting wire. Put it all back together. Works great now. Thanks for all the help. Your site is great. Only problem we had was getting the part from FED EX. Took over 2 weeks had to go pick up the part ourselfs.

Unplugged refrigerator. Removed lower back access panels and panel running up the back of refrigerator. Removed and disconnected old fan. Removed old fan motor from mounting bracket. Removed fan blade from old fan motor and placed on new fan motor. Connected new fan motor to power supply. Tested. Reinstalled.