TFF20DCM General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
Jump to:
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- James A from KETCHUM, ID
- Parts Used:
- WR49X5124
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
plastic water line through bottom door hinge assembly
This problem applies only to replacement of the bottom hinge assembly on the FREEZER door. Repair of the other side, the non-freezer door, is quick and easy.
The problem with the freezer door hinge assembly is that a plastic tube goes right through the bottom hinge. It appears that this tube supplies water to the ice maker.
On our fridge, the door could not be removed to do the hinge replacement without disconnecting the plastic tube. There was a junction in the tube right next to the hinge, but the junction would not give, meaning it could not be pulled apart. It appeared to be permanently joined.
So we had to cut the tube with shears. Then the door could be lifted off and the hinge was replaced.
Then the question was how to reconnect the tube. We finally did this by trimming off the remainder of the junction and rejoining the two tube ends by taping them over with lots of duct tape after the tube had been threaded through the hinge. Fortunately there was enough slack in the tube to allow this trimming and taping.
With that done, the door was lifted back onto the hinge, the top hinge insert was replaced, and the job was done.
The duct tape union in the tube so far has not leaked and we don't think it will.
The problem with the freezer door hinge assembly is that a plastic tube goes right through the bottom hinge. It appears that this tube supplies water to the ice maker.
On our fridge, the door could not be removed to do the hinge replacement without disconnecting the plastic tube. There was a junction in the tube right next to the hinge, but the junction would not give, meaning it could not be pulled apart. It appeared to be permanently joined.
So we had to cut the tube with shears. Then the door could be lifted off and the hinge was replaced.
Then the question was how to reconnect the tube. We finally did this by trimming off the remainder of the junction and rejoining the two tube ends by taping them over with lots of duct tape after the tube had been threaded through the hinge. Fortunately there was enough slack in the tube to allow this trimming and taping.
With that done, the door was lifted back onto the hinge, the top hinge insert was replaced, and the job was done.
The duct tape union in the tube so far has not leaked and we don't think it will.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Richard from haverford, PA
- Parts Used:
- WR2X4901
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Refrigerator door was not closing fully and was about 1/2 lowere than it should have been
This was a 15 year old great working GE regrigerator. Refrigerator was not cooling properly, though the freezer worked great. Using flashlight, examined cam riser which was clearly broken. YOU MUST ORDER TWO GASKETS AS BOTH WILL BE WORN. After removing all food from the door, taped plastic sheet over the open space to keep food somewhat cool Removed top hinge cover and screws on top of door and lifted door out of bottom bracket placing it flat on kitchen island. Unscrewed hinge elements including old broken cam and shims form the bottom of the door and fit in the new cam. Unfortunately one of the shims was broken, so I used a thin plastic black washer from the hardware store which was big enough to fit over the pin on the bottom of the refrigerator itself. Screwed all the parts back together. Be VERY careful to note how you removed them in the first place...mabe take a digital foto or two. This was kind of tricky to remember. Then used a hammer and chisel to break off the rivit holding the bottom hinge elements on the refrigerator. Sawing with jigsaw didn't work that well. The rivit came right off. Then used a flat head screw, lock washer and nut instead of a reivit and attached the new second cam riser. You are now done with the new parts. Simply reattached the door and it closed like new. Had a simultaneoius problem with a faulty defrost heater in the freezer which also had to be replaced and which was really easy to do. About an hour max. This was the real cause of the refrigerator not cooling properly. But that's another story.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
door would not stay shut
followed video and completed steps. The video sent with parts e-mail was spot on good job
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Louis from Anchorage, AK
- Parts Used:
- WR2X4901
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
door didn't close by itselt
Placed blocks under the refrigerator door to take weight off the lower hinge pin. Removed the hinge by removing two screws into the refrigerator and two screws into the bottom of the door itself. This allows the hinge to be removed so the old nylon "closer" pieces can be removed (the one attached to the refrigerator has a rivet holding it in place so that has to be drilled out and replaced with a 3/16 inch bolt and nut). After re-attaching the nylon "closer" to the refrigerator side of the hinge and placing all the shims back in place, I re-attached the hinge to the door first, then the half hinge to the refrigerator. Had to line up the holes, tighten the screws and presto, the door closes like it was new again.
The freezer door side is more difficult as there are wires and a water line to work around.
The freezer door side is more difficult as there are wires and a water line to work around.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Jennifer from Holt, MO
- Parts Used:
- WR2X4901
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Door would not stay closed
BUY TWO CAMS! Just like the others, both of the cams were shot. My husband & I did this ourselves & have NEVER attempted appliance repair before.
