TPS24PIBABS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

My dog ate the plastic portion of the new part before it was installed.

remove old valve, water lines and electrical wires and replace water lines, duel water valve and wires

replace entire inlet valve (block)

Un-plugged the refrigerator, removed the existing water valve and pressure fittings; replaced the old tubing and reconnected the faston connectors using the two adaptors provided.

Took about 30 minutes.

Works fine although the sound of filling the ice-tray is a bit lauder that the previous valve.

Placed the glass shelf in the new shelf frame and the frame in the refrigerator.

I was unable to positively identify the replacement shelf frame on the GE web site. Part Select's exploded view made it a piece of cake!

Ordered this part after i replaced the plastic tubes on the back as the problem persisted. loosen the nuts holding the water inlet lines, remove the cover to the valve. remove the valve and the water inlet line to the the valve. Disconnect the 2 outlets from the valve. 1 outlet to icemaker and other outlet to water cooler (bigger). Connect water inlet and 2 outlets to the new valve, test the water lines. Found the inlet is leaking, removed it and added teflon tape and reconnect it. All is done. Then I left the freezer door open for 3 hours to melt the ice on the wrong places and all is well.

Fairly easy I pull the fridge foward and remove the backing board and notice the fan wasn't working, so I remove the fan and bench tested and it was burned then I clean the condenser with compress air if you don't have air then a vacuum cleaner works then once the part arrived I install it the now if working very good

1. Turn water supply off at wall. Unpulg referigerator. Remove all cardboard backing covering valve. Vaccum under ref. Unscrew water line where it attaches to valve on ref. (Reuse this later) unplug 4 electrical prongs. Mark with colored pen if not already color coded, so can put back correctly. Pull old ice maker and ref water supply out of valve if it does not screw in with nut. Cut very short peice off end of ref water lines. Slide new locks on water supply lines and push into water valve very hard to lock. Cant get them wrong as they are different sizes. Plug in electrical connectors same as you unpluged them. Connect water line to valve from wall. Turn water on and check for leaks. If none. Replace all screws on backing. Recheck for water on floor. If none congrads, just saved yourself about $120. 00 Labor. Take 2 asprin, drink a six pack and go to bed.

I noticed water leaking from the bottom right rear of the fridge. I figured it was from the ice maker feed as I don't have the ice water feature on this GE profile. I shut the water supply off, ordered the part and received it in a few days. The defective part was easily accessible after I removed the cardboard cover. I removed the copper feed and unscrewed the old valve with a nutdriver. The new part fit perfectly, and even though there were instructions in the part to use the old bracket. the plastic water feed fit into the ice maker compression fitting with ease. I ran into a problem when I re-installed the copper compression fitting on the new valve,as I could not stop a leak from the top of the compression fitting. When my plumber originally installed the copper line he used enough pressure to deform the compression sleeve that slips over the copper tube. I had a couple of them in my "parts" drawer, so I took my tubing cutter and took 1/2" of the end of the copper supply line; slipped the new sleeve and re-installed the compression nut over the valve....fit perfectly. Turned on the water supply; no leaks. Checked the icemaker about 4 hours later and it made the first tray of ice. If I didn't have to deal with the water supply leak at the fitting, the job would have been finished in 30 to 45 minutes.

Removal of old part was very easy. However, there had been some new changes to the new valve. The prongs on the dispenser solenoid are narrower than the original so the push on connector would not grasp the prong and kept falling off. I finally was able to squash and crimp the pushon enough to make it stay on . Also, the waterline connection was changed from a compression nut with flared tubing end to a much easier cap nut and copper compression ring. This required a trip to the hardware store to buy the cap nut and ring and also required cutting the tubing above the flared end to remove the compression nut. Once this was done, the reassembly was simple. The required time would have been about 20 minutes if I didn't have to go to the store and redisassemble three times to reconnect the water supply solenoid push on..

Replaced valve with only one difficulty - the electrical spade connectors were different size. Did not come with adapters, as described on the web site.

I removed the old valve assembly from the refrigerator's cabinet with a nut driver. I then pushed the lines for the water dispenser and ice maker into the valve and attached it to the cabinet. After connecting the water supply we had ice and water.

Shut off water & elect to refg. moved refg out from wall. Removed back cover. disconnected water & electric connections. Removed old valve and installed new one . Plastic tube fit in same place elect pins (4) snapped in place. Used teflon tape when connecting copper plumbing to stop leaks. Also cut old tubing & replaced copper 1/4" compression ring. Note I ordered part before noon on thursday, part arrived fri AM 9:00 FedEx.reg service. cleaned up mess picked up tools. Refg worked like new. saved money on service call. Thanks

Replaced Valve - really easy repair -- longest part was getting fiber cover plate off and on back of refrigerator

I pulled the refrigerator away from the wall. I turned the water supply valve off. With a nut driver I removed the screws holding the flexible cover on the back of the refrigerator, and set it aside. Next, again using the nut driver, I removed the screw form the clamp holding the copper tubing to the back of the refrigerator. Using a 1/2 inch open end wrench I took the copper tube off the water valve. Then, using the nut driver I removed the screw which holds the valve in place. I then unplugged the electrical wiring,and removed the two flexible tubes. I pulled the compression nuts from the flexible tubes, and inserted them into the new water valve, re-connecter the electrical wiring plugs, mounted the new valve to the refrigerator, reconnected the copper tubing to the new valve, turned the water supply valve on to be sure there was no leaks, secured the copper tubing to the refrigerator replaced the flexible cover, and then moved the refrigerator back in it's original position.