BCS42ELE General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Turn off water supply line. Use Nut Driver to remove bolt holding assembly to the fridge. Disconnect (2) electrical connectors. Use wrench to disconnect water supply line, (NOTE: Since this unit is a universal type replacement, it did not re-mount to the fridge in the same fashion as the old assembly. I had to play with it to determine how to mount the new assembly in order to align & pick-up the existing bolt hole). Snap on the provided electrical connector adapter prongs and reconnect both connectors. Apply teflon tape on threads of water supply line fitting (optional). Tighten (do not over-tightened) water supply line to assembly (wrench). Use dikes to cut off compression fittings from both the ice and chilled water dispenser lines. Push lines into assembly. Re-mount assembly to fridge. Turn on water supply line. Check for leaks.

It is a dream with less than a minute I unscrew the old part and install the new part

We pulled out our refrigerator and found the leak coming from a valve that controlled the purified water and ice machine. We shut of the water source at our filter system and then removed the part. Looked online and found the part we needed at a great price. Ordered it and installed it when it arrived 3 days later. Easy install and we now have water and ice coming from our refrigerator again- not to mention a clean floor underneath too.

Turned off water, ordered part based on photo and partial appliance model number (my model number was not listed); removed old part using hand wrench and nutdriver: slid existing retaining nuts up waterlines(left on for furture reuse if needed) and slid lines into "Pex" type connectors and remounted (one screw) valve to refrigerator and turned on water.

Note: From Part ordered to received was less than 36 hours!

My dog ate the plastic portion of the new part before it was installed.

loosened connections of lines removed bolt holding valve pulled off wire connections new valve lines just pushed in reconnected wires put bolt back in and thats all there was to it no problems at all

It was very easy replacement. I was sent a different style that allowed for the water tubes to be pushed in compression wise instead of havinf to screw them on. The water was going ok to the cold water in the door but was not functioning for the ice maker. I had already replaced the ice maker unit due to a couple of missing teeth in the turn wheel but still could not get the water to fill. The original problem was created by the missing teeth creating a steady flow of water ultimately all over the floor. It took booth units to fix the problem and now the ice maker works as it should. The valve came with the proper connectors and the toughest part of the job was pulling out the frig. Nice to have something work as described and fit perfectly. A simple nut driver or socket was all that was needed for the entire job.

Pulled unit away from wall. Removed lower panel. Turned off water and electricity. Removed two nuts holding valve. Disconnected electrial wiring. Cut water lines going into old valve close to the valve so the lines could be reused with new unit. Installed new valve by pressing lines into valve, reconnected electricity. Put two screws back in. Turned on water and electricity. Works great. No leaks. Results of leaks required hardwood floor to be repaired (sanded and refinished). Stayed away from kitchen for nine (9) days. Need to check for leaks everytime you clean under the refrigerator.

Changing the valve was easy, remove and replace. The problem came afterwards. After shuting off the water and waiting for the replacement valve, the water line coming in to the icemaker froze solid causing water to spray into the freezer, causing a major leak. After thawing out the line, it still leaked because the water in the freezer had frozen up the freezer drain again causing another leak.Bottom line, after replaceing the valve, take a few extra minutes to check or replace the water line coming to the icemaker. That will save a headache later.

removed backing from the refrigerator then unscrewed the pump from refrigerator unhooked the electrial connections. Then hooked up new pump by connectioning the elctrical then putting water connections back on with the quick connects then plugged refrigetator back in the reinstalled back of refrigerator and slide back into place as simple as 123

Unpluged frig . Removed back at bottom of frig . Removed mounting bracket, removed two water supply tubes diconnected two electical plugs fron water valve
Then installed new valve in reverse order. Except for plastic housing which required some manipulation /squeezed to fit it worked great
P.S.don't forget to turn off water supply to frig. Ha Ha

replaced it with a new updated water valve. It was a bit different however the basics were the same-had great instructions with the valve-box is 21 years old so was a little worried about finding the part--thanks to the internet I found your great ad and info was easy to pull up-schematic sure helped. Now enjoying my Jack Daniels with perfect ice. Thanks a million. Bob Valdepena

After turning of and unplugging the refrigerator, it consisted of removing the screws on the back panel. The old part had three fitting with compression nuts. I was surprised to find the new part only had onecompression nut on the water supply and the other two lines were "slip" fittings. I was a little concerned about using the existing tubing, but had no leaks. I checked to make sure the water dispenser was working before I pushed the unit back and good that I did because I had inadverently switched electrical connections. Overall, this was still an easy job.

After hunting around I found that the inlet water valve was leaking. I turned off the water and ordered a new part from Part Select. It came and I put it in. I had to disconnected the three water lines (one in, two out) and the electrical connections. Keep track of what came from where. I plugged everything back into the new valve. Piece of cake.

Repair work was straight forward except for the change in fittings. The copper water supply line was originally connected to the valve by a flared fitting but the new valve required a ferrule type connection. It was necessary to cut the tubing and to obtain a new nut and ferrule. Likewise the plastic water lines feeding the ice maker and chilled water supply had to be cut so that they could be connected to the "shark bite" type fitting.......no plastic nuts required.