TPJ24BIBAWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Very quick and easy repair. Took off cover to access valve using standardr screw driver. After shutting off water supply to valve disconnected copper water supply line. Used a large towel to catch any residual water in line. Removed two water lines on valve use plies if more than hand tight to loosen. Removed screw holding valve in place, removed valve and disconnected wires (be sure power to frig is off least you get a shock. Reverse proceedure to install new valve. new valve has simple push in connections for plastic water lines. Install two electrical adpaters and electric lines. Mount valve with screw, connect copper water line. Turn water back on and check for leaks. Turn power on and check for proper water running at dispenser. Again check for any leaks. No leaks, install cover and you are done.

I Took the six screws off the back panel to get to underneath the refridgerator. took the 2 screws out of the bracket thast holds on the water valve took the 2 lines off and then put everything back

Disconnected the power and then the water line. Removed the cardboard shield on back of the refrig. Then removed the faulty solenoid which was held in place by one bolt. Removed the two plastic water hoses and two sets of electrical connectors. I then reversed the process to install the new solenoid. I encountered two challenges. The new solenoid had a plastic housing that had to be removed and one set of the electrical connectors required an extension. The extensions were included with the solenoid, but there were no instructions.

Used the parts diagram from PartSelect.com to locate the valve. Removed the old valve and disconnected inlet water line and the 2 outlet water lines(one for ice maker & one for water dispencer). Reconnected water lines to new valve and positioned it back in place on the refrigerator. Problem solved -no more drip, drip, drip.

Easy. First, unplug the fridge.

1)Shut off then disconnect water line.

2)Remove water valve mount screw.

3)Disconnect electrical plugs and snip water lines (square cut lines for new valve).

4)Simply insert and seat water lines into their respective places on the new valve. Using adapters as needed, reconnect electrical plugs.

5)Mount valve and reconnect water line.

6)Turn on water supply and check for leaks. Possible leaks: water line or not fully seated lines to the new valve.

7)Restore power and enjoy :o)

Received the first water valve with very poor included instructions. Watched the suggested instructional YouTube for my part installation which was very well done except my new part was not identical to my old part or the one in the YouTube. A translucent plastic housing on the part obstructed the installation so I needed to trim part of it away with a tin shear before attaching the part to the refrig. The waterline attachments were slip fit rather than what my old part had with compression nuts. I replaced all the plastic water lines using the slip fittings, turned the water back on and- all fittings leaked. Undid the fittings, trimmed the water lines and reattached- still leaked. So I contacted customer service who sent out a new part and followed the above procedure and everything went quickly with no leaks. I suggest you replace the two plastic water lines ( you will need to buy two slip fittings and two diameter lines) these are available at Home Depot. There is also a YouTube for this and it is a must see. My main supply line to the refrigerator is copper tubing. I trimmed the end of the tubing, filed it smoot, steelwooled the surface and installed a new brass compression ring befor reactching to the valve. Note, because of the first leaks, I found it easier to make all my connections including the electrical, plug the refrigerator back in and active the ice maker and water dispenser before reaching the valve the the frig back. Good luck.

This should have been an extremely easy, quick job, but because I'm not that familiar with refrigerator parts, and NO INSTRUCTIONS came with the part, it took quite a while. The fittings for the water lines to icemaker and water outlet were dramatically different from the old part. The old part had screw-on fittings. The new one did not. I went first to Ace hardware-they had never seen fitting like this, and didn't know what to tell me. I drove 20 minutes to Home Depot, and the guy there told me that, rather then screwing on, or needing another part, the fittings were a quick connect, where you just shove the plastic tubing into the fitting. Finally an answer!

I went home, did as he'd said, hooked it up (shoved the tubing in, used the provided electrical adapters for the contacts, and screwed the thing on. It takes a good while for the icemaker to get cold enough to start it's cycle (which I found out from an internet search), and about 6 hours later, I started getting ice. It works fine now, love the in the door water/ice on my "new" 10-12 year old $75 plus $35 for the part-huge 26.6 side by side refrigerator, but the part should have had at least an indication that the water fittings just needed to have the tubing shoved into them.

Removed lower cover screws removed cover removed copper water feed tubing connector unplugged wire connectors pulled out plastic water line connector and water lines removed water valve assembly installed water lines installed wire connectors secured valve assembly reinstalled copper water line turned on water valve checked for leaks reinstalled lower rear cover

I unplugged the refrigerator and shut off the water. I removed the back of the frig where the inlet valve is located. I removed the old nuts and cut the plastic water line on the ends. I shoved them into the new fittings. I then turned on the water and plugged in the frig. I could hear the water pumping into the ice maker. I screwed the inlet and back of refrigerator in place.

Easy

Removed three screws, water input line, two water output lines. The new valve had push on fittings instead of screw on, so had to cut the old fittings off. Connecte input and output lines Replaced three screws holding valve in place. Turned water back on. Finished.

The valve I got was slightly bent up. I spent the first 10 minutes or so bending it back with my muscles. once that was done, I took off the backing of the fridge with the screwdriver, undid the single bolt holding the valve on, and unplugged it all (fridge was already unplugged). Just like everyone says, the tubing connecter is different, so I took off the old compression fittings, and pushed the tubes in. THen I hooked up the wiring... I realized that that the wiring adapter was needed but there wasn't enough room for it as is.. so I have to bend the tabs so the wiring would angle down. Everything has worked perfect since... I got Ice and no leaks! woo hoo!

I used a screwdriver to remove, then replace, the screw that holds in the valve. I used pliers to pull the refer water line out of the old valve. I just used my hands to reinstall the line. I used and open box wrench to remove and reattach the main water line. Nothing blocked access to the valve and it was very easy to remove the old one and install the new one.

Followed the directions on the web site and did everything that was instructed to do and had no problems with installing the new dual water Valve. Has been in now for a week and no more over filling or freezing water in the storage box. Lots of clean ice, now!

After turning the water off, I removed the two screws holding the cover on the lower back of the freezer. I disconnected the copper water supply line from the valve. I then removed the screw holding the valve in place and removed it from the freezer. I removed the two wires from the valve and placed them on the new valve (after inserting the clip inserts to match the new size tabs).I pulled the two plastic water lines out of the valve and inserted them into the new valve. I put the new valve in place and replaced the screw. Total time less than 15 minutes. Much easier to fix, than to identify the problem. The collective wisdom of the internet strikes again! Thanks to all.