JD968SK2SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Circuit breaker off. Watched You Tube video to easily remove and set aside oven door, and shelves, unscrewed back wall cover over convection heating element, and slid out cover over floor heating element. Used ratchet to easily disconnect both old heating elements & pull from rear wall, holding onto two clip electrical connectors while gently pulling out plenty of slack as wires fed through insulation material. Concern of "losing" wires back into oven wall not truly a problem if careful. Both sets of connectors pulled off, easily and then slid onto replacement elements without trouble. Circular convection element screwed back into place and cover replaced. Replacement floor element was similar, but not identical, to original. Wires connected fine, but base plate and two screw holes to attach to rear wall were of different size. It rests underneath oven lower cover on its own feet, so really didn't require support. Being DIY obsessive, I nonetheless used its base plate as template to drill two new holes in oven back, secured with old screws. Replaced cover, shelves, door, and woking like new!

Not only did we (my wife did help) replace the dual element but afterwards we realized the control switch was not functioning properly and so that was replaced as well, and now our appliance works as intended. Also the instructions, are helpful as well. We used care not to force or over tighten anything and with two sets of eyes and the extra hands everything went much better. Anything that was removed was noted as to it's location and replaced .

Removed stove top from counter, removed glass top by removing 10 phillps screws, removed control bracked, unplugged connectors(wires) on old control and plugged into the correct position on the new control, replace control on the bracket then reinstalled the stove top and placed the stove top back into counter.

RE: 2 yr. old GE double wall oven with convection option in upper oven, non-convection in lower oven: baked goods were not browning, were undercooked or burned. Tested both ovens on regular bake setting using 2 oven thermometers. Set ovens for 350. Although after 10 min both ovens beeped "ready", the oven thermometers actually read 200 - then would swing up as high as 500 and as low as 200 during the 20 min test period. Decided to first replace top oven sensor only, just in case it really was a more expensive control panel problem. It was a bit awkward to reach back there with the oven door in the way, but I have long arms! Aimed my flashlight, removed nuts with a socket wrench, pulled out the sensor, popped the clip and the old sensor easily separated from its connection. Snapped on the new sensor, pushed it back in and reset the nuts. Easy. Set the oven for 350 and tested again with 2 oven thermometers for 45 min. Voila! The oven thermometers read exactly 350 when the oven beeped "ready" and it stayed at 350 throughout the entire 45 min retest period with only a 3 degree variation both up and down. What a great improvement! Immediately went online to Parts Select and ordered another sensor for the bottom oven which was having the same problem. Fixed both ovens all for under $30 - and just in time for Christmas cookies! Don't want to know what the repair guy would have charged.......Merry Christmas!

This went pretty smoothly. Watch the video and just follow along step-by-step and it goes well. It would have only taken about 30-45 minutes (even being careful and slow) but I ended up placing the glass twice (be very careful and triple check that all the insulation gets poked under the housing and none is sticking out). The first time I had a small piece sticking out. (Use gloves for this part so your hands don't itch). The second time I needed to redo part of it is I forgot one of the spacers on the door handle and had to get that in there so the handle worked properly. I also took the time to clean the oven while the door was off so that took some time. Total I probably had 1.5-2 hours into this project but at least half of that was me cleaning and being fussy. This is an easy repair. I'm not a confident repair person and this wasn't difficult. It was a little time consuming but well worth the cost vs calling a repair person or buying a new appliance. You do need to have a specialty star head on a screwdriver but my simple tool kit had all the tools I needed. The oven has been working great since the repair.

Really easy. Part came in rapid time and was the right part. Went on web and got instructions with video how to install.

Remove the top back panel to expose the switch. Remove the switch knob & mounting bezel and then unscrew the 2 mounting screws from the front. Replace the wires one by one and follow the enclosed directions in the event that this is an upgrade for an older switch. Remount the switch from the front and replace the back panel.

First of all, there are FOUR panes of glass on the oven door and two different sizes. Make sure you're ordering the right pane. We initially got the wrong one and had to return/reorder.

Took door off hinges and set on table. Removed almost all screws. Two at the top are very long and almost spring loaded -- this was helpful when putting it back together.
When removing the layers, keep track of what/where screws are placed. Some are star-hole-head, some are hex-head (socket). Work slowly and carefully so as not to break additional panes of glass. Leave plenty of room in your workspace to set items aside while you get to the innermost part of the door.

For this part #, it's deep in the door layers and surrounded by fiberglass. Wear gloves so you're not itchy later. This part acts as a double-pane with a narrow aluminum frame around the two pieces of glass. Be careful not to bend the frame when removing the broken piece. One corner of the frame also has a hook-n-hole closure. Take care to not bend the hook too much.

We wiped all the glass pieces off to get all fingerprints, smudges, and baked-on foods removed. Then we put the pieces/parts back -- a lot like a puzzle. Had the oven back up and running with no problems. It may take two people to get the door back on the hinges just because of the weight and awkward position they need to clamp back together.

The oven lamp shattered while cleaning. Easy to replace by hand.

This item worked as described. I paid more for this 'oem' probe than the generic 1 because i didn't want to chance it not working as others have reported.
- works great. tested it....snaps in, reads correctly, snaps out.

Removed back panel, change out sensor

took out old gasket and inserted new

First, disconnect electrical power to the stove by turning the main fuse to the off position. Confirm that there is no electrical power in the stove. The ceramic top is held by 10 screws that are closest to the ceramic surface. Other screws hold other parts of the stove and not need to be touched when opening the stove. Once the ceramic surface is off there is access to the burners and the various lights and switches. It is important to determine whether it is the burner that is defective or the switch. Inasmuch as the switch has many moving parts, the switch is more likely to be the defective part. Check the switch by gaining access to the switch connections. There is a metal frame held by two screws on each side in the outside of the stove (same area where the initial 10 screws were removed to separate the ceramic surface). Remove these screws and flip the switch assembly so all the wires and cables are accessible. I checked the switch with a continuity tester and by trial and error determined that there were two connections that in all the remainder three switches had continuity when the switch was in the on position while the suspect switch did not. Replaced the suspect switch by pulling the wires and replacing them in identical positions in the new switch (a smartphone camera became very useful to remind me were exactly each cable's connection was). Restore power by turning the fuse to the on position. Check that the burner lights up. If not, change the burner as well. Same simple procedure of disconnecting and connecting cables to the burner). Make sure to disconnect power before working on the burner. Replace the screws that hold the switch assembly. Replace the ceramic top. Replace the screws. Set stove back in its hole. Reset fuse. Total time: 35 mins. Total cost: Approx $25.00 (switch + delivery). Quoted repair by local appliance repair service: $487.50. No contest. Next project is to fix a leaky water dispenser in the refrigerator.

Threw the old one out - plugged the new one in. Steak came out just as ordered - medium rare.

Unbolted temperature sensor from back of oven. Disconnect cable connector. Replaced and reconnected new sensor and bolted back in place. Haven’t had to replace bake element yet, but it’s a major job being this GE Profile oven has the bake element hidden. That’s a new one on me.