BCS42ELE General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

pulled out frig unplugged power turned off water at tank disconnected water line and electrical plugs replaced valve replaced wire hook ups different size but easy to install.(came with valve) Cut water lines off inserted into valve different sizes so easy to connect in right place. Reattached electrical wires. (Note remember were the wires came from) Checked for leaks Done! Might want to make sure tubes are inserted completely and you cut the tubes off straight...possible water leak if not.

Easy. Followed the video instrucations. the part was right there next to the compressor.

Observing the ice maker itself was working, and that water was flowing to the dual inlet water valve, I assumed the problem must be a faulty outflow valve. If either of the two valves do not close completely, the water slowly accumulates in the plastic line and freezes as it enters the freezer compartment. A solid plug of ice will form in the line, either causing no water to enter the ice tray, or it may leak under pressure when the valve opens briefly (as was my case). The solution was simple: change the dual inlet valve, and while this took me approximately 15 minutes to 1)turn off electricity and water to the frig, and 2)replace the part, the plastic tube going to the ice tray warmed up enough as I watched a one inch plug of ice exit the tubing. Once the power and water was turned on, and I checked for leaks, the ice maker worked like new! Not bad for a $30 fix.

I'm a real novice at appliance repair but learned a lot from this effort. After doing enough online research and watching videos, I diagnosed the problem with my 20 year old ice maker. It was working, just not getting water. So I ordered a new water valve, much cheaper than the part Sears recommended. I easily hooked up the new valve but the old copper water supply line was leaking so I ordered a $7 pex line from Home Depot. Hooked it all back up and now I'm in business, and saved some money too!

I pulled the refrigerator away from the wall. I turned the water supply valve off. With a nut driver I removed the screws holding the flexible cover on the back of the refrigerator, and set it aside. Next, again using the nut driver, I removed the screw form the clamp holding the copper tubing to the back of the refrigerator. Using a 1/2 inch open end wrench I took the copper tube off the water valve. Then, using the nut driver I removed the screw which holds the valve in place. I then unplugged the electrical wiring,and removed the two flexible tubes. I pulled the compression nuts from the flexible tubes, and inserted them into the new water valve, re-connecter the electrical wiring plugs, mounted the new valve to the refrigerator, reconnected the copper tubing to the new valve, turned the water supply valve on to be sure there was no leaks, secured the copper tubing to the refrigerator replaced the flexible cover, and then moved the refrigerator back in it's original position.

I turned off the power and water supply to the refrigerator Pulled fridge out,found leak at water valve. Removed valve,got on internet found partsselect and was able to match it up by model and picture. It was a lot easier than I expected it to be, thanks to the pictures. I ordered the part on Sunday night and got it Tuesday. Unbelievable. Put it in in about 10 minutes and drinking cold water with ice cubes again. The fridge wasnt down long enough to acually run out of ice. the fridge is 12 years old and keeping its maintenance low is a priority. If I had to hire a repair service we would probably thought seriously about replacing it.

Unplug the refrigerator. Remove the bottom panel the locate the valve on the left side of the refrigerator. Remove the valve. Unplug the two electrical connecters, then remove the two water lines. (At this point there will be a little water escape). Then replace the lines in the new valve, replace the electrical plugs and reassemble the bottom panel.

I replaced the thermostat, temperature sensor, and the run capacitor. . . Refrigerator still not cooling. I checked the start relay and measured the input terminals on the compressor for the correct resistance. . . Everything measured correctly. In a last ditch effort before calling for service, I pulled the main board, inspected it and saw the problem right away. One leg on the compression capacitor had desoldered itself. Got out my soldering iron and applied a good amount of solder to that point. Put everything back together and turn it on. . . Problem fixed. The compressor kicked on right away and started cooling the refrigerator.

Recently changed the "under the sink" water filter because ice was getting really small-the filter was old. Ran great for a month or two. Then.....no ice. Water pressure ok. Even filled the ice tray in the ice maker and when frozen it kicked it out.....but no more. Repair took 15 minutes......pretty easy. When I called local appliance repair......they estimated it would cost $200-$250. My part was $44.