We propped the door up high enough to access the bottom hinge piece on the fridge & removed using socket. Removed the cover from the top hinge. Slid door down off the top hinge in able to get to the cam on bottom of door. Replaced this cam 1st in order to get door back on while worked to get the old cam off hinge. As others posted, this is rivited on. Used grinder to grind off rivit & hammer & punch to punch out. Attached new cam with bolt & nut found in our tin of leftovers. Inserted hinge into door & reattached to fridge. DONE! Not hard at all & didn't even argue the whole time.
We propped the door up high enough to access the bottom hinge piece on the fridge & removed using socket. Removed the cover from the top hinge. Slid door down off the top hinge in able to get to the cam on bottom of door. Replaced this cam 1st in order to get door back on while worked to get the old cam off hinge. As others posted, this is rivited on. Used grinder to grind off rivit & hammer & punch to punch out. Attached new cam with bolt & nut found in our tin of leftovers. Inserted hinge into door & reattached to fridge. DONE! Not hard at all & didn't even argue the whole time.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- MANUEL from PHILADELPHIA, PA
- Parts Used:
- WR2X4901
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Refrigerator door was not closing by itself
Please note that I did this repair 2 times before and it was very easy, it took me longer to get the stuff out of the refrigerator door.
But this time the existing upper and lower cams broke, and the lower part of the door was making contact with the screw that holds the lower cam to the lower support bracket damaging the head of the screw.
Now I could not use a screw driver and I had to use a wrench and a vise grip to hold the round screw head (not easy), and then replace the screw and nut.
I had to insert 2 flat washers under the lower support, to separate the door an additional 1/32 from the ref. base to accomodate the fact that the door gasket had lost its regular shape in the lower part of the door (I discover this when I dismounted the door).
Then I removed the damaged cams, replace them with the new ones and now it is working ok.
Manny
But this time the existing upper and lower cams broke, and the lower part of the door was making contact with the screw that holds the lower cam to the lower support bracket damaging the head of the screw.
Now I could not use a screw driver and I had to use a wrench and a vise grip to hold the round screw head (not easy), and then replace the screw and nut.
I had to insert 2 flat washers under the lower support, to separate the door an additional 1/32 from the ref. base to accomodate the fact that the door gasket had lost its regular shape in the lower part of the door (I discover this when I dismounted the door).
Then I removed the damaged cams, replace them with the new ones and now it is working ok.
Manny
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Tom from Ammon, ID
- Parts Used:
- WR2X4901
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Both door Cams broken even though I could see only one.
I learned from previous descriptions. Most important is there are two cams so order two. Second is that the door can be blocked from the bottom so the door doesn't have to be unloaded if you are careful. Remove the vent cover. Raise the door as high as possible while closed then block it from dropping down. I used wooden blocks. Remove the lower hinge and bracket on the bottom of the door. Put everythng back and you're back in business. A kit with both cams, spacers, and screws with diagram would have been nice to have.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Stephanie from KEARNY, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Light was flicking
It was way to ez to install only a couple of minutes that's it
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- John from Cumberland, MD
- Parts Used:
- WR60X114
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Fan blade broken
Removed the broken fan blade (just pulled off) and replaced with part purchased PartSelect. Very easy repair, no tools required.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Ted from SANDWICH, IL
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Broken light switch
took a little more effort than the video show to remove old module and replace new. Works fine now.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Clinton from Melbourne, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR2X4901
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench set
not closing. part broke.
Watched the video very good. Thank You
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Gary from Sandy Hook, CT
- Parts Used:
- WR2X4901
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Door does not shut on its own
I used a block of wood to hold up the door. Then unbolted the lower hinge from the fridge. That is when I found out that it was fine and it was the upper half of the hinge that was broken (worn).
So I unbolted the upper hinge (mounted on the bottom of door) It uses the same part. So I installed the part on the upper half of the hinge.
I wish somebody would have told me that you need 2 of these for each hinge. The bottom one was in good shape, lucky for me.
So I unbolted the upper hinge (mounted on the bottom of door) It uses the same part. So I installed the part on the upper half of the hinge.
I wish somebody would have told me that you need 2 of these for each hinge. The bottom one was in good shape, lucky for me.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Thomas from Las Vegas, NV
- Parts Used:
- WR2X4901
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
door wouldn't close all the way.
There was what seemed to be a half chewed up washer under the refig. door. The door wasn't closing all the way. DING!! Something was wrong!!
I looked up your schematic for the refrig door and decided what piece might have broken. It was a good guess and the part showed up a few days later.
I wedged up the refrig door to take the tension off the lower bracket. Then, just took off the bracket and replaced the broken door closing cam.
I looked up your schematic for the refrig door and decided what piece might have broken. It was a good guess and the part showed up a few days later.
I wedged up the refrig door to take the tension off the lower bracket. Then, just took off the bracket and replaced the broken door closing cam.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Don from Eugene, OR
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The door activated light switch was missing.
Pulled the two wires out from the access hole in the lower part of the refrigerator. Put them in the spade connectors on the new switch, and pushed the switch into place.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!