MDG7460AWW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Press in the new female latch part with thumbs. Took about two seconds!

Removed the door and machine front.replaced old duct assembly with new ,and reassembled front.

A year or so ago I replaced one drum wheel. The dryer worked fine for months until it started sqeaking again. When I removed the wheels again the shaft was no longer round but half moon shaped. this allowed the drum to drop lower than it's supposed to. consequently the drum ate through the back drum support. I replaced the back drum support and the roller shafts, in addition to two new rollers. It works great now. The more difficult part of the repair was replacing the rear drum support. It is screwed in from the back and requires two people. Everything else I did by myself. The lesson: If you replace the rollers, be sure the roller shafts are not worn. An asymetric shaft eventually causes more parts to wear out.

It was very simple. I removed the fromt cover on the dryer. The heating element was easy to get to and after removing all the attached wires and 4 nuts. The new element was installed, reattached the wire correctly and put the screws back in place. It was extremely easy to complete.

loosened two screws on back of top,lifted top away from front panel.it just lifts off front corners,removed two screws at top corners.lift front panel up and out,this panel supports dryer tub,remove slowly,unplug door switch parts are located left side bottom two screws holding in had to have wife hold drum up to put front panel on

Ohmed coils and both had continuity so I changed radiant heat sensor. No bench test for Radiant Heat sensor. Same problem. Changed both coils and dryer works fine. Weak coils were my problem. I read thru the same issues in Parts Select forum and it said Radiant Heat sensor was problem 25% of the time. With coils having continuity and no ohm value specified for coils I made wrong choice but, I have spare parts and look for another 10 years of life in the dryer. Nice to have this forum to research appliance repair. Very helpful for parts location and installation. Dishwasher is next!

I used a flat screw driver to pop out the old female portion and snapped in the new one. Dryer stays shut. That's it!

I watched the video

By following the directions included with the kit it was fairly clear. The diagrams of the control valve was helpful. It would have helped to tell which screws to remove to access the valve and where the screw was that retained the burner assembly.

I followed the advice posted by other customers. I took the front off the dryer, put the door back in place and ran a cycle. I could see that the igniter was heating properly, but no gas was flowing. Based on what I read I concluded that it was a problem with one of the gas valve coils. It was relatively inexpensive to replace both (and the dry is 10 years old), so I didn't go to the trouble of determining the bad one. I replaced them both. Obviously I unplugged the dryer (no need to turn off gas). There were 2 screws that held the bracket in place which holds the coils. I disconnected the coils, removed the bracket screws, replaced the coils, reattached the bracket screws and reconnected the coils. I then reattached the front plate to the dryer. It was very easy and took about 20 minutes and I had never worked on a dryer before.

After taking one last look through the access port prior to ripping the back off the dryer in order to access the heat exchanger fuse, I noticed I had inadvertantly un-plugged the gas solenoid. I reapplied the plugs to the solenoid and, voila, I had flame.

I am thankful to know I have a source in case I encounter other appliance problems, though. This one was a no-brainer but the next one might be more difficult. Thank you.

Same as others.
1. Unplug dryer from power source
2. Use nut driver to remove two front screws at bottom of dryer
3. Disconnect cable connected to Secondary Coil (this is the coil towards the rear of the dryer)
4. Use angled phillips screw driver to loosen screws holding cap on top of the two coils. (Angled tool not required but seemed easiest to me)
5. Slide top cap back towards lock screw to allow coil to be lifted out
6. Remove and replace secondary coil
7. Replace cap, tighten screws to lock in place, reconnect cable to coil
8. Restore power to dryer, test and confirm gas flame stays lit
9. Replace lower front panel on unit

PartsSelect a great resource to use for home repairs like these. My first time using site and doing this type of work, now PartsSelect my first source to go to on such items.

Watch the video. Very, very easy

Removed four philips screws, two holding door on and two on opposite side of door in order to remove front cover. Then removed two 5/16 screws holding clips that lock the top cover down. Then the top cover hinges up with open access to the drum. The baffles are held into place with two #10 x 1 1/4" screws with 5/16" head each. These had pulled through the drum. Installed new baffles (do NOT come with screws / you'll have to buy some). Had to put small washers (also had to buy) on the screws to hold it onto the drum since the other screw heads pulled through the drum. Closed lid, installed retaining clips, installed door onto frame, installed front cover around door, then screwed door hinges into front cover and screws to other side. Took about as long to write these directions as it did to actually do the work... EASY job!!

First I put the square female end iof the door catch kit nto the square hole as snug as I could. Then I gently pushed the door against the piece until I heard it click in to place. That's it!! Sooooo simple--