Shut off water & elect to refg. moved refg out from wall. Removed back cover. disconnected water & electric connections. Removed old valve and installed new one . Plastic tube fit in same place elect pins (4) snapped in place. Used teflon tape when connecting copper plumbing to stop leaks. Also cut old tubing & replaced copper 1/4" compression ring. Note I ordered part before noon on thursday, part arrived fri AM 9:00 FedEx.reg service. cleaned up mess picked up tools. Refg worked like new. saved money on service call. Thanks

I pulled the Refrig out of the space so that I could get to the plug and water shut off. After unplugging and turning the water off, I had to remove the 7 screws holding the cardboard cover over the bottom portion of the Refrig. I then had to unloosen the water input to the the valve. Then I removed the screw holding the Water Valve. I then had to unplug the unit from the electrical connectors. After that I had to cut the plastic hoses off the valve. All that was left was to reconnect everything, replace the cardboard covering and do an operational test. Everything worked. The ice maker began to produce ice cubes and there were no leaks.

Condenser fan motor was running slow. This was not a problem included in your list of possible problems. I thought that maybe the capacitor was bad but have no way to check it. So I ordered one. when I received it, I installed it. That was not the problem. So I ordered a fan motor and installed it. That was not the problem. So finally I ordered a control board and installed it. That solved the problem. So maybe you should put "cond.fan motor runs slow" in your list of possible faults and what causes that problem. Capacitor was easy to install, simply remove the cover plate, flip off retaining wire, unplug the capacitor and replace. Fan motor was a bit more difficult. It must be removed from mount after fan scroll is removed. Remove one screw that holds scroll, bend the top down and remove. Then pull hard on fan blade to remove it. It must be installed on new motor. Two screws in frame mount can be removed with some effort if you have a 1/4" drive ratchet with a Phillips screwdriver bit. Then pull frame open and install new motor. Push fan blade on new motor shaft hard. Replacing control board was easy. I used a pair of long nose pliers with 90 degree bend to get mounting pins closed to pull board off.

1. Turn water supply off at wall. Unpulg referigerator. Remove all cardboard backing covering valve. Vaccum under ref. Unscrew water line where it attaches to valve on ref. (Reuse this later) unplug 4 electrical prongs. Mark with colored pen if not already color coded, so can put back correctly. Pull old ice maker and ref water supply out of valve if it does not screw in with nut. Cut very short peice off end of ref water lines. Slide new locks on water supply lines and push into water valve very hard to lock. Cant get them wrong as they are different sizes. Plug in electrical connectors same as you unpluged them. Connect water line to valve from wall. Turn water on and check for leaks. If none. Replace all screws on backing. Recheck for water on floor. If none congrads, just saved yourself about $120. 00 Labor. Take 2 asprin, drink a six pack and go to bed.

Ordered this part after i replaced the plastic tubes on the back as the problem persisted. loosen the nuts holding the water inlet lines, remove the cover to the valve. remove the valve and the water inlet line to the the valve. Disconnect the 2 outlets from the valve. 1 outlet to icemaker and other outlet to water cooler (bigger). Connect water inlet and 2 outlets to the new valve, test the water lines. Found the inlet is leaking, removed it and added teflon tape and reconnect it. All is done. Then I left the freezer door open for 3 hours to melt the ice on the wrong places and all is well.

Removal of old part was very easy. However, there had been some new changes to the new valve. The prongs on the dispenser solenoid are narrower than the original so the push on connector would not grasp the prong and kept falling off. I finally was able to squash and crimp the pushon enough to make it stay on . Also, the waterline connection was changed from a compression nut with flared tubing end to a much easier cap nut and copper compression ring. This required a trip to the hardware store to buy the cap nut and ring and also required cutting the tubing above the flared end to remove the compression nut. Once this was done, the reassembly was simple. The required time would have been about 20 minutes if I didn't have to go to the store and redisassemble three times to reconnect the water supply solenoid push on..