TFX22PRSBBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Kenmore 24 cu.ft. Side by Side Refrigerator. The bottom cam on the fresh food side of our refrigerator broke causing the door to stay open about 4 inches. We had to lift the door up about an inch to close it. We removed the top bracket cover by removing one screw with a screwdriver. We then removed two screws with a ratchet and socket, to remove the top bracket, which allowed us to lift the door up and off of the refrigerator. We removed two screws with a socket to remove the Door Cam and Shim. We replace the Shim, and Door Cam with the two screws. Make sure you line the Cam up with the hole it goes over, and tighten it up. Place the door over the bottom bracket, and replace and adjust the top bracket and cover.

Unplugged and shut off water. Popped off the face plate from below. Unscrewed 4 screws. Pulled out control board assembly. Pulled off two wire connectors. Unscrewed 2 screws to remove control board fastener. Replaced control board and reversed steps to assemble. When plugged in fridge, the switch was stuck on, so unplugged. Had to remove the rubber push plate and reassemble making sure the plastic lever was set properly in the control board. Reassembled and it worked properly.

I replaced the control board and the solenoid. This was very simple and easy to do. Make sure the power is disconneted before starting. I then removed the accuator pad and holder. Removed the face plate by simply pulling on it. I then removed the four screws holding the control board unit. I unplugged the unite by pulling the block connector on the left side. I then marked on paper the connections to the solenoid and unplugged it. I removed the three screws holding the solenoid the removed it. When installing the new solenoid make certain the rod to the dispenser is put into the solenoid plunger. Then replace the three screws and plug the wires back in using the connections written down on paper. I then removed the two philips screws on the control unit hold down bracket in order to remove the controll board. After removing the screws and the hold down bracket, I pulled the old board out and put the new one in. I then reinstalled the unit, faceplate, and accuator pad. I then turned the power back on and tested it. Worked like new, saving a lot of money...

Unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the panel to the ice/water dispenser. Removed the cover that displays ice type/water and light. Removed the 4 screws holding the cover. Unplugged the wiring harness to the cover which allowed easy access to the two electrical connections to the solenoid.
Removed the three bottem screws holding the solenoid in place. Loosened the top screw ( do not remove completely) and the solenoid slide down. Removed the solenoid arm that hangs on door latch.
Install hang solenoid arm on door latch; slide solenoid up under top screw. Install bottom 3 screws to hold solenoid in place then tighten top screw. Reattach electrical lines to solenoid then plug wiring harness back into cover. Install 4 screws holding panel in place. Re-install two remaining covers.

Performed self test.turned off ice maker switch four 5 minutes.Then turn on switch,within 10 seconds,pushed ice paddle 3 times,with 1 second in between each push.Push all the way back and release. Ice maker should cycle and squirt water. My ice maker did neither.I unplugged cord from fridge.So i replaced the ice maker.After a couple of screws had ice again !

The internal water line was leaking. I could not find any repair parts for my refrigerator but the GE 5/16 water line was the same size. I purchased 6' of tubing and two unions. Make sure the clean and square. If possible, make the cuts in a spot where you can use the pliers and wrench to tighten the union. I cut approximately 2' out of the existing line and replaced it with the same length of new line using the 2 unions, one on each end. Took about 5 minutes.

removed broken bin , slid new ice bin in closed door. I bought the complete part.

I ended up needing to order a new ice maker because the one I had is discontinued. I'm a 65yr old grandma and I did it myself!!!! The hardest part was finding the tool to loosed the nuts. I took the old one out and just put the new one right in it's place. Easy as pie.

removed panel from front. removed old circuit. Replaced with new. It worked as hoped. Replacement doesn't get any better than that.

When I got home I pulled the refrigerator away from the floor, checked all the water lines for leak evidence, and then took the back panel off to check everything behind. The water valve was leaking at the hose insert locations. I turned off the water, spent less than 5 minutes disassembling the valve from the rerfrigerator, and got online to buy another one. The part arrived several days before expected, and it took me less time to install the new part than it did to take the old one out. Now all I have to do is repair the floor damage I caused when pulling out the refirgerator!

First I remove the 4 screw that connect the control board to the icemaker and then removed two more screws hold the control board in place and unpluged the control board and put the new one in and plugged it back up and put all the screws back and it was done I had no more problems

I layed several small 2x4 blocks on the floor, then raised the door up from the hinge, using the small pry bar. Then removed the the screws for the hinge. Removed the screws holding the door stop and removed the door cam. Then, I replaced the door closing cam. Replaced the hinge and screws. I Lowered the door on to the hinge and applied a little lubricant to the cam and job complete.

Cut out cracked tubing between valve and where tubing enters into refrigerator. Cut new tubing to length and attach to existing using union.

Shut water supply off, removed power plug from wall and removed electrical connector from valve. Unscrewed two plastic nuts which retained lines to old valve. Remove old valve and reinstalled new valve with one screw. Removed inserts from end of lines. (These inserts keep lines from deforming.). Trimmed and chamfered ends of lines reinstalled inserts and installed lines to new valve. Turned on watter, checked for leaks turned power on inserted glass for water received good flow. Ice maker did not receive water. Due to low flow of water to ice tray because of low flow with old valve, ice built up in flexable water delivery tube that goes from back of refrigator to ice tray. Removed tube ran under warm water removed ice blockage reinstall tube all working excelent. This iceing problem took about anouther 15 to 25 min to correct.

Well I Googled the problem to the dual inlet water valve. Luckily I found PartSelect for the correct part and the installation was simple. I now have both the cubes and water working properly from the dispense.