YWET4027HW2 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Having been out of the business for quite a few years I thought that I was dealing with a direct drive machine. Thinking that it was the motor coupler. I removed the control panel and attempted to pull the cabinet froward. Not so, it had a solid cabinet, so I tilted the machine against the wall and looked under the washer finding the driven Transmission pulley loose on the shaft. The splines on the pulley were pretty well worn but I tightened the nut and it worked okay. But I ordered a pulley and replaced after it's arrival. The motor capacitor also broke it's mount off so I had to rehang it with zip ties and repaired the wires to the Capacitor, (Which BTW had about 22 gauge wire). I found it hard to believe that they would use such small wire.

This is actually a lesson. The reason the dryer was heating initially was a broken coil in the heating element - I replaced that and the high temp switch that attached the the heating element - replaced the service panel, re-connected the vent line, plugged the dryer back into the wall socket started it up it got hot I was happy little pat on the back. I picked my tools and the wife started working on washing laundry again. However the first load would get dry. I unplugged the dryer from the wall, removed teh vent line, removed the service panel tested my wire connects - checked continuity across the Thermal cut out (which was good during my initial troubleshooting) and it showed open. So once again I was hauling clothes to the laundry mat until the part came in. The lesson is I thought a could save a few bucks and not replace that switch - if the heating element goes out just order both switches with the element and save your self time - replace the switches while you have the dryer apart.

Used Instant Repairman to troubleshoot, discovered that no heat was solved by replacing "Thermal Cut-off Kit" and was the problem 55% of the time. Bingo, back in business. The schematic online showed the location of the parts and was fairly easy to replace once all the guards and front panels were removed, 12 screws and 3 spring clips. We are dealing with 220 voltage here, make sure to unplug the dryer and/or shut off the breaker, always double check with curcuit tester or volt meter, stay alive!

I did this wrong and then I did it right. Without testing, I ordered a heating element, but that didn't fix the problem. I went back to PartsSelect and learned how to test the different parts of the dryer. It turned out to be a faulty fuse. Once I had the correct problem to solve, it only took me about 15 minutes.

Tested for continuity. The installation video was very good but did not address which wires went to which terminals. Because of polarity, I was uncertain until an appliance repair man told me it didn't matter.

Used Ohm meter to determine which thermostat was dead, replaced it, and the dryer's working better than it has in years.

Initially we thought it might be the heating element so I used OHM meter to test that and it was fine so decided to check the thermal fuses. Removed one wire on fuse and tested with OHM meter and it confirmed replacement needed. As recommended on line I replaced both fuses. Parts took a little longer than I expected to arrive but once they came in I had dryer repaired and put back together in 15 minutes. Last service call to my house was roughly $90, parts I needed including shipping were $30 so I saved $60 but doing it myself.

When I decided to attempt repairs myself, I took the back panels off to look for obvious problems such as frayed or burned wires, contacts,fuses etc. When I did not see anything obvious, I started to look for stories/suggestions from other DIYers who might have had the same problem to see what they did. The PartSelect website not only had parts but also had numerous customer comments that where very helpful in my decision to buy the Thermal Cut-Off kit. Quite a few other people had the same problem - drum turns, but clothes don't dry. The kit came almost overnight! It was very simple to swap out the old parts and restore the dryer. It took about 45-60 minutes to take the back panels off, remove the dryer heating unit and check things out. Took about 15-30 minutes to replace thermal cut off parts and put dryer back together. It works great. In fact my wife thinks it is drying better now than it had been.

After removing the heating element I checked it for continuity and found it to be not functioning properly. So my first purchase was for the heating element. When this did not resolve the problem is when I checked the Thermal Cut Off Switch and found these switches to be malfunctioning after ordering the kit and installing it my dry now works very well so much so that my wife says it even works better than when we first purchased it.

Initially I figured the dryer heating element had burned out. The exploded views on PartSelect helped me find other parts in the circuit that could also be bad. I unplugged the unit and removed the back cover. I ohmed out the element. It was around 10 ohms resistance. About right for 5600W at 240V. I checked continuity through the heater circuit and found the top thermal fuse to be open. I replaced the bad part. Put everything back together and put the dryer back into service.

Of course, I checked on-line to see how to do this repair first. It was the thermal cut off that needed to be replaced but there was a reason it went out. The vent had come loose behind the dryer. I didnt think that was a big deal, but the dryer sucks all that lint back into the dryer. There was an inch of lint inside the back of the dryer. It got too hot and lucky for me, the thermal cut off shut it down. Otherwise, it would of caught fire. The repair was easy and the dryer works great again. Just be sure you keep the vents connected and clean.

removed the heater element housing from the dryer. then on a table removed and replaced the thermal cut-off kit

Unplugged dryer removed back replaced part put back on plugged in dryer yippee done!

It wound up being the design of the dryer vent out of the house, It went straight up 20 ft. Ran new vent. Works fine now.

looked in the manual, it said if there was no heat but the dryer ran, it could be one of the 2 fuses. Found your site online and read some other people's stories. Ordered the thermal cut-off kit on a Sunday night and it was delivered on the following Tuesday night in a bad storm(fast). It took very little time and effort to replace them, and the dryer (22 yrs old) now works better than it has for a long time. This plan worked way better than I could have imagined.