YWET4027HW2 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

The kit came with two fuses. On testing with the ohm meter I found the one that was bad. But of course I put in the two new fuses. It was easy to reach from the front with the lint trap removed. The fuses were easy to disconnect the wires and unscrew and then put the two new fuses in - again screw the fuses in and then connect the wires.

It wound up being the design of the dryer vent out of the house, It went straight up 20 ft. Ran new vent. Works fine now.

Used Instant Repairman to troubleshoot, discovered that no heat was solved by replacing "Thermal Cut-off Kit" and was the problem 55% of the time. Bingo, back in business. The schematic online showed the location of the parts and was fairly easy to replace once all the guards and front panels were removed, 12 screws and 3 spring clips. We are dealing with 220 voltage here, make sure to unplug the dryer and/or shut off the breaker, always double check with curcuit tester or volt meter, stay alive!

Of course, I checked on-line to see how to do this repair first. It was the thermal cut off that needed to be replaced but there was a reason it went out. The vent had come loose behind the dryer. I didnt think that was a big deal, but the dryer sucks all that lint back into the dryer. There was an inch of lint inside the back of the dryer. It got too hot and lucky for me, the thermal cut off shut it down. Otherwise, it would of caught fire. The repair was easy and the dryer works great again. Just be sure you keep the vents connected and clean.

Tested for continuity. The installation video was very good but did not address which wires went to which terminals. Because of polarity, I was uncertain until an appliance repair man told me it didn't matter.

Unplugged dryer removed back replaced part put back on plugged in dryer yippee done!

Used Ohm meter to determine which thermostat was dead, replaced it, and the dryer's working better than it has in years.

Checked heater element with multimeter for continuity. Checked good. Internet how to, suggested thermal switch. checked switch with multermeter, checked bad. Ordered switch kit. replaced same. smooth repair. wife was upset because I fixed the old dryer instead of replacing it. I kept a consideral dollar amount in my pocket by repairing the dryer. Purched the pair in 1989.

I unplugged the dryer,removed all 9 1/4 inch screws to remove back panel,used an amp meter with sound to test various sensors, if the meter beeps the part is good, if it doesn't beep is bad. The upper Thermal sensor was bad,I looked up the part. I ordered the Thermal Cut Off Kit, I ordered it friday the part got here the next day, BEST SITE to order parts.I Removed and replaced the part, put the back panel back on and plugged the dryer back in. Bingo, my dryer works like new.:) Thank you. I paid $24 for the part versus the cost of a new dryer.

removed the heater element housing from the dryer. then on a table removed and replaced the thermal cut-off kit

Replaced the thermal Cut off

looked in the manual, it said if there was no heat but the dryer ran, it could be one of the 2 fuses. Found your site online and read some other people's stories. Ordered the thermal cut-off kit on a Sunday night and it was delivered on the following Tuesday night in a bad storm(fast). It took very little time and effort to replace them, and the dryer (22 yrs old) now works better than it has for a long time. This plan worked way better than I could have imagined.

This is actually a lesson. The reason the dryer was heating initially was a broken coil in the heating element - I replaced that and the high temp switch that attached the the heating element - replaced the service panel, re-connected the vent line, plugged the dryer back into the wall socket started it up it got hot I was happy little pat on the back. I picked my tools and the wife started working on washing laundry again. However the first load would get dry. I unplugged the dryer from the wall, removed teh vent line, removed the service panel tested my wire connects - checked continuity across the Thermal cut out (which was good during my initial troubleshooting) and it showed open. So once again I was hauling clothes to the laundry mat until the part came in. The lesson is I thought a could save a few bucks and not replace that switch - if the heating element goes out just order both switches with the element and save your self time - replace the switches while you have the dryer apart.

Initially I figured the dryer heating element had burned out. The exploded views on PartSelect helped me find other parts in the circuit that could also be bad. I unplugged the unit and removed the back cover. I ohmed out the element. It was around 10 ohms resistance. About right for 5600W at 240V. I checked continuity through the heater circuit and found the top thermal fuse to be open. I replaced the bad part. Put everything back together and put the dryer back into service.

When I decided to attempt repairs myself, I took the back panels off to look for obvious problems such as frayed or burned wires, contacts,fuses etc. When I did not see anything obvious, I started to look for stories/suggestions from other DIYers who might have had the same problem to see what they did. The PartSelect website not only had parts but also had numerous customer comments that where very helpful in my decision to buy the Thermal Cut-Off kit. Quite a few other people had the same problem - drum turns, but clothes don't dry. The kit came almost overnight! It was very simple to swap out the old parts and restore the dryer. It took about 45-60 minutes to take the back panels off, remove the dryer heating unit and check things out. Took about 15-30 minutes to replace thermal cut off parts and put dryer back together. It works great. In fact my wife thinks it is drying better now than it had been.