YWET4027HW2 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Checked the element and switches. Found thermal cut off switch open. Order new switch. Installed switch and vacuumed cabinet. Start and test.

after using a meter to determine the thermal cut-off was bad and ordering the part, it only too about ten to fifteen minutes to repair. used a nut driver to remove the bag cover to expose the thermal cut-off. removed the wires and the screws from the parts. screwed the new parts on. replaced the wires. turned the dryer on to make sure it worked (heat came out). replaced the cover. set back in place and it works great

I watched the video and was able to complete the repair with no issues.

Tested old part with ohm meter and found no continuity. Replaced old parts with thermal cut-off kit parts. Dryer heating worked.

We thought it wiras the heating element and we ordered that part from.you but it did not fix the dryer. So we ordered the thermal kit and little less then 15 min. we had it fixed.

got my kit from partselect and in no time i was drying cloths.

remove back,remove both switches,replace

I checked all the thermostats with a OHM meter and found a bad sensor it was pretty simple using U tube as a guide and the parts were here in a day and a half I'm now getting ready to replace the transmission in my GE washer

I removed the front cover. I inspected the heater coil (tested for continuity with a muti-meter). It was good. Checked the thermostat and thermal cut-off and found the cut off bad. Ordered the parts from Parts Select at half the price of the local sources and two days later they were on my doorstep. Problem solved.

First I removed the front kick panel to observe the drum and blower to see that both were running. I watched the element inside the heat can as well, and saw that it wasn't receiving a current (no heat, wasn't glowing). First thing I did was test the element itself by removing it from the heat can, and with a multimeter set to its lowest ohm setting, touched both terminal ends to check for continuity. The MM read 0 so it was fine. I then removed and tested the thermal fuse and the relay on the blower in the same fashion, removing them and checking them for continuity. They were fine also. I then moved on to the thermal limiter and relay on the heat can, and that's where I found a broken current. After installing both parts on the heat can, I observed the element receiving a current and the problem was fixed. I've done several loads since then and it is drying better than ever. Problem solved, for now.

My dryer, a Whirlpool GEQ9800PW1, suddenly stopped producing heat. I did not have a multimeter so I rolled the dice on changing the fuse since that's a common problem. Well, it wasn't my problem. I borrowed a multimeter and learned how to use it from YouTube videos. I tested the thermostat, the heating element, another thermostat. They weren't the problem. I finally tested the thermal cutoff and it was dead. I ordered the part from Part Select, it arrived within 3 days, and is working perfectly. As for the installation process, all of the parts mentioned above are accessed from the front of the dryer, below the dryer door. There are two clips at the TOP of the panel below the dryer door. Use a screwdriver to pop them loose and remove the panel. There are also clips at the bottom of the panel. No need to mess with those. I wasted a lot of time doing that because I didn't realize the relevant clips were at the top of the panel. Once the panel is removed, you need to remove the metal piece that covers the lint trap and blower. It is held in place by three screws and pulls right off. On the right side of the dryer, you will see a hollow, metal tube with the heating element in it. The heating element can be identified easily because it's made up of coils. On the left side of this metal tube containing the heating element, you will see wires that attach to two separate items. The one in the front is the high limit thermostat. Behind that is the thermal cutoff. Only one screw holds the thermal cutoff in place. Remove the screw, detach the two wires attached to it, and simply replace with a new one. The entire metal tube can be removed from the dryer but I personally didn't find it necessary. I was fine with reaching into the dryer to remove/replace the thermal cutoff. The replacement part comes with both the thermal cutoff and a high limit thermostat. I didn't bother replacing the thermostat. This is a fast, easy job when reading the above instructions. My process was trial and error so it took me forever. Hopefully these instructions help others. I considered an aftermarket part but after some research, it's worth the $30 to get a factory part from this site.

My husband changed the part but part select was very helpful. With their free repair help site it made repairing a breeze! We will use parts select again and again. I did order all the parts we might have needed and only needed one. Now I will return the others.

I ordered kit to your recomendation, took machine appart as per your video (Very helpful), put machine back together only to find that that was not the problem.No other recomendation as to what else I should.

Had a lot of trouble getting front panel off. Check You Tube for directions. Checked heating coils and thermostats and found they were OK. Cleaned lint from fan and replaced thermostats although they may not have needed it (thermal cut-off kit). Put panel back and it works. See YouTube to see how to check coil and thermostats. They may check but if something is wrong it is either them or the control board. Thermal Cut-Off Kit is much cheaper.

Unplugged dryer from wall. Removed screws from the back using the socket set. Removed thermostat screws and disconnected wires(one at a time) while replacing new thermostat. Replaced second thermal and tightened screws. Replaced back panel on dryer. Plugged in, turned on and dryer was repaired..