TPJ24BIBAWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

loosened connections of lines removed bolt holding valve pulled off wire connections new valve lines just pushed in reconnected wires put bolt back in and thats all there was to it no problems at all

Pulled unit away from wall. Removed lower panel. Turned off water and electricity. Removed two nuts holding valve. Disconnected electrial wiring. Cut water lines going into old valve close to the valve so the lines could be reused with new unit. Installed new valve by pressing lines into valve, reconnected electricity. Put two screws back in. Turned on water and electricity. Works great. No leaks. Results of leaks required hardwood floor to be repaired (sanded and refinished). Stayed away from kitchen for nine (9) days. Need to check for leaks everytime you clean under the refrigerator.

Changing the valve was easy, remove and replace. The problem came afterwards. After shuting off the water and waiting for the replacement valve, the water line coming in to the icemaker froze solid causing water to spray into the freezer, causing a major leak. After thawing out the line, it still leaked because the water in the freezer had frozen up the freezer drain again causing another leak.Bottom line, after replaceing the valve, take a few extra minutes to check or replace the water line coming to the icemaker. That will save a headache later.

First I removed the screw holding the valve in place. I then pulled the valve out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires and water line.
I repaced the old valve with the new valve and performed the steps in reverse order and the ice maker was making ice that night. I however developed a leak and had to have another valve sent. The problem has been solved and all is well.
Parts select has been fast, friendly and helpful through my whole experience. I would like to say thanks for all your courteous help and hopefully this will help others realize the benefit of Parts select to us do-it-ourselfer!.

Thank you!

Jeff Lopian
Athens, Illinois

removed backing from the refrigerator then unscrewed the pump from refrigerator unhooked the electrial connections. Then hooked up new pump by connectioning the elctrical then putting water connections back on with the quick connects then plugged refrigetator back in the reinstalled back of refrigerator and slide back into place as simple as 123

Disconnected the power, removed the unit by removing 1 screw. Disconnected both water hoses and 2 electric connectors. Wasted alot of time trying to follow the directions that came with the valve. DO NOT try to use the old bracket as the instructions state. It does not work. Just use the valve as it arrives. I liked the easy snap in water tube connectors. Saves time. The electric was a snap. Just install the adapters (lugs) that come with the kit and push them on. Then, just bolt the unit back in and that's it. I did also have a problem with the unit making a screeching noise when it dispensed water. I asked Parts Select for a remedy and they suggested I replace the water filter. That solved the noise problem and now it's like new again. Way to go Parts Select! Thanks for the advice and speedy delivery.

Unpluged frig . Removed back at bottom of frig . Removed mounting bracket, removed two water supply tubes diconnected two electical plugs fron water valve
Then installed new valve in reverse order. Except for plastic housing which required some manipulation /squeezed to fit it worked great
P.S.don't forget to turn off water supply to frig. Ha Ha

After turning of and unplugging the refrigerator, it consisted of removing the screws on the back panel. The old part had three fitting with compression nuts. I was surprised to find the new part only had onecompression nut on the water supply and the other two lines were "slip" fittings. I was a little concerned about using the existing tubing, but had no leaks. I checked to make sure the water dispenser was working before I pushed the unit back and good that I did because I had inadverently switched electrical connections. Overall, this was still an easy job.

After hunting around I found that the inlet water valve was leaking. I turned off the water and ordered a new part from Part Select. It came and I put it in. I had to disconnected the three water lines (one in, two out) and the electrical connections. Keep track of what came from where. I plugged everything back into the new valve. Piece of cake.

Repair work was straight forward except for the change in fittings. The copper water supply line was originally connected to the valve by a flared fitting but the new valve required a ferrule type connection. It was necessary to cut the tubing and to obtain a new nut and ferrule. Likewise the plastic water lines feeding the ice maker and chilled water supply had to be cut so that they could be connected to the "shark bite" type fitting.......no plastic nuts required.

replaced it with a new updated water valve. It was a bit different however the basics were the same-had great instructions with the valve-box is 21 years old so was a little worried about finding the part--thanks to the internet I found your great ad and info was easy to pull up-schematic sure helped. Now enjoying my Jack Daniels with perfect ice. Thanks a million. Bob Valdepena

removed two screws holding water valve in place; pull out valve and remove water supply line; remove two water lines going into box; connect lines to new valve and reinstall

Removed the hoses and the old valve; numbered the electrical and hose connections on the old wires and valve with a marker to make connection easier;

Had to cut the hose fittings, since the new valve was a simple hose insertion and the old had screw-on fittings.

Installed the new valve. The ice maker works fine. However, the dispenser does not work; apparently there is no signal from the switches to the devices. But at least I have ice.

Shut the water off to it. Carefully moved the refrigerator away from the wall to avoid damage to the copper piped water. Removed the cardboard cover at the bottom and rear. Layed a towel down to catch water. unscrewed the copper water line from the leaky double valve unit. Removed the old double valve unit by unscrewing the single support screw. Installed the new unit in reverse order without following the directions that suggested using the old support structure. Took the opportunity to vacuum the cooling coils while back there, but broke an impeller on the cooling fan which is requiring further maintenance. Be careful!

Plastic lines were cracked open right at valve and leaking water onto floor. Bad design on GE's part, plastic lines where heat was produced by compressor.

Turned off water supply.

Removed cardboard panel at rear bottom of refrigerator.

Unscrewed copper fill tube clamp.

Took copper fill tube off of valve using 1/2 inch (I think) open end wrench. This used compression fitting.

Removed solenoid by unscrewing one hex-head screws.

Pulled off two electrical connectors.

Trimmed ends of plastic tubes (they were hardened by heat, and will likely leak again.)

Pushed tubed into new solenoid valves (original connection was via some plastic nut and fitting.)

Reattached electrical connectors, using lug adapters (included in package) on one to make up for slightly narrower terminal on new valve.

Reattached copper fill line to valve using original compression fitting. **Had to bend line to make it fit between new lower valve inlet and screw clamp on refrigerator housing.** That was only slightly tricky part of job.

Reattached valve to refrigerator and replaced cardboard panel.

Turned water on and everything worked, and no leaks.

Will likely need to do this again when old stiff lines crack again.