SE1000T Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Removed front door (2 screws).
Removed front panel (the component that held the glides}. that required removal of 5 screws.
Cleaned it and removed old rivets and ends of glides.
Installed new glides and pop riveted them in.
Re-assembled panel and door and all is well.

Thanks

first i disconect the power , then I
removed the two screws that hold the front door
panel. screws located at bottom of the front door panel.
i removed roller shaft with no. 13 wrench and install new one

Removed the front of the dryer, removed the belt and took out the tub. Replaced the rollers (super easy) and put everything back together. Too easy!!

replaced worn parts

I followed the procedure shown in the video. The only difference was that the model I have is a little newer than the one in the demo. The backing nut on the roller shafts used a 1/2 inch end wrench instead of a 9/16. It went very well and the dryer runs very quiet now. The wife is happy and says she thinks it's quieter than when it was new. Thanks for the demo video it made all the difference.

I first went online for instructions. I then went to home depot to find the part, but they didn't have it. They recommended an appliance store, called them and they were getting ready to close and wouldn't stay open 5 more mins for a customer- so I ordered from you guys. The part came on time and fit perfectly.

replaced roller shafts and rollers on both sides of drum to have new rollers to support drum. Works really well!

Your video made the replacement easy.Parts were sent in record time.

Watched you tube video and followed instructions. Repair went well but the vibration still is present on start up. Considering this is not my line of work I think it was a matter of misdiagnosing the problem. The rollers were worn so probably not a total waste of time and money.

One of the roller wheels was completely broken off. So I followed the video and took the drum out and replaced both roller wheels. Retaining clip pliers helped get the roller wheels off. Greased wheels prior to installing. Also removed the idler wheel on the motor assemply and greased it while I was in there. Also vacuumed all lint out (including motor). Pulled front of exhaust vent off using nut driver to remove screws. Cleaned lint from around the two sensors in that assembly. put everything back together and made sure belt was not down in the recessed groove on the tub. When reassembled, it was incredibly quiet.

Tried to replace drive belt. Squeaking continued. Tried to lubricate rollers. Squeaking improved for a short time. Returned. Replaced rollers. Problem solved.

Removed Front Panel, Filter/Drum Support and tumbler. Noted metal shavings inside cabinet on my right side. Found right front glide strip completely gone and left side deteriorated. Also spun rear drum rollers and noted noise and slight wobble on right side. Removed snap rings, washers and rollers and examined both shafts. No scoring noted so I cleaned them with mineral spirits. Used excellent website tools to rapidly identify parts needed and placed order. Parts arrived second day (w/ standard shipping option). Installed drum support wheels using new washers from kit (discarded old,thinner ones) and reused snap rings. Moving to front support, drilled out old rivets (4) from front glides with 1/4 inch bit. Inserted cork portion first followed by metal piece (I think it was teflon)and installed the rivets. Two observations here. First there were no instructions and, since my old guides were completely gone, I had to guess at the orientation. There is a pertruding tab on both pieces which I oriented to toward the drum. Once it is in its pretty obvious that the orientation is correct but you might ponder it for a minute or so. Second, one of my rivets didn't flatten out completely (probably operator error). I'm pretty sure there would have been plenty of clearance but I drilled it out and replaced it anyway. Bottton line, having a couple of extra rivets on hand might not be a bad idea. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. The biggest issue will be the drive belt. Since I have replaced mine before (twenty five years old and two kids with cloth diapers -- its had alot of use) I draped the belt over the back portion of the drum before I re-install the tumbler unit. Get a helper or a piece of wood to support the tumbler and then reach over the top to position the belt. Now the tough part -- especially if you have big hands like mine. You need to reach in and fish the belt onto the motor pulley and then the tensioner. It may take two or three trys but you'll get it. Then I loosely installed the front drum support. At this point rotate the drum by hand to position the belt and run your hand around the inside of the tumbler to check the felt seal front and back. Tighten the front drum support, reinstall the front panel and you are done.
Note. I chose to do everything from the front. There is a panel in the rear that will give you access to the motor. If you have the room and and can get easy access to the rear panel, it will make installing the belt easier. I don't so I chose to work everythig from the front. Timewise I suspect it is about even.

Took 2 screws out of front panel, set it to the side. Took 4 screws out of next panel. Remove guard over the thermo switch, 2 screws . Remove panel that held blower wheel in place. Took e-ring clip off of shaft, then took needle nose pliers and remove retainer clip, replaced blower wheel.

took dryer apart after viewing video. Found problem to be wheel on tension part holding drive belt in place. Used wd-40 to clean plastic wheel put dryer back together problem solved

Removed the door, then the front panel. Removed the lock plates for the top and tipped it to the rear. Removed the lint vaccuum assembly and the front drum support bracket. Removed belt from drive motor and pulled drum straight out the front. Removed snap ring on support roller shaft and removed old roller. Installed new roller and re-assembled in reverse order. Part fit perfectly and included reasonable instructions.