YWET4027HW2 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Unplugged dryer from wall. Removed screws from the back using the socket set. Removed thermostat screws and disconnected wires(one at a time) while replacing new thermostat. Replaced second thermal and tightened screws. Replaced back panel on dryer. Plugged in, turned on and dryer was repaired..

Watched video on locating and testing parts (did help that I had a digital meter w/cont-tone ) removed and cleaned out dryer cabinet tested heating element-was ok went to thermal cutoff (tested bad ) ordered kit from part select parts arrived within two days (fantastic ) replaced parts in thermal cut off kit . Replaced dryer back also and important -removed dryer vent and cleaned out pipe -replaced vent pipe turned on the power tried dryer works like new again your easy to follow instructions made this a very easy job thanks people ! You saved me a great deal of aggravation and more important money

MAKE SURE THE POWER TO THE DRYER IS DISCONNECTED. On the Dryer I have there is a pannel below the door. To remove the pannel use a small flat screw driver and push in on the two clips at the top to release the pannel. In the bottom is the Heating Element and housing. The housing is held in place with a bracket and two screws. Remove the bracket and turn the housing counter clockwise 1/4 turn to remove. Check the Heating Element to make sure its not broken. Replace the thermostat and fuse in the side of the housing. Reistall the housing oppisite of removal.

More time troubleshooting than repairing. Used online help for narrowing down problem to the thermal cut-off unit. Had to remove front lower cover, remove wire sets from heating element,remove element from dryer. Then it was a simple swap out of the two relays/thermistors, and put it all back together again. Unit worked as designed after repair.

As described by the video, I removed the front cover after I unpluged the electric plug. Pulled all the wires from the cutoff-TML. Removed the cover of the heating element(one screw). Removed the heating element housing(2 screws). Removed the cutoff-TML from the heating element housing(2 parts, 4 screws). Replaced the cutoff-TML(3screws). Returning the heating element housing to its place was somewhat difficult, it took few tries.Then reattached the wires on the new cutoff-TML.Returned the cover of the heating element. I pluged the electrical plug. Turned the dryer on high for 3 minuts and watched the heating element getting hot. At last I returend the front cover.

I followed the video for this part. Opened the front panel. Unscrewed the brace on the bottom. Turned the element housing and pulled out after disconnecting the wire leads. Unscrewed the original parts. Screwed in the new parts. Reversed the sequence and ran a load of towels. It was easy and fixed the problem.

I studied the instruction on the partselect.com site, followed the directions to discover the problem, ordered the part from them, installed it as in instructed in their video, and it has worked perfectly for the past 5 days after doing a mountain of laundry. I took the opportunity to clean my dryer interior from all lint and dust as well as the vent. I suspect lint is what caused the problem after I washed some new flannel sheets which clogged my vent cover outside. I cannot say enough good things about the partselect videos. I'm ready to tackle a few other appliances. One note about the Kenmore Elite Dryer 110 model: Do not take the back off. I removed the screws which caused the steel plate to drop a little at the back of the dryer. Then I could not put the screws back in. To fix this, I removed the screws from the control panel and pushed it forward to reach just inside the top back of the dryer...pulled up the steel plate and got the screws to line up and put it all back together. The only other tricky part was getting the heater unit back in to the slot at the back of the dryer. I finally used a little brute force to push it in far enough, then turned it a quarter clockwise to the correct position. My husband was impressed that I tackled this project by myself. Hunting season was on in MN. THANK YOU PartSelect.

Searched for answers on what to do when my dryer wouldn't heat and came across PartSelect videos on how to troubleshoot and repair. So I followed the detailed videos step for step and turned out to be a very simple task to identify that the thermal cut off had blown. I ordered the kit and very fast delivery had the parts in my hand in two days. Following the repair video, and a double check of the wiring diagram, had me up and running again for less than $40. I don't see a need for going anywhere else for appliance parts in my future.

Checked the element and switches. Found thermal cut off switch open. Order new switch. Installed switch and vacuumed cabinet. Start and test.

take back from dryer all parts right in front of face replace part and try dryer and it work just like it said

First I removed the front kick panel to observe the drum and blower to see that both were running. I watched the element inside the heat can as well, and saw that it wasn't receiving a current (no heat, wasn't glowing). First thing I did was test the element itself by removing it from the heat can, and with a multimeter set to its lowest ohm setting, touched both terminal ends to check for continuity. The MM read 0 so it was fine. I then removed and tested the thermal fuse and the relay on the blower in the same fashion, removing them and checking them for continuity. They were fine also. I then moved on to the thermal limiter and relay on the heat can, and that's where I found a broken current. After installing both parts on the heat can, I observed the element receiving a current and the problem was fixed. I've done several loads since then and it is drying better than ever. Problem solved, for now.

My dryer, a Whirlpool GEQ9800PW1, suddenly stopped producing heat. I did not have a multimeter so I rolled the dice on changing the fuse since that's a common problem. Well, it wasn't my problem. I borrowed a multimeter and learned how to use it from YouTube videos. I tested the thermostat, the heating element, another thermostat. They weren't the problem. I finally tested the thermal cutoff and it was dead. I ordered the part from Part Select, it arrived within 3 days, and is working perfectly. As for the installation process, all of the parts mentioned above are accessed from the front of the dryer, below the dryer door. There are two clips at the TOP of the panel below the dryer door. Use a screwdriver to pop them loose and remove the panel. There are also clips at the bottom of the panel. No need to mess with those. I wasted a lot of time doing that because I didn't realize the relevant clips were at the top of the panel. Once the panel is removed, you need to remove the metal piece that covers the lint trap and blower. It is held in place by three screws and pulls right off. On the right side of the dryer, you will see a hollow, metal tube with the heating element in it. The heating element can be identified easily because it's made up of coils. On the left side of this metal tube containing the heating element, you will see wires that attach to two separate items. The one in the front is the high limit thermostat. Behind that is the thermal cutoff. Only one screw holds the thermal cutoff in place. Remove the screw, detach the two wires attached to it, and simply replace with a new one. The entire metal tube can be removed from the dryer but I personally didn't find it necessary. I was fine with reaching into the dryer to remove/replace the thermal cutoff. The replacement part comes with both the thermal cutoff and a high limit thermostat. I didn't bother replacing the thermostat. This is a fast, easy job when reading the above instructions. My process was trial and error so it took me forever. Hopefully these instructions help others. I considered an aftermarket part but after some research, it's worth the $30 to get a factory part from this site.

Had a lot of trouble getting front panel off. Check You Tube for directions. Checked heating coils and thermostats and found they were OK. Cleaned lint from fan and replaced thermostats although they may not have needed it (thermal cut-off kit). Put panel back and it works. See YouTube to see how to check coil and thermostats. They may check but if something is wrong it is either them or the control board. Thermal Cut-Off Kit is much cheaper.

I removed the front cover. I inspected the heater coil (tested for continuity with a muti-meter). It was good. Checked the thermostat and thermal cut-off and found the cut off bad. Ordered the parts from Parts Select at half the price of the local sources and two days later they were on my doorstep. Problem solved.

My husband changed the part but part select was very helpful. With their free repair help site it made repairing a breeze! We will use parts select again and again. I did order all the parts we might have needed and only needed one. Now I will return the others.