SE1000T Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Read the instructions included with the parts, removed the 2 screws on the front of the dryer. Removed a couple of wire connections and 4 screws that held the drum in place. Moved the drum enough to have access to the roller supports. I removed the nut from the back of the supports with a 1/2" wrench. Placed the new supports on the old support pins and reinstalled them. Put it all back together. Probably the most difficult task was getting the drive belt back on the drum correctly. I was done in just over 1 hour.

I had to remove the door first. Then the retaining brackets that hold the upper lid on. This also allowed removal of the front cover. After releasing the tension of the drum belt, I removed the drum and replaced the drum roller in suspect. Installation was reverse in order. Don't know why I waited so long to do such a simple job.

With the parts in hand, and after disconneting power and shutting off gas line, I again removed the door, front panel and front tumbler frame to expose the blower wheel. I discovered that the blower wheel was not damaged, but that compressed pieces of lint and other items where stuck to the wheel. I removed the pieces and vacuumed the the whole thing clean, tested it, and the sound stopped. Since I had the unit open, I replaced the front glides by drilling out the old rivets, removing the old glides and then riveting the new glides in place. A very simple procedure overall.

Make sure you keep track of where the different screws go and keep them inside something so you don't lose them. I also used my cell phone to photograph various areas and screws for later reference.

repair was pretty easy, actually took more time removing the door and the front housing that actually changing out the rollers

Received parts within two days of order. thank you

The repair was easy. New felt fit after the tabs were bent out some. Then just tape tabs back into place. Drum turns fine now, but ran it too long with tight drum. Motor is toast.

I had to remove the door, raise top and remove the front panel. After removing the drum and belt it was easy to replace the tension idler and put it all back together.

I simply removed the retaining clip and old bearing and re-installed the new drum roller, washers and retaining clip. Fairly simple really.

Took the dryer front panel off, loosened the drum, but not all the way out. Removed and checked the old rollers and shafts. Then put all the new shafts and rollers in. Put the drum back in place and front panel. Now it drys without a sound and this is a 25+ year old dryer.

Just took it apart and put new one in.

Our dryer started making noise and we ignored it until it became a grinding sound, that's when I knew I had to fix it.

The grinding was the front assembly being worn through by the fact that the glides were gone (worn away) and we continued to use the dryer. I, subsequently, had to replace the front assembly (after trying duct tape and metal epoxy, which didn't work). As there were no glides on the replacement front assembly I didn't know to replace them. They had worn away completely and I didn't realize I needed them.

Well, the grinding started again (right away, acually)and I tore it apart again and that's when I realized that I needed the glides (one on each bottom side) so I got those and put them on. They are called "bearing kits" actually.

They come as a cork piece that goes underneath the "vinyl" piece with the tabs going into the slots and the vinyl piece being riveted into the assembly from the underside of the assembly. I think that, so, that when the drum starts rubbing on something it will hit the rivets instead of the assembly and only damage the rivets. That way you know you need them when you hear a grinding sound and I theorize that will get your attention enough to make you want to replce them. The rivets being put in top down looks right though so "whatever" I suppose.

I also had to take them to work to ask an engineer if the cork gets glued to the vinyl as I saw on one post and he agreed as the cork is porous and would be capable of being greased and retaining the grease, He was wrong of course as so many engineers are today. I think that it is rather obvious that you just slip the tabs into the slots as you're common sense brain tells you to do.

The wife's happy and
I'm superman once again.

A noise in the dryer cabinet started as a chirp, then slowly progressed into a constant squealing noise. After reading reviews on this site, I decided to go ahead and order the roller shafts and drum roller support kits for both sides. The cabinet was relatively simple to disassemble. I removed the door and the front panel, then lifted the top panel to expose the drum. After releasing the tension on the idler pulley I removed the belt and the drum from the cabinet. Once inside, I examined all moving parts and determined that, although the support rollers were worn, they were not the source of the noise, it was the idler roller itself. I order the additional parts that day, and had them the next afternoon. Once back inside the dryer cabinet, the removal and replacement of the idler pulley and assocaited bracket/shaft took less than five minutes. I went ahead and replaced the support rollers as well since I already had them delivered, and that took a total of about 15 minutes. The support rollers are held on the shatfs by c-clips, and having the special pliers built for removing those clips was a big help and time saver. All total this job can be competed by someone with moderate mechanical knowledge and basic tools. It did take some time and patience to get the drum and belt re-installed and routed around the correct route, including the motor polley and new idler pulley. Total time was over one hour, due more so to the time spent cleaing the lint out of the cabinet than actual part replacement.

Followed the instructions per the video on this site. Only part that was a different was removing the front panel. Need to be sure to remove the backet that hold the top on as well.

i took front cover off,then removed front drum support. pulled out dryer basket and replaced wheels and shafts. problem solved!!!

I removed the front panel of the dryer and the assembly that holds the tumbler in place to see what was causing the grinding noise. After seeing some worn parts I went on partselect.com and entered the model number of my dryer. I was provided with diagrams that told me which parts needed to be replaced. I watched the repair video for the Front Glide Kit which was VERY helpful. I ordered 2 front glide kits and a drum felt seal on a Sunday afternoon and paid for overnight shipping. I verfied that my parts shipping first thing on Monday and had them by Tuesday morning. I completed the repairs when I got home from work on Tuesday. There was no repair video for the drum seal but the repair descriptions from the other customers were helpful enough to guide be through. The hardest part of the repair was putting the assembly that holds the tumbler back in place. It took me about 15-20 minutes to get it in place and get the felt seal tucked outside of the tumbler. Once I got it all back together (nice to have to video to make sure I got everything back correctly) I plugged it in and turned it on...ah, a nice quiet dryer again! Thanks PartSelect! It's nice to save money AND repair things myself easily and correctly.

I had the dryer repaired for the same thing by a "professional" 3 years ago. When it started making the same noise again, my son was here and said he thought he could fix it. We ordered the drum support roller kit, which was what was replaced before. After my son took it apart he decided we should also order the roller shaft as it was worn. He also realized the "professional" had installed the wrong drum support roller kit and installed the rollers backwards, which might have something to do with the shaft also wearing. It's working fine now.