BCS42ELE General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

First I removed the screw holding the valve in place. I then pulled the valve out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires and water line.
I repaced the old valve with the new valve and performed the steps in reverse order and the ice maker was making ice that night. I however developed a leak and had to have another valve sent. The problem has been solved and all is well.
Parts select has been fast, friendly and helpful through my whole experience. I would like to say thanks for all your courteous help and hopefully this will help others realize the benefit of Parts select to us do-it-ourselfer!.

Thank you!

Jeff Lopian
Athens, Illinois

Plastic lines were cracked open right at valve and leaking water onto floor. Bad design on GE's part, plastic lines where heat was produced by compressor.

Turned off water supply.

Removed cardboard panel at rear bottom of refrigerator.

Unscrewed copper fill tube clamp.

Took copper fill tube off of valve using 1/2 inch (I think) open end wrench. This used compression fitting.

Removed solenoid by unscrewing one hex-head screws.

Pulled off two electrical connectors.

Trimmed ends of plastic tubes (they were hardened by heat, and will likely leak again.)

Pushed tubed into new solenoid valves (original connection was via some plastic nut and fitting.)

Reattached electrical connectors, using lug adapters (included in package) on one to make up for slightly narrower terminal on new valve.

Reattached copper fill line to valve using original compression fitting. **Had to bend line to make it fit between new lower valve inlet and screw clamp on refrigerator housing.** That was only slightly tricky part of job.

Reattached valve to refrigerator and replaced cardboard panel.

Turned water on and everything worked, and no leaks.

Will likely need to do this again when old stiff lines crack again.

Shut the water off to it. Carefully moved the refrigerator away from the wall to avoid damage to the copper piped water. Removed the cardboard cover at the bottom and rear. Layed a towel down to catch water. unscrewed the copper water line from the leaky double valve unit. Removed the old double valve unit by unscrewing the single support screw. Installed the new unit in reverse order without following the directions that suggested using the old support structure. Took the opportunity to vacuum the cooling coils while back there, but broke an impeller on the cooling fan which is requiring further maintenance. Be careful!

removed two screws holding water valve in place; pull out valve and remove water supply line; remove two water lines going into box; connect lines to new valve and reinstall

Removed the hoses and the old valve; numbered the electrical and hose connections on the old wires and valve with a marker to make connection easier;

Had to cut the hose fittings, since the new valve was a simple hose insertion and the old had screw-on fittings.

Installed the new valve. The ice maker works fine. However, the dispenser does not work; apparently there is no signal from the switches to the devices. But at least I have ice.

Disconnected the power, removed the unit by removing 1 screw. Disconnected both water hoses and 2 electric connectors. Wasted alot of time trying to follow the directions that came with the valve. DO NOT try to use the old bracket as the instructions state. It does not work. Just use the valve as it arrives. I liked the easy snap in water tube connectors. Saves time. The electric was a snap. Just install the adapters (lugs) that come with the kit and push them on. Then, just bolt the unit back in and that's it. I did also have a problem with the unit making a screeching noise when it dispensed water. I asked Parts Select for a remedy and they suggested I replace the water filter. That solved the noise problem and now it's like new again. Way to go Parts Select! Thanks for the advice and speedy delivery.

remove old valve, water lines and electrical wires and replace water lines, duel water valve and wires

replace entire inlet valve (block)

Un-plugged the refrigerator, removed the existing water valve and pressure fittings; replaced the old tubing and reconnected the faston connectors using the two adaptors provided.

Took about 30 minutes.

Works fine although the sound of filling the ice-tray is a bit lauder that the previous valve.

I removed the old valve assembly from the refrigerator's cabinet with a nut driver. I then pushed the lines for the water dispenser and ice maker into the valve and attached it to the cabinet. After connecting the water supply we had ice and water.

Shut off water & elect to refg. moved refg out from wall. Removed back cover. disconnected water & electric connections. Removed old valve and installed new one . Plastic tube fit in same place elect pins (4) snapped in place. Used teflon tape when connecting copper plumbing to stop leaks. Also cut old tubing & replaced copper 1/4" compression ring. Note I ordered part before noon on thursday, part arrived fri AM 9:00 FedEx.reg service. cleaned up mess picked up tools. Refg worked like new. saved money on service call. Thanks

Condenser fan motor was running slow. This was not a problem included in your list of possible problems. I thought that maybe the capacitor was bad but have no way to check it. So I ordered one. when I received it, I installed it. That was not the problem. So I ordered a fan motor and installed it. That was not the problem. So finally I ordered a control board and installed it. That solved the problem. So maybe you should put "cond.fan motor runs slow" in your list of possible faults and what causes that problem. Capacitor was easy to install, simply remove the cover plate, flip off retaining wire, unplug the capacitor and replace. Fan motor was a bit more difficult. It must be removed from mount after fan scroll is removed. Remove one screw that holds scroll, bend the top down and remove. Then pull hard on fan blade to remove it. It must be installed on new motor. Two screws in frame mount can be removed with some effort if you have a 1/4" drive ratchet with a Phillips screwdriver bit. Then pull frame open and install new motor. Push fan blade on new motor shaft hard. Replacing control board was easy. I used a pair of long nose pliers with 90 degree bend to get mounting pins closed to pull board off.

1. Turn water supply off at wall. Unpulg referigerator. Remove all cardboard backing covering valve. Vaccum under ref. Unscrew water line where it attaches to valve on ref. (Reuse this later) unplug 4 electrical prongs. Mark with colored pen if not already color coded, so can put back correctly. Pull old ice maker and ref water supply out of valve if it does not screw in with nut. Cut very short peice off end of ref water lines. Slide new locks on water supply lines and push into water valve very hard to lock. Cant get them wrong as they are different sizes. Plug in electrical connectors same as you unpluged them. Connect water line to valve from wall. Turn water on and check for leaks. If none. Replace all screws on backing. Recheck for water on floor. If none congrads, just saved yourself about $120. 00 Labor. Take 2 asprin, drink a six pack and go to bed.

Ordered this part after i replaced the plastic tubes on the back as the problem persisted. loosen the nuts holding the water inlet lines, remove the cover to the valve. remove the valve and the water inlet line to the the valve. Disconnect the 2 outlets from the valve. 1 outlet to icemaker and other outlet to water cooler (bigger). Connect water inlet and 2 outlets to the new valve, test the water lines. Found the inlet is leaking, removed it and added teflon tape and reconnect it. All is done. Then I left the freezer door open for 3 hours to melt the ice on the wrong places and all is well.

I noticed water leaking from the bottom right rear of the fridge. I figured it was from the ice maker feed as I don't have the ice water feature on this GE profile. I shut the water supply off, ordered the part and received it in a few days. The defective part was easily accessible after I removed the cardboard cover. I removed the copper feed and unscrewed the old valve with a nutdriver. The new part fit perfectly, and even though there were instructions in the part to use the old bracket. the plastic water feed fit into the ice maker compression fitting with ease. I ran into a problem when I re-installed the copper compression fitting on the new valve,as I could not stop a leak from the top of the compression fitting. When my plumber originally installed the copper line he used enough pressure to deform the compression sleeve that slips over the copper tube. I had a couple of them in my "parts" drawer, so I took my tubing cutter and took 1/2" of the end of the copper supply line; slipped the new sleeve and re-installed the compression nut over the valve....fit perfectly. Turned on the water supply; no leaks. Checked the icemaker about 4 hours later and it made the first tray of ice. If I didn't have to deal with the water supply leak at the fitting, the job would have been finished in 30 to 45 minutes.