TFF20DCM General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- James from Glendale Heights, IL
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Light would stay on when door closed
Extremely easy repair, the hardest part was getting the old switch out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs in and it came right out.
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- Customer:
- donald from MALONE, WI
- Parts Used:
- WR72X209
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Left side bottom drawer rail (plastic) had broken causing the draw to remain open
I glued the old rail back together twice prior to resorting to ordering the the replacement drawer rail from parts direct. Don't bother glueing the old parts, just buy a new one. Keep the screws from the old drawer rail as new screws are not shipped with the replacement rail. Only took 10 minutes to replace the rail needing only a phillips screwdriver. Good as new.
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- Customer:
- Loren from EL PASO, TX
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
40 year old refrigerator brittle light switch fell apart
with a jewelry screwdriver I pried the lock tab in and pulled switch down carefully, the hardest part was that the power wire connector was stuck on good but the pliers and the jewelry screwdriver was its match for a bout 5 minute for one connection a simple pull off prong connection. After the wire connected back to switch it popped back in SNAPP
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- Customer:
- Lauraine from Rocky Hill, CT
- Parts Used:
- WR60X114
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
family member melted fan with hair dryer
Unplugged fridge.Removed 2 screws holding a panel. After panel removed took off old fan and inserted new. Quite simple.
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- Customer:
- Joe from SUGAR LAND, TX
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Light Switch Not Working - Needed New Switch
Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.
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- Customer:
- Floyd from Pahrump, NV
- Parts Used:
- WR72X209
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
slide rail broke on for crisp drawer
I removed the top shelf and removed broken rail and instaled new rail only two screws .
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- Customer:
- Gary from EAST JORDAN, MI
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Light went out in refrigerator
Pop out switch, pull wires, attach wires to new switch and pop back in. Easy smeasy!
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- Customer:
- Deborah from BRADLEYVILLE, MO
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Broken light switch
This was so easy I think it took me 2 minutes. I am not very mechanically inclined but that didn't matter! Works perfect thank you!
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- Customer:
- Cynthia from Hillsboro, TN
- Parts Used:
- WR17X10060
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Temperature controller freezing vegetables.
I aligned the back of the controller with the slot in the icebox and it popped right back on. No more frozen vegetables.
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- Customer:
- CHARLES from PENSACOLA, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR72X209
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Broken left side slide rail
- Remove drawer and cover being supported by this slide. - Remove front and back screws with the screw driver. - Replace the above removed screws using the new slide. - Replace drawer and cover. DONE
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- Customer:
- John from Salinas, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR2X4901
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Socket set
Door closing cam split in two and door would not automatically close anymore.
This one is a no brainer… One Phillips screw on top to pull top door hinge trim. Two nuts and the top hinge is free. Then pull the door… it helps if you unload all the crap in the door bins. Remove the remnants of the door cam and that leaves a pop rivet. Put some vise grips on the head and use a hacksaw to remove the lower part of the rivet. Then pop-rivet the new door cam in place. If you don’t own a pop-rivet tool, I guess you could use a 10/32” screw and nylock. Plop the door back on and you’re done. Took all of about 15 minutes.
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Rails broked, lower veggie basket sitting on bottom
Remove broken rail by unscrewing two phillips screws
Discard broken rail
Hold replacement rail in place with left hand, tighten phillips screws with standard phillips screwdriver.
Wash scratch marks off bottom of fridge caused by drawer sliding on bottom of appliance
Slide veggie drawer into place, smile at wife, receive praise.
Discard broken rail
Hold replacement rail in place with left hand, tighten phillips screws with standard phillips screwdriver.
Wash scratch marks off bottom of fridge caused by drawer sliding on bottom of appliance
Slide veggie drawer into place, smile at wife, receive praise.
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- Customer:
- Les from San Francisco, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR2X4901
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Door wouldn't close tight automatically.
1. Put all perishable food into ice chest. Empty door shelves.
2. Remove top hinge cover with Philips screwdriver.
3. Supporting door, remove top hinge attached by two hex screws.
4. Lift door off bottom hinge.
5. On bottom of door, unscrew the hex screw holding the broken plastic cam.
6. Loosen the second hex screw enough to free the broken cam.
7. Replace the cam and tighten the hex screws making sure the opening of the cam lines up with the hole under the door.
8. Snap off plastic grill at the bottom of the refrigerator.
9. Remove bottom of the two hex screws holding the bottom hinge tot eh refrigerator body.
10. Loosen the second screw enought to rotate the hinge upsidedown. Tighten the screw again.
11. Now the rivet bottom is exposed so as to facilitate drilling it out to remove the broken cam.
12. Loosen the hex screw again and turn it back rightside up. Reinstall the bottom screw and tighten both of them.
13. Using an appropriate size bolt, lockwasher and nut, install other new cam.
14. Reinstall door reversing steps 1 to 4.
15. Don't forget to return the food to the 'fridge, by the way!
2. Remove top hinge cover with Philips screwdriver.
3. Supporting door, remove top hinge attached by two hex screws.
4. Lift door off bottom hinge.
5. On bottom of door, unscrew the hex screw holding the broken plastic cam.
6. Loosen the second hex screw enough to free the broken cam.
7. Replace the cam and tighten the hex screws making sure the opening of the cam lines up with the hole under the door.
8. Snap off plastic grill at the bottom of the refrigerator.
9. Remove bottom of the two hex screws holding the bottom hinge tot eh refrigerator body.
10. Loosen the second screw enought to rotate the hinge upsidedown. Tighten the screw again.
11. Now the rivet bottom is exposed so as to facilitate drilling it out to remove the broken cam.
12. Loosen the hex screw again and turn it back rightside up. Reinstall the bottom screw and tighten both of them.
13. Using an appropriate size bolt, lockwasher and nut, install other new cam.
14. Reinstall door reversing steps 1 to 4.
15. Don't forget to return the food to the 'fridge, by the way!
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- Customer:
- Edward from E LONGMEADOW, MA
- Parts Used:
- WD2X5166
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
water leaking from under dishwasher
Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.
Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.
A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.
Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.
A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.
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- Customer:
- Kenneth from Virginia Beach, VA
- Parts Used:
- WR2X4901
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
Refirigerator door would not close all the way on its own.
The repair went well could have completed the job in 20 minutes if I had a selection of small nuts and bolts to replace the rivet that had to be drilled out. Also buy 2 of the door closing cams Part # PS297995 one goes on the bottom hinge of the refrigerator door the other on the bottom of the refrigerator.
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