JD968SK2SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Turned of the electric at the circuit breaker. Removed the cable clamps for the electric feed cable to enable free movement of cooktop. Lifted cooktop from the counter and propped up on counter ledge. Removed control knobs. Removed perimeter screws, 8 phillips, from around the edge of the cook top surface where it attaches to the sheet metal housing and lifted glass top off. Removed the failed burner and disconnected the four electrical leads. Removed the mounting tabs from the old burner and installed them on the new burner. Attached the electrical leads to the new burner and tightened with pliers. Reattached glass top and knobs, reinstalled in counter, clamped the electrical cable, flipped the breaker and tested. All good.

Followed GE repair video

Removed old switch, put metal jumper from old switch to new one and connected wires to the new one . Reinstalled. Works great.

Turned power off to oven
Unscrewed broiler nuts (total of 4)
Pulled Broiler out from back of stove
Disconnected wires
Reconnected wire
Remounted broiler and replaced bolts
Turned power back on

Turn off the power to the oven. (There should be a circuit breaker in the main power panel dedicated to just the oven) (the oven should be cool to the touch).
Open and remove the door by pulling it up and off the hinges (this is best accomplished with a helper).
Remove the racks (wire shelves).
Remove the two 1/4" mounting screws that secure the heating element to the back and the two screws that secure the element to the top of the oven..
Gently pull the wires out and disconnect them from the heating element.
Now reverse the process.
Connect the wires to the new heating element in the same fashion as they came off.
Push the wires and heating element back in place and secure with the four screws.
Replace the wire racks (shelves).
Replace the door (again, this is best accomplished with a helper).
Turn the power back on.
Run a test of the broiler to make sure the repair was completed properly.
voila!

There are 18 sheetmetal screws not 8
The GE SREWS HAVE AN INTEGRATED WASHER which causes the philips head to STRIP these needed to be drilled out!!!
The glass top was GLUED to the sheetmetal box and did not come off without a fight

Turn the glass enclosure counterclockwise to expose bulb.Turn the power off at circuit breaker panel.Handle the bulb carefully with paper towel covering the bulb.Push the bulb in socket.replace glass enclosure,turn power back on.

Replaced it

I got someone to look at the stove. They told me what I needed. I looked all over the Internet and couldn't find the part. One guy told me just to buy a new stove top because mine was an antique. It still looked good and two burners were still working. I didn't give up. I found the part on partselect bsite and was thrilled. It shipped fast and was exactly the right part. Now my stove works like new.

I was attempting to replace the broiler element on the oven, but I discovered that the wiring may be the actual problem. I suggest before you order parts for a broiler repair, that you test the wires to ensure that you have continuity. I will have to trace the wires back to the source (the other element works fine) and see if I can find the problem with the current. I will keep the broiler element I ordered until I can confirm that the old element works.

Turned off the circuit breaker. Removed 5 screws. Unplugged the heating element and then plugged in the new one and replaced the 5 screws. Very simple.

plug in thermistor when needed

turned oven off, pulled oven out from wall, removed back of oven, unscrewed sensor from oven replaced with new sensor, put back on, turned power to oven on, tried oven at 425, my temp. gage and the oven temp matched. a very easy fix.

Turned off power to range, slid range out from counter, removed convection fan cover, removed convection fan blade, removed back of range panel over convection motor, removed motor, put in new motor, put range panel back on, put new fan blade on front of motor, replaced fan cover, turned power on. No more clunking noise from motor.

The actual repair was relatively easy but access to the area in the oven made it a little difficult. Just unscrew 5 screws with a nut driver, unplug the old element, plug in the new element and reinstall the 5 screws. The only thing that made this repair difficult was being able to reach the connectors where you plug in the new element. They are loose wire connectors that don't reach very far out of the element receptacle. It was difficult to hold the end of the connector and plug in the new element because the oven door is in your way. Maybe it is easier if you take the oven door off first